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DrLove38

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My water pump has been leaking off and on the last few weeks. I'm going to replace it along with belts and hoses.

I'm needing a little advice on this heater hose conglomeration. It looks like I need to buy the assembly that is all put together with couplers that go to the heater core and tank. The other hose looks like old school with clamps.

Is their a tool to unscrew these connectors or do they unscrew?

I also saw that you could maybe build these setups by buying the connectors separate.

I have noticed the built piece OEM can run as high as 50 to 70 bucks.

Any other tips on this project would be appreciated as well.

Thanks

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Leave that stuff together. Just pull the two heater hoses off and two rad hoses. Leave the old stuff unless it's gone. Use a large pair of channel locks. I would get a therm maybe a 160 if your tuning it. I would get a name brand water pump a/c delco gates ect. My bolts were toast. Victim of a dealer trip many years ago and I can only imagine the impact wrench force used.

 

Tool is not needed but http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cable-operated-hose-clamp-pliers/p-00947390000P if you can't manage channel lock pliers and twisting a hose.

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Prw high flow pump with oem hoses FTW

 

Why would he spend the money for a high flow pump? Just wasting money

 

Channel lock pliers will pry the clamps open enough to slide them down the hoses. Then take a pick and slide it between the nipple or neck that the hose is on and run the pick around it to loosen it off. Then slide the hose off. Makes it easier than trying to pull the hose off as they tend to stick pretty well after being on there awhile.

 

If that makes sense

 

Also if you are replacing the thermostat (which I would) make sure if you go with a cooler stat you should tune the PCM for this also. The engine controls read coolant temp and make adjustments according to temp.

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Channel lock pliers will pry the clamps open enough to slide them down the hoses. Then take a pick and slide it between the nipple or neck that the hose is on and run the pick around it to loosen it off. Then slide the hose off. Makes it easier than trying to pull the hose off as they tend to stick pretty well after being on there awhile.

 

If that makes sense

 

Also if you are replacing the thermostat (which I would) make sure if you go with a cooler stat you should tune the PCM for this also. The engine controls read coolant temp and make adjustments according to temp.

What Brian said.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Why because it helps cooling and its not that much more then a replacement I think I paid 240 for mine.

 

Got any reasons why a high flow pump wouldn't help

 

Only need one reason.....because a factory one cools just as good as this so called "high flow" one you are talking about. If you want to run a cooler temp, get a colder stat and adjust the tune for it.

 

Another reason why this site has gone down......to many on here trying to reinvent the wheel. Its a cooling system for a stock engine in a 1/2 ton truck, not Dale Jr's race car.

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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Ok Mr high and mighty I also have a slp 160 stat and the tune is adjusted and I see cooler temps on both engine and trans so better luck next time on trying to be a dick tryed tested and proven.

 

If you haven't used one of these high flow pumps then you shouldn't give bad tech advise on a pump you've never even used and know nothing about

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I dont have to have used one of those things to know its a waste. Theres no point for what hes trying to do other than to stand in a corner and beat off cause hes got some stupid high flow pump on a stock truck.

 

Ever wonder what the name above my avatar is?

Edited by 2BFAST (see edit history)
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Actually on hot days and when towing the high flow pump helps a lot even on a stock engine but you wouldn't know that cause you never had one so you are the one that don't get it keep trying to be a dick I'm still waiting for a valid argument from you

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