Header Brand Preferences

[Normandy]

Well I know our trucks don't have true 2.5" duals it's more like 2.75" piping (I have measured it). As far as cats I'm using Kooks High Flow cats sourced from a F-Body LS car which work great for me.

Mind if i ask what your mods are and what your running in the 1/4?

[BLOWN SS/T]

My phone died so my post erased, so I'll try writing this again.

 

Has anyone ever done a dyno comparison on these trucks for a 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8 to prove the loss of torque from the 1/8" difference in the primary. I've only seen one comparison and that was an ls powered car (might of been a corvette), and there was a loss of hp from switching to the 1 7/8". But the 1 3/4 was a true long tube design and the 1 7/8 was I believe an equal length. And you could clearly tell from the design that it was going to lose power. And I've seen a lot of people quote that dyno comparison when clearly it wasn't a fair one.

 

The lost of torque if even there is any I would imagine would be minimal and not worth stressing over as compared to what the gains in hp would be. Most of my runs and where I wanna see my gains are in the wot passes, so I wouldn't even notice the loss of torque, my converter would get me into the higher rpms anyways.

 

I'm currently running a 1 3/4" LT header and I should be receiving my new 1 7/8 LT's today. It's the exact same design so I'll leave exhaust and everything else the same and I'll be testing this out at the track. I doubt there will be a 3 tenth loss in the 1/4, and I'm running stock heads and cam. I'll try and make similar comparison as far as the 60's and DA, not go off my personal best. If I felt there was a chance of lost ET I would not be changing the exhaust setup at all.

 

To the OP either of the 2 brands are great quality pieces. If I was doing kooks I'd run the f body headers, and they would be larger then the 2 mentioned sizes, but for budget and hp to dollar reasons I'm gonna run the 1 7/8 but that's irrelevant to the question lol

 

Good luck and you'll be happy with either one

Edited August 6, 2014 by BLOWN SS/T (see edit history)

[Tyson1972]

As of right now all I have done is a K&N CAI, Taylor 409 plug wires, NGK TR55's, 2 1/2" true dual exhaust with dual flowbastard 40's (they were on it when I bought it), MAS screen removed, RPM of Garner NC tune & Texas Speed and Performance 1 7/8" F-Body LT's with Kooks High Flow cats sourced from a 2000 F-Body. Other then these mods it is completely stock. I have ran a best of 14.89@91MPH in the 1/4. Now mind you my weight is 350lbs, my truck is over 5250 pounds w/ everything in it (I mean jumper cable bag with tools, tow ropes, small air compressor, buster seat for my son, carseat for my daughter, spare tire, tailgate not removed, rumber bed mat, full tank of gas & countless other weight factors. I wanted to know what it would run in full street weight. I didn't change wheels and tire, I still run the stock style Goodyear tires. So with me driving it at the track it's weight is around if not over 5600lbs. I last ran the truck at the track on July, 19th 2013 GI.06SS (Steve) was there while I ran my truck. I couldnt get it to do better then a 2.21 60ft time no matter what I tried. I did trying dropping the tire pressure to around 17-20 PSI with no help at all in my 60ft. My third pass was different then all the other 10+ passes I made that night I had ran in the right lane all night and it was working great for me. I came out of the hole at around 800-900 RPM's and floored it off of a foot brake. It spun like crazy and I couldnt peddle it for anything. I tried to replacate that pass but it wouldnt do it after that, I really dont know what happened there on that pass. I do plan on building a L92 for the truck in the next year or two. From there I'm going to install a Porcharger onto the L92. The next mod will be to finish the 3" true dual exhaust with Pro Street 6000 Spintech mufflers all the way out back to keep down on the drone if not eliminating it. I'm also installing a 40K trucool trans cooler in the very near future. From there I will be having a 4L65 level 5-6 built w/ a 3200 stall triple disk converter.

[Blown 346]

You can get a deal if you ask, you ave to think and bring up the cost of what they pay for them and what they charge. Then it makes it look like you did your research and know whats going on. I already had them on the truck when I bought it, There is a big difference in power compared to my buddies that is stock. His is slow, my wifes holds you in the seat. If you tune it then you will gt even larger gains in HP and torque. They main thing people usually do is the headers a cold air intake, electric fan conversion and a rune. Its night and day difference. Ill take a video of how my wifes sounds tomorrow so give youa idea of sound with a magnaflow muffler as well.

Heres the video.

 

http://vid18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/plyboy1917/IMG_2796_zps3fd65317.mp4

[Downeast Johnny]

My phone died so my post erased, so I'll try writing this again.

 

Has anyone ever done a dyno comparison on these trucks for a 1 3/4 vs 1 7/8 to prove the loss of torque from the 1/8" difference in the primary. I've only seen one comparison and that was an ls powered car (might of been a corvette), and there was a loss of hp from switching to the 1 7/8". But the 1 3/4 was a true long tube design and the 1 7/8 was I believe an equal length. And you could clearly tell from the design that it was going to lose power. And I've seen a lot of people quote that dyno comparison when clearly it wasn't a fair one.

 

The lost of torque if even there is any I would imagine would be minimal and not worth stressing over as compared to what the gains in hp would be. Most of my runs and where I wanna see my gains are in the wot passes, so I wouldn't even notice the loss of torque, my converter would get me into the higher rpms anyways.

 

I'm currently running a 1 3/4" LT header and I should be receiving my new 1 7/8 LT's today. It's the exact same design so I'll leave exhaust and everything else the same and I'll be testing this out at the track. I doubt there will be a 3 tenth loss in the 1/4, and I'm running stock heads and cam. I'll try and make similar comparison as far as the 60's and DA, not go off my personal best. If I felt there was a chance of lost ET I would not be changing the exhaust setup at all.

 

To the OP either of the 2 brands are great quality pieces. If I was doing kooks I'd run the f body headers, and they would be larger then the 2 mentioned sizes, but for budget and hp to dollar reasons I'm gonna run the 1 7/8 but that's irrelevant to the question lol

 

Good luck and you'll be happy with either one

 

 

On standby for the results of your header swap.

[Normandy]

Heres the video.

 

http://vid18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/plyboy1917/IMG_2796_zps3fd65317.mp4

Thanks for taking that for me. It sounds a lot like my Flowmaster 10's before I added the resonators. I cant remember, did you say if you had cats or not?

As of right now all I have done is a K&N CAI, Taylor 409 plug wires, NGK TR55's, 2 1/2" true dual exhaust with dual flowbastard 40's (they were on it when I bought it), MAS screen removed, RPM of Garner NC tune & Texas Speed and Performance 1 7/8" F-Body LT's with Kooks High Flow cats sourced from a 2000 F-Body. Other then these mods it is completely stock. I have ran a best of 14.89@91MPH in the 1/4. Now mind you my weight is 350lbs, my truck is over 5250 pounds w/ everything in it (I mean jumper cable bag with tools, tow ropes, small air compressor, buster seat for my son, carseat for my daughter, spare tire, tailgate not removed, rumber bed mat, full tank of gas & countless other weight factors. I wanted to know what it would run in full street weight. I didn't change wheels and tire, I still run the stock style Goodyear tires. So with me driving it at the track it's weight is around if not over 5600lbs. I last ran the truck at the track on July, 19th 2013 GI.06SS (Steve) was there while I ran my truck. I couldnt get it to do better then a 2.21 60ft time no matter what I tried. I did trying dropping the tire pressure to around 17-20 PSI with no help at all in my 60ft. My third pass was different then all the other 10+ passes I made that night I had ran in the right lane all night and it was working great for me. I came out of the hole at around 800-900 RPM's and floored it off of a foot brake. It spun like crazy and I couldnt peddle it for anything. I tried to replacate that pass but it wouldnt do it after that, I really dont know what happened there on that pass. I do plan on building a L92 for the truck in the next year or two. From there I'm going to install a Porcharger onto the L92. The next mod will be to finish the 3" true dual exhaust with Pro Street 6000 Spintech mufflers all the way out back to keep down on the drone if not eliminating it. I'm also installing a 40K trucool trans cooler in the very near future. From there I will be having a 4L65 level 5-6 built w/ a 3200 stall triple disk converter.

You mentioned removing the tailgate when you at the track. Is that something most you you guys do? If so, were you able to notice any difference?

[Tyson1972]

I have noticed about 2mph advantage plus it looses some weight while doing so. I do know guys pull the right front headlight lens and that helps with more cleaner & cooler air into the CAI, but I havent done that myself. My next time at the track will be with as much weight off of the truck as possible.

[Normandy]

I have noticed about 2mph advantage plus it looses some weight while doing so. I do know guys pull the right front headlight lens and that helps with more cleaner & cooler air into the CAI, but I havent done that myself. My next time at the track will be with as much weight off of the truck as possible.

I may try that Friday when I head to the track ( weather permitting) For my set up I wouldn't need to pull the headlight, the volant kit has a ram air scoop corrected to my passenger fog light housing.

[Mcinalli123]

I have ARH headers on my SSS there 1 3/4 love them well worth the money

My truck runs 14.6 @93 with the ARH long tubes aem cai and a corsa sport

Still needs to be tuned. I just ordered a circle d 3200 stall hope to break into mid 13's

Edited August 7, 2014 by Mcinalli123 (see edit history)

[Normandy]

What about buying the cats separately? I found these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-93253/overview/make/chevrolet . Saves quite a bit of money going that way. What do you guys think?

I have ARH headers on my SSS there 1 3/4 love them well worth the money
My truck runs 14.6 @93 with the ARH long tubes aem cai and a corsa sport
Still needs to be tuned. I just ordered a circle d 3200 stall hope to break into mid 13's

What were you running prior to the headers?

[Tyson1972]

Those arent bad but I would look on Craigslist for some used High Flow Cats. Kooks, Magnaflow, & many others can be found on there just do a search.

Hey Micheal besides what you have mentioned what else is done to your truck?

[coal miner]

I had pacesetter headers and really didn't like them. I bought the ARH 1 7/8 headers and really like them. It seemed like to me I picked up a few more ponies threw out the entire powerband.

[Blown 346]

Thanks for taking that for me. It sounds a lot like my Flowmaster 10's before I added the resonators. I cant remember, did you say if you had cats or not?

 

I have no cats, just the 24 inch magnaflow dumped right before the axle, And the kooks headers. and Y pipe.

Edited August 7, 2014 by Blown 346 (see edit history)

[BLOWN SS/T]

I got my shipment today, just gotta find some time in between work to install them now.

 

I bought these for nearly nothing lol I'm stoked by what a good deal I got. I'll sell my used set and come out winning : )

 

I know a lot of you guys like to buy the ARH's but for that kinda of money there's other mods you can buy that you'll benefit from much more from. Some of you guys buy them for the quality because you live in conditions where there is snow etc... But if you don't have severe weather conditions I recommend the pacesetters as best bang for buck, dollar for hp you won't get a better deal. And I'm willing to bet no one here has gained better ET's (that they can prove) using X brand headers vs me with my cheapy pacesetters : )

 

If I really didn't know what mods to buy for a 1k dollars then maybe I'd buy some. But other then that it would only be to buy the kooks f body 1 7/8" into 2" primaries and 3.5" collectors, and only because they're the only company who makes them lol

[Blown 346]

What about buying the cats separately? I found these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-93253/overview/make/chevrolet . Saves quite a bit of money going that way. What do you guys think?

 

I agree on using High Flow cats. I have had my set on my camaro for over 10 years without either failing. Yes they might coast a little more If i remember. But do it once and be done, instead of twice when you could have saved not only money on having to buy another set, but the hassle of having them welded back in.