TxSilverado361 Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Thanks everyone. The step rails have been KILLING ME. I hate them. I definitely lol'd at the overwhelming hate too haha. I asked the shop that flushed my brake system to cut them off with a torch (the bolts are seized) and they couldn't figure out what I meant..later I find out the guy at the desk completely botched the explanation and luckily the tech was smart enough to not go slicing up my truck. He couldn't believe what I asked for vs what he was told. I'll go back this weekend to get it done. The truck had bedrails too when I bought it, terrible. Back to the noise: I was out of town all weekend, but will find some time this week to investigate it. Thanks again for the responses. Just today my serice advisor told me a customer needed air in his tires, well I walked to the car and he said I hope you can help me with this noise I'm having etc... turned out he told her he had a grinding noise from the passenger brakes! When I quoted my advisor for front brake pads with resurfacing and 2 front tires she stared like I thought he only needed air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Just today my serice advisor told me a customer needed air in his tires, well I walked to the car and he said I hope you can help me with this noise I'm having etc... turned out he told her he had a grinding noise from the passenger brakes! When I quoted my advisor for front brake pads with resurfacing and 2 front tires she stared like I thought he only needed air? Um....what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
someotherguy Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Sounds like a typical story of what the customer told the service advisor, vs. what the service advisor told the tech. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSilverado361 Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Sounds like a typical story of what the customer told the service advisor, vs. what the service advisor told the tech. Richard Yea, sometimes the miscommunication between people in the service and parts department is just plain nuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Yea, sometimes the miscommunication between people in the service and parts department is just plain nuts... Oh, wow. speaking of miscommunications! I had no idea why you were offering that up but, yeah, I see what you mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 (edited) So I got a good look at it today and brought along a stethoscope. Good news is I didn't hear any ticking through the stethoscope from the heads or anywhere else, there was a slight howling sound but I think that was just belt/wind/fluid noise being transferred in. Also, I now can see that I am definitely missing one of the manifold bolts, and it looks like there's a slight mark of blow-by right above it. The way it looks, it could also be from coincidental dirty fluid draining down from up top to the same spot...but I'm pretty sure it's blow-by. So assuming its an exhuast leak...few considerations: - Everything has a very rusty/seized look to it. - I may also have a small hairline crack in the manifold too but not where the exhaust leak seems to be coming from, it could also just be a rust layer flaking off. - Should I just replace everything from headers back? Would be substantially easier to do this work with all new components. However, I really don't want to sink 2000+ into the truck, I have some other big purchases coming up soon and I should be saving. - Will OEM replacements cost me what aftermarket will? - How much of a PITA is it to remove an old rusty exhaust on these trucks? It seems I'd have a nearly impossible time reaching in there around the brake booster and steering shaft to break those bolts loose. I can't fathom how you get the one against the firewall. Not to mention the remainder of the system. - Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?), and these seem way small and out of place to be header bolts. Ideally, I just want it to get fixed in an easy way without breaking the bank. Which may involve taking parts over to a cheap exhaust shop and letting them handle the work of removing/installation? What's your guys' thoughts Edited September 28, 2016 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 It is quite rare to read about anyone putting headers on these trucks and not breaking at least one header bolt. I have read many story's of how guys did manage to remove broken bolts. I do most all of my own mechanical work, but I have decided that if any of my header bolts give me a nervous feeling when I start to remove them, the truck is going to an exhaust specialty shop. I am not outfitted with the proper tools to deal with broken header bolts and as you have already realized, they are not all easy to get to. Here is a tool especially designed to deal with broken header bolts. It looks pretty slick, but it costs most of what I would expect to pay a shop to install the headers. http://maniboltdriller.com/products/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eberhama Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 The bolts are 10mm, later motors got 13mm heads,but those snap off too. The best motor I've delt with had 1 broken off, the worst was 5. Sometimes you get lucky and the head snaps off and you can spin it out with a vise grips, but usually they snap off flush with the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS-GTP Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 LOL, "Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?)". Yes, nearly every bolt in your SS is metric. The automotive giants went metric back in the 90's. I agree that it's very common for broken manifold bolts, I got the pleasure of extracting the driver side one closest to the firewall when I did my headers. As far as access goes pull the front wheel and the wheel well liners and you will have nearly straight access to the bolts but will need some ratchet extensions. Unless you do find a crack in the manifold(s) and are not interested in performance upgrades at this time I would just reuse the manifolds. I would just get new gaskets from the dealer and new bolts and put it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSilverado361 Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 LOL, "Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?)". Yes, nearly every bolt in your SS is metric. The automotive giants went metric back in the 90's. I agree that it's very common for broken manifold bolts, I got the pleasure of extracting the driver side one closest to the firewall when I did my headers. As far as access goes pull the front wheel and the wheel well liners and you will have nearly straight access to the bolts but will need some ratchet extensions. Unless you do find a crack in the manifold(s) and are not interested in performance upgrades at this time I would just reuse the manifolds. I would just get new gaskets from the dealer and new bolts and put it back together. Obviously using wd-40, liquid wrench, or pb blaster will help break up some of the rust, but when they do give way, work em. Do half a turn off, then do maybe around a quarter turn on, and so on, might help them come out easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted September 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 (edited) LOL, "Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?)". Yes, nearly every bolt in your SS is metric. The automotive giants went metric back in the 90's. I agree that it's very common for broken manifold bolts, I got the pleasure of extracting the driver side one closest to the firewall when I did my headers. As far as access goes pull the front wheel and the wheel well liners and you will have nearly straight access to the bolts but will need some ratchet extensions. Unless you do find a crack in the manifold(s) and are not interested in performance upgrades at this time I would just reuse the manifolds. I would just get new gaskets from the dealer and new bolts and put it back together. lol, I was starting to think someone had the truck rebuilt at a chopshop and washed the title, that's good to know, I have way more metric tools.... Didn't know all the american makers were also metric, never owned one or worked on one lol. I bought tool sets with both cause I thought the truck would be standard Thanks for the budget friendly tip. Considering I dont really have the time that it seems it will take to take off/break/weld nuts onto broken shanks, etc, I'll probably just take new gaskets and a fresh bolt set to a shop.. The bolts are 10mm, later motors got 13mm heads,but those snap off too. The best motor I've delt with had 1 broken off, the worst was 5. Sometimes you get lucky and the head snaps off and you can spin it out with a vise grips, but usually they snap off flush with the head. hahahah, that's "lucky".... no thanks. appreciate the input everyone. I'll followup once I have this done somewhere. Edited September 29, 2016 by CaptKirk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXGM Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 A torch is handy for rusty bolts. HEAT is your friend! Remember that... even a small hand torch will help, get the bolt good and hot and it helps more than you can imagine. But be careful it will be hot.... ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2003,silverado+1500,6.0l+v8,1412042,exhaust,exhaust+manifold+gasket,5400?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F Every other picture shows both gaskets for the same price as ACDelco, but ACDelco only shows one. If I order the ACDelco, do I need two of these PNs? I am gonna do gaskets and bolts on both sides, might as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Looks like you'll need two of the AC Delco. It says "sold individually". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptKirk Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 quotes for labor coming in around 350 to do gaskets.... some say contingent on there being none broken off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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