poopnewton Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I'm going to be putting a turbo on my truck over the next couple of months and was wondering at what horsepower levels will the MAF tune start holding me back. If my truck wasn't my daily driver I'd just get a SD tune and be done with it, but from what I've read it seems like most people recommend a tune using a MAF sensor for daily drivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 I had a factory MAF with my 719 RWHP vette with no issues, other than blowing the MAF into pieces several times under boost.lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 (edited) I have driven my turbo'd truck in Alaska for the last 4 years, year round with a 2bar sd tune. Never had a problem. Ran great. It is all in the quality and time spent on the tune. Edited May 2, 2014 by Aksss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 If you blew a maf into pieces you are doing something wrong. I've put over 1000RWHP of air through them. When it comes to the question at hand you are ok to around 450RWHP and at around 500RWHP you have made it to the limit. Somewhere past 10k hz the maf reading becomes very inconsistant and fueling will not be as consistant as a result. Once you get past 67lb/min level you have will have very inconsistant fueling since the pcm is at it's limit of seeing incoming airflow on the maf side. There is nothing wrong with a 2 bar tune if it is done properly. If you have a good set of injectors, proper fuel pressure, and a proper tuner you will have absolutely no problem running in SD mode. The advantage in SD mode with a boosted vehicle is that it allows the pcm to see boost. Without this the pcm will never see any boost and in the case of exceeding the 67.725lb/min number the pcm will never know more airflow is coming in without it. In 2 bar mode you will be able to chose the exact desired afr for the boost and rpm level and actually allow the pcm to calculate airflow numbers well past the maf's limit. To give you an idea on drivability I have my Tahoe tuned in SD 1 bar mode and it has been everywhere that people would tell you is a problem. I have had it from single digit weather to 120 degree weather and from below see level to over 11000ft altitude as well as pulling a trailer from Michigan to LV Nevada, Vegas to Phoenix, and back to Vegas all through the mountains. With proper tuning work speed density will run and drive just fine. You must choose a good injector and have good consistant fuel pressure as well. I would say I've done over 1000 or so cars and trucks in SD mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 What could I have done wrong besides hit the gas? The air being forced thru the maf is what seperated it in two pieces where it was glued together. Not my fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopnewton Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 If you blew a maf into pieces you are doing something wrong. I've put over 1000RWHP of air through them. When it comes to the question at hand you are ok to around 450RWHP and at around 500RWHP you have made it to the limit. Somewhere past 10k hz the maf reading becomes very inconsistant and fueling will not be as consistant as a result. Once you get past 67lb/min level you have will have very inconsistant fueling since the pcm is at it's limit of seeing incoming airflow on the maf side. There is nothing wrong with a 2 bar tune if it is done properly. If you have a good set of injectors, proper fuel pressure, and a proper tuner you will have absolutely no problem running in SD mode. The advantage in SD mode with a boosted vehicle is that it allows the pcm to see boost. Without this the pcm will never see any boost and in the case of exceeding the 67.725lb/min number the pcm will never know more airflow is coming in without it. In 2 bar mode you will be able to chose the exact desired afr for the boost and rpm level and actually allow the pcm to calculate airflow numbers well past the maf's limit. To give you an idea on drivability I have my Tahoe tuned in SD 1 bar mode and it has been everywhere that people would tell you is a problem. I have had it from single digit weather to 120 degree weather and from below see level to over 11000ft altitude as well as pulling a trailer from Michigan to LV Nevada, Vegas to Phoenix, and back to Vegas all through the mountains. With proper tuning work speed density will run and drive just fine. You must choose a good injector and have good consistant fuel pressure as well. I would say I've done over 1000 or so cars and trucks in SD mode. I don't think 500rwhp is going to be hard at all to achieve with the build I'm doing. Even with 100% stock short block it sounds to me like a SD tune is going to be the way to go for me if I plan on getting the most out of my combo. So far my build is going to look like this: Stage 5 Trick turbo kit upgraded to 4" DP and his 4" race IC Billet wheel S476 turbo Advanced Inductions CNC ported 317 heads Edelbrock Pro Flow intake with LS3 throttle body Eboost2 boost controller ISKY 218 cam Things I'm still debating on are but pretty sure I'm going to do are: Meth injection Changing to a return style fuel system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I am going to throw some things at you. Just wondering. What are you doing to the short block? Everything else looks good, but why the ls3 throttle body. I thought the ls2 silver blade was the one that people have less problems with? Should be a cool build! I'm currently waiting on my short block from the machine shop. Then I can finish assembling it. Also waiting on my s480 and hot pipes from kbracing. They are still about 4 more weeks out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poopnewton Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 I I am going to throw some things at you. Just wondering. What are you doing to the short block?Everything else looks good, but why the ls3 throttle body. I thought the ls2 silver blade was the one that people have less problems with?Should be a cool build! I'm currently waiting on my short block from the machine shop. Then I can finish assembling it. Also waiting on my s480 and hot pipes from kbracing. They are still about 4 more weeks out. I wasn't planning on doing anything to the short block this was supposed to be a budget build for a daily driver but half the stuff I'm doing is happening only because I keep on saying to myself "if I'm gonna do this I might as well do that while it's apart". The funny thing is the last few days I've been wondering if should throw some forged pistons and better rods in the short block also while I'm at it. The problem is if I do that then I'll be wanting a T6 turbo setup instead of a T4 and it will just never end lol. As for the LS3 TB, I saw one pretty cheap online so I jumped on it. I thought as long as I used a X-link I'd be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 Lol! That's how my cam and intake swap turned into an entire rebuild/stroker/new turbo setup! Haha. It just snowballs. I kept a saying the same thing. Why wouldn't I just do this when I'm in here. Then I won't have to do it later. Haha. I'm pretty sure that with the trick hot pipes, you can fit the t4 converted s480. That's what I will be running. You can get some other turbos to make big power on a standard t4 anyways. Turbonetics makes a t76/75. That would probably be good up to around 750-800hp depending on the setup. The forged pistons and rods would be definitely beneficial. I found out that Zippy actually can get a pretty good price on engine parts. I would check with him before you buy anywhere else. But no matter what. Your budget is the most important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 Good question... I have no idea what you did wrong, but if it happened several times as you said I'd say you have a problem. I've never seen or heard of a maf coming apart from airflow or boost including setups pushing well over 1000rwhp. What could I have done wrong besides hit the gas? The air being forced thru the maf is what seperated it in two pieces where it was glued together. Not my fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted May 5, 2014 Report Share Posted May 5, 2014 I dont see how I did anything wrong as The maf just sits there and meters air. It was fine for years and one day boom, popped the hood and the maf was in two pieces. Replaced it, drove the car hard and again the same thing, replaced it again and it was fine good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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