WantaSSS Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Alright guys/ gals Ill let you know you all are going to have another turbo in the mix... Anyway I have a broken bolt in my head. Drivers rear of course. Have tried to weld it several times but cant get it to stick . The bolt is recessed in about a 1/16th. I am going to pull the head. Truck has almost 100k My questions to you all - 1) Pull the head remove broken bolt and put back the head ? 1) pull both heads and get some 823's(have an intake already) Now.. initially I was just going to pull and put it back, but then I thought if I go thru all that work to pull one why not pull both and upgrade? It will be more expensive up front, but was planning on changing heads down the road, so I thought why do it twice and twice the gaskets and what not. My problem is I didnt really plan for spending this much right away. To do the 823's I will need offset rockers gaskets pushrods lifters( the reason I say that is because it doesnt make sense to put stock 100k mi stuff back in. ) then I might as well do a cam while I have it all apart? Oh man.. thats why I am asking for some opinions... Thanks Edited April 14, 2014 by wantaSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyrick562 Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Go big or go home... Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantaSSS Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 ha ha a good but expensive motto. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Why not just pull both heads and go through them? Depending on the turbo I'd see which other heads best suit it and the power it makes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Do both might as well, youll regret it later down the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 What are your goals? How big of a cam? Boost? I say pull the head, and put it back on if you can't afford to do what you want to the right way now. Put a stock head gasket back on and get a set of ls9's for the actual head swap. A proper cam swap is going to cost you above 1k after springs, cam, and new lifters and everything else. Especially when you pul the front cover and having 100k on it, the timing set will need to be replaced. Then you might as well put in the high volume pump to supply the oil to the turbo. It adds up quick sometimes. Pile up the parts and then do your install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powell Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 What are your goals? How big of a cam? Boost? I say pull the head, and put it back on if you can't afford to do what you want to the right way now. Put a stock head gasket back on and get a set of ls9's for the actual head swap. A proper cam swap is going to cost you above 1k after springs, cam, and new lifters and everything else. Especially when you pul the front cover and having 100k on it, the timing set will need to be replaced. Then you might as well put in the high volume pump to supply the oil to the turbo. It adds up quick sometimes. Pile up the parts and then do your install. Words of wisdom. I know nothing about head swaps, but I do know that a good plan will save you a lot of time and money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantaSSS Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 goals are low 12's for sure but the truck will rarely see if ever see the track.(havent been there yet). as far as cam I was looking at tick's stage 1 or 2 turbo cam. Starting off at 7 psi and maybe down the road bump to 10 or so. Nothing too crazy. but yeah I agree it adds up fast. Question- will I be able to run the same or lower boost and achieve the same/more power if the heads flow better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Question- will I be able to run the same or lower boost and achieve the same/more power if the heads flow better? Low 12's are easy with a 6.0 and a turbo. I did it with a stock cam and stock heads. On your head question, I'm not very good at explaining things but if you put a large intake runner head onto a n/a motor with out changing the compression or adding forced induction the motors performance would be dramatically decreased because there would be no way to cram the extra air into the motor. Now if you add larger runners and a turbo, it makes it easier to get the air into the motor but you would see a drop in psi simply because it would take more air to fill the new larger cavity to the combustion area. But you can now cram more cfm into the combustion area with the same amount of psi. Maybe someone can explain it better than me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantaSSS Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) I understand what youre saying. So if I run the same psi with larger intake cfm heads then I should make more or worst case the same power.But not necessarly on N/A because you need a larger bore to more or less help suck in the air. thats where the cam/stall comes in for N/A .what was your best on a stock 6.0 and what psi? Thanks Edited April 15, 2014 by wantaSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtoyz97 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I'm with Aksss I would save up the money or get the parts over time and once you have them all then do it. From my experience I can tell you that you will want to put the boost to it to make up for the extra flow it will do with the heads and cam. And remember not to go to big on the exhaust for a turbo. When I built my LTx motor for my trans am I was doing 12 psi stock motor (9.0 cr) And then when I did my 383 10:1 cr with TPIS/ AFR heads and 224/230 114+4 cam I lost 10 psi........ yeah little disappointed that is was 2 psi (figured I loose some, thougth i'd be at 7-8 psi) Just comes to show that when the engine can flow better that it takes more air to make the same amount of boost. But it's gonna be way more powerful when I get it there. I had a procharger 600b on it and at 12 psi I was 2.8 charger pulley and crank pulley at 7.5 spinning it at 47k and when I get the crank pulley made it will be 8.5 and max it out at 62k and should be at 8-9 psi if I calculated it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantaSSS Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 wow ok good to know I didnt realize it would drop that much. Yeah I am now thinking put the head back. I was looking into all the parts I would need and I am staring at a 2k bill. Thats everything of course heads cam lifters pushrods springs chain oil pump and gaskets not to mention xlink and tb. Oh and thats stock L92's ha . I think I am going to pull the reins back a bit. Can I change valve seals with the heads on the truck? compressed air through the spark plug holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) . And remember not to go to big on the exhaust for a turbo. When I built my LTx motor for my trans am I was doing 12 psi stock motor (9.0 cr) And then when I did my 383 10:1 cr with TPIS/ AFR heads and 224/230 114+4 cam I lost 10 psi........ yeah little disappointed that is was 2 psi (figured I loose some, thougth i'd be at 7-8 psi) I'm a little confused on the small exhaust statement? One of the biggest battles with a turbo is exhaust back pressure. I was running a turbo with a 3" outlet turbine. My downpipe of the turbo had a 3" flange and then went straight to a 3.5" downpipe. Then at the end of the downpipe I went straight to a 4" exhaust all the way back with an Mbrp muffler off a diesel. I had no back pressure against my turbo. Your exhaust housing is mainly what controls the spool time, this and heat. I feel this is what took my truck so far on a cheap turbo with a 64mm exhaust side. On the losing boost deal. This is exactly true. More so with a supercharger. With a turbo, your boost is regulated by a wastegate and the wastegate will just make the turbo work harder to make more pressure to get back up to whatever boost the wastegate is set at. I'm not saying you won't be out of the turbos efficient area, but it recovers easier than a supercharger where you would just have to pulley down a size to get the same results. what was your best on a stock 6.0 and what psi? ThanksSo the only thing that I had changed on my motor was the pistons. I had put in diamond 15cc dished pistons. This lowered my static compression to 8.8:1. I had the stock heads with cometic head gaskets and I had head studs put in when the motor went back together. I also had the stock cam. My tranny had the usual upgrades and then I had a 3k multi-disk precision industries converter. The best I did was a 12.24 @ 112. And this was leaving the line breaking all 4 tires loose. Edited April 16, 2014 by Aksss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WantaSSS Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 So the only thing that I had changed on my motor was the pistons. I had put in diamond 15cc dished pistons. This lowered my static compression to 8.8:1. I had the stock heads with cometic head gaskets and I had head studs put in when the motor went back together. I also had the stock cam. My tranny had the usual upgrades and then I had a 3k multi-disk precision industries converter. The best I did was a 12.24 @ 112. And this was leaving the line breaking all 4 tires loose. Nice thats exactly what I needed to hear. Breaking all 4 loose! What psi was that? I have a 2800 multi PI converter myself and FLT 6 so hopefully good for a bit there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Nice thats exactly what I needed to hear. Breaking all 4 loose! What psi was that? I have a 2800 multi PI converter myself and FLT 6 so hopefully good for a bit there. Sorry, forgot that. I have an electronic boost controller also. I have it set at 7psi for normal street driving. Then when I turn on the controller, it runs up to what I have it set at. Which is 13psi. It also turns on my methanol system. So I spray methanol at anything above 7psi for the octane rating and safety. It has worked well for me. It just has to be tuned well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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