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Looking for advice from all, still new here so bare with me on this one. Water pump gaskets leaking so I'm planning the attack on a new water pump. Since I'm in hot ole Arizona I need my coolant system solid. I don't believe in if it ain't broke don't fix it. I'm a preventative maintenance and a do it right the first time kind of guy. Since I'm gonna do the water pump I'm gonna replace every hose in the system that touches coolant since I'm there with coolant drained and being that I don't want to revisit later for a bad hose, upgrade the belts to the gator backs, both belt tensioners, 160 thermostat and thermostat housing. My little DEVILIZED RED DRAGON has 83,000 miles on the clock so I figured do it all and be good for another 83,000. Advice I'm looking for is lean torwards OEM parts or cut corners and do aftermarket parts?Replace just the pump, thermostat and belts or do it all? Go Acdelco on the pump with a one year warranty or take a chance on lifetime warranty on aftermarket and take a chance a replacing it every six months? You guys know it best as some might have been there done that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated so thanks in advance.

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Looking for advice from all, still new here so bare with me on this one. Water pump gaskets leaking so I'm planning the attack on a new water pump. Since I'm in hot ole Arizona I need my coolant system solid. I don't believe in if it ain't broke don't fix it. I'm a preventative maintenance and a do it right the first time kind of guy. Since I'm gonna do the water pump I'm gonna replace every hose in the system that touches coolant since I'm there with coolant drained and being that I don't want to revisit later for a bad hose, upgrade the belts to the gator backs, both belt tensioners, 160 thermostat and thermostat housing. My little DEVILIZED RED DRAGON has 83,000 miles on the clock so I figured do it all and be good for another 83,000. Advice I'm looking for is lean torwards OEM parts or cut corners and do aftermarket parts?Replace just the pump, thermostat and belts or do it all? Go Acdelco on the pump with a one year warranty or take a chance on lifetime warranty on aftermarket and take a chance a replacing it every six months? You guys know it best as some might have been there done that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated so thanks in advance.

 

 

Honestly, Replacing the pump when the gasket is only leaking is wasting money. Thats just me. Same goes for all the hoses etc. The pump could live for another 100K. I had my old SSS that had 142K on it and never had to replace a hose, water pump etc. I just kept up on fluid changes, flushes etc. Im not going to tell how to spend your money.

 

To do the job right and flush all the old coolant out, there are a few steps you didnt mention. Those being once the coolant is drained after the lower hose is pulled. Re fill the system with straight water run the truck for a minute or so and re drain to get the coolant out of the block. Do this until clear water runs out. Then refill with coolant water mixture.

 

Second while your worried about hoses etc, I would suggest back flushing the heater core to remove any scale and water deposits, you will be amazed at what comes out. Using a air compressor works well to force all the crap out. I do this and use CLR and let it soak for about 20 minutes before I flush. Then just use water and flush until clean water comes out.

 

As far as buying a OEM pump and paying out the butt, Buying one that has a lifetime warranty, theres nothing wrong with those. I myself would rather do that. Buying a rebuilt pump doesntmean you wil be doing the job again in a few months. The same thing can happen with a brand new pump...

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Replacing the pump when changing the gaskets isn't necessary, but for me would be piece of mind due to age and having close to 100k. Keep in mind that not all aftermarket pumps are created equal as some members here have found out the hard way. Some aftermarket onesw in fact are real pieces of crap. Spending the extra money on the AC Delco pump again to me is just piece of mind...

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Blown346

Thanks a lot for all the great info on the flushing of the block and the back wash on the heater core as that's a great idea. When it comes to the money spent on this project. I don't want to spend anymore than I have to as maintenance money takes away from mod money the way I see it. But with I have a hard time justifying doing what it takes to change just the gaskets with 83k on the clock. I will agree with you on the hoses, I'm gonna inspect the day lights out of them the best I can to stop myself from wasting money. When it comes to the pump and money spent there the acdelco is about 85 bucks and American. Most aftermarket are about 111 bucks for lifetime non American. I will always try to support the country I live in unless the part I'm buying is known for not being good quality. Also on the flush advice I have read some people are switching to the green coolant instead of dexcool for a few reasons. Should I do the same? I think I'm perfectly fine with dexcool but figured I would ask.

Fireman31

I think your pretty close to reading my mind. I also figured with my luck I would change just the gaskets and when summer hits here quite soon at about 110-120 outside my pump would then take a dive. Then less work I have to do in the summer in my hot a$$ garage the better. Been in AZ only a few years now and I tell myself when it comes to my fleet of cars. Do all the stuff you need to do before summer unless you can get it done in less than Two hours. Acdelco pump is cheaper than aftermarket due to carrying a one year vs lifetime. I have learned in the past and feel better since you pointed it out that you never know what your gonna get. With that being said I'm gonna stick with acdelco FTW unless somebody chimes in here stating that pump is $hit.

 

 

I thank you two for the response as I was worried I wouldn't get any so thanks again for all the time and energy

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You might also wanna check out Evans waterless coolant they claim it doesn't boil till close to 400 degree's and is a lifetime coolant it last forever without deposit buildup and doesn't expand so you can feel free to pop your radiator cap off at any temp.

Also like the CLR flush that stuff works wonders

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Aldofashow

Damn that Evans $hit is unreal:) Looks like the way to go but damn. 44 bucks a gallon all the way to 113 a gallon ouch. Not sure how many gallons for a complete flush but I would imagine it could be worth it. I am indeed gonna do the CLR flush after I do some research on it. I never buy what people sell unless I do some research on my own but seems like a great idea. Thanks for your advice on the Evans stuff gonna see if I can find it cheaper somewhere.

Thanks again

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My dexcool has started to turn brown which lead me to find lots of complaints of ( deathcool ) and I didn't wanna go green so after lots of searching I found Evans waterless coolant.

I had planned on using CLR to flush and start the swap.

I guess its a big deal to get all the water out before pouring in the Evans so in a couple weeks ill see first hand how much of a pain in the ass it will be.

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WARNING to all

CLR flushing not recommended.

Not for use on Copper, Brass or Aluminum. Any sensors such as temp sensor will be affected. I wouldn't be willing to take that chance of doing more bad than good. It sounded really good but gonna look into other alternatives. Maybe another flush liquid or I was thinking DI water? Just figured I would share what I found.

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I looked on some other forums as well as google searches for CLR radiator flush. It's also on the bottle about the warnings. Never used it so not sure what the damage would be short term or long term but that's not a chance I'm willing to take. I'm actual gonna just pull the trigger with Evans. Gonna flush with DI water, pull the block plug to flush all water out them fill up with Evans coolant. The price isn't bad based on what our systems hold. Gonna buy Three gallons and that would be more than enough I'm hoping.

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Yeah I seen that the CLR has acid in it seems like more of a last resort on heater core and radiator only mines not clogged just turning brown i might just use the Evans flush I'm gonna ask them when I order the coolant and see what they advise

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If you go on YouTube check out a video how to unclog a heater core by ericthecarguy he blast himself in the face with antifreeze by hooking an air hose to the heater core line its hilarious but worked.

 

It looks like he used CLR on just the heater core and not the engine as a last resort but covered it up and didn't wanna say that's what he used but you can tell what it was if you've seen the CLR bottle before.

 

Evans has a flush that prepares the system for there coolant if there isn't any clogs in the system that's all that should be needed to flush out and prepare for there waterless coolant.

 

I'm thinking when I do it I will back flush the heater core just to flush out any crap that might be hiding in there since I bought it in 2006 and help perform at its best for next winter.

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As far as using CLR, I have done so many times on my own vehicles over the years and never had a issue. The key is to not let the CLR dwell in the system long enough for it to eat into anything. Buy flushing the system with water you will flush out all the CLR which will eliminate damage. There are no sensors in the heater core. Im not going to give out advice with something I havent used on my own personal vehicles. To each there own. From the crap I have seen not come out of heater cores, and after using CLR and seeing the crap come out, I will continue to use it.

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Yeah I used it on a 1985 cr250 ice bike radiator that was clogged solid filled it with CLR let it sit for a day then shook the hell out of it flushed with water and worked great.

 

I never tryed it on a car with sensors so i couldn't say it wouldnt harm them but for radiators it works great and that thing is still in use 7 years later so it does work.

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