GI.SS Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 I'm installing my Arp head studs what is the correct way of installing the head studs without taking the head off and lube? Oil? Sequence? Also rod bolts, same questions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) I think you have to replace the Head gaskets when replacing the factory head bolt's. you will need to remove the heads to replace the head gaskets. I have always replaced head gaskets. once head gaskets are torqued down and heated up they are not reusable after you remove the head bolts. as for the rod bolts there is a spacer deal in the bottom of the rod cap you have to remove before the new ARP rod bolt will fit. when I have removed all my factory rod bolts i have had to tap the rod bolt out of the bottom of the cap. it has a little shank deal that is pressed into the bottom of the cap. you cant just pull the rod bolt out. there is a little spacer deal that holds the rod bolt into the rod cap. you will need to get alittle punch to get your factory rod bolt out. If you look at the top of your ARP bolt where the head is you will notice it has a tapered part right before the head of the bolt. your factory rod bolt does not have that but instead uses a little shank to center up the rod bolt when going into the cap. the rods are whats called a cracked rod and must go back the same way they came off same side and all you CAN NOT 180 the rod cap it must go on just how it came off that is very important. Its kind of hard to explain. Ill try taking some pictures to show you what I'm talking about, Are you doing all this with the motor still installed in the house. Heres a picture of a factory rod bolt I just took out. you can see the little collar/ sleeve deal thats on the bolt. that little sleeve is pushed into he bottom of the rod cap. once you unbolt the rod bolt you will notice you cannot just pull the bolt out that because the little sleeve/ collar deal is lightly pressed into the bottom of the cap. you can just take a small punch and tap on the head of the bolt and it should pop right out with the bolt and sleeve together it doesnt take much force at all. heres a picture of the factory bolt with the sleeve on it and a picture of the ARP rod bolt. you can see on the ARP rod bolt its a hair bigger at the top of the bolt towards the head. Edited January 2, 2014 by shawnss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 You can replace one head stud at a time so you dont have to pull the heads. Use a little dab of oil on the threads for lubrication. As long as you use the right torque and sequence you will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 You can replace one head stud at a time so you dont have to pull the heads. Use a little dab of oil on the threads for lubrication. As long as you use the right torque and sequence you will be fine. Hmm wow crazy never heard of that. i have always just replaced them. But I'm normally pulling the pistons and rod's out and doing a complete rebuild so the heads come off anyways. Heck I once torqued down a set of new head gaskets and didn't even run the motor and had to take a head back off. i didn't even risk running that gasket and just bought new. nice to know you can do a head bolt swap with replacing the gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yea i remember reading someone did it without taking the head off. I guess on the head studs one at a time. Same sequence 30-50-70? And rod bolts one at a time marking the cap as to not mix it up. Making sure not to leave the spacer inside the cap. What is the tq specs on the rod bolts and what sequence? Also I only have a tiny bit of arp assembly lube left. I have some Lucas oil assembly lube, would that be adequate on either application. It's a semi authentic and contains zinc, moly, and all that good crap... Synthetic* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Correct, the same torque and bolt sequence as if the heads were going on. As long as you follow that the heads dont have to come off. Here are the torque specs for the LQ9. Connecting Rod Bolts - First Design (First Pass) 15 lb ftConnecting Rod Bolts - First Design (Final Pass) 60 degreesConnecting Rod Bolts - Second Design (First Pass) 15 lb ftConnecting Rod Bolts - Second Design (Final Pass) 75 degrees I dont think there is a sequence for rod bolts. This came off of a FAQ for rod bolts. Just a FYI and safety. ll the way down in the hole. Torque the bolt to the recommended value. Then, loosen the bolt. Torque to the recommended value once again. Break the bolt loose one last time, and finally torque it to the recommended value and leave it alone. This process wears down any small burrs on the threads and seating surface of the bolt and rod, ensuring the most consistant final torque. If you are going to use a stretch gauge, lube the bolt up with ARP Moly assembly lube and thread it into the rod.Make sure your crankshaft is in a position where you can phsyically put the gauge on the bolt. The bolt has a dimple in each end that allows the gauge to stay centered and in place. Put a long wrench on the bolt, and put the gauge in place, zeroing the dial. Begin to tighten the bolt until it has reached its recommended stretch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeannyCash Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hey Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 What's up brotha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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