Looking for audio advice

[Big10Fan]

Ok brands I am limited to as far as speakers and power are infinity or polk. Reason being I get awesome discounts. Anyways so far I've decided on an all infinity system unless someone has something bad to say about them? I am looking at this:

 

Kapp Perfect 6.5" component set

KAPPA PERFECT10.1D I havent decided on if I want 1 or 2 of these, mostly cause Im thinking I want some room under one of the seats for storage.

 

now where I am lost is what amp to power the compnent set with, I asked a few people they said dont go over the RMS which is 100W(peak is 400) but then I emailed inifinity and they told me to power it with a 600watt 2 channel amp at 2ohms sending 290RMS to each side.

 

The only reason I am getting the kappa perfect component set is why not when im getting them 75% off? I dont want to be competition loud, but yet if it wont hurt them, itll only cost $30 more for that amp.

 

also I have the radio controls on steering wheel and was wondering where to get the adapter? and does it work exactly like stock or will I lose 1 or 2 functions from the wheel? like can i still access the driver computer and stuff?

 

lastly is my concern on the electrical system, Im wondering if I will need to upgrade anything? I have the 105amp alternator and stock battery, wiring I'm going to use the best I can, but Im wondering if I'll still need a new battery?if so what are the ebst bang for the buck? obviouslly everyone knows optima, but i heard a top of the line energizer or a exide orbital are good. and to look for high RC.

 

if i go with the 2 subs itll be 600RMS for those plus whatever you suggest on the components, which I assume is going to be 100

[fast4popper]

Lets see if I can get you some answers.

 

I dont have anything bad to say about Infinity, it is personal preference, but I would DEFINATLY give Polk Audio a chance and if you can wait I hear things about a Higher end component system coming from them in the near future.

 

which way are you going to fire the subs? if you are looking at up or down I think the kappa will be too deep. if forward you will be fine.

 

Powering your speakers with as much UNDISTORTED power as you can afford. 100 watts of clean power will out due 200 watts distorted anyday, check your specs and again get as much as you can afford. Dont be affraid to over power them and have power to spare, think of it as a Supercharger, you dont always need it but it is nice to know its there when you want to push the gas pedal/volume knob. I have 300 watts RMS going to a set of Components rated at 120 rms! they came alive when I gave them that much!

 

Steering wheel controls, there is a piece from Pac audio that will function your audio control from your wheel, it takes the voltages from the buttons when you press them and changes it to Infra Red that your after market remote makes. You can program any button in the steering wheel to do any function on the remote. remember if you have a basic remote that does very few commands then your steering wheel controls will only function them few controls. You do NOT lose your computer controls that are on the steering wheel they all still work as they did in the past.

 

As for a new battery, I have to ask how old your current one is? if it is newer then you should be fine. the best I have heard of and tried myself is the Optimas. I also have heard that they Orbital are the same batteries as the Optimas?????

On to the alternator question, I would run the system as you have it and see if you notice any problems, if so then try these few things before spending huge cash on that alternator, Upgrade the factory charging lead between the battery and alternator to at least as big as your amps power lead, also upgrade the ground between the battery and chasis and the alternator and the chasis, remember a good ground is just as important as the charging lead.

 

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions? -c-

[Big10Fan]

the subs will definitely be facing up or down, i havent decided yet, so what if I just used 1 of those 10s? will that be fine? Im confused what you mean by they will be too deep.

 

as for the steering controls again, if I didnt get that module at all, all i would lose is the radio controls? the driver controls are sent to a seperate receiving station?

 

and yes the battery is new, I have a 03 z71 ext cab

[6.0ss]

I have nothing to say bad about infinity stuff, Polk is good too.

 

What amps do you have at your disposal, if it is nothing good let me know, I get wholesale from my guy and can pass that on to you for Diamond, Pioneer, Phoenixgold, Sony, Kicker, and ALpine.

 

If the speakers are 100 watts RMS, and you want them to play awesome, Get an amp that can play 150 x 2 at 4 ohms with low distortion ratio. You can give them more or less that is your call, but they would prob sound best with 150% of the RMS on tap, It gives you something called Headroom,. That is noticable when you are really jaming on them and the music becomes more complex thus taking up more power to play that sound. If you have extra head room you won't hear any distortion from the amp throwing more power out. if you are at your peak, then it will distort. Use the rule of 150-200% of rms power, for subs, the sky is the llimit, just don't fry them and get an amp that can give out the subs peak power capability

 

The stock alt is fine for 2 amplifiers if you are not running crazy current through them, If you total current draw is not larger than 60 amps you should be ok, I was pulling 80-140 in my truck and had some trouble so upsized to a king of an alternator!! 250 amp!!

 

Good luck with the install and enjoy it, you are doing the fun part, shopping for all the goodies!!! THe next fun part is taking that picture with the boxes of all the cool stuff that you just put in!!!!

[fast4popper]

by to deep I mean physically too deep. the magnet is gonna hit the floor or the seat. Facing down is best for sound in these trucks, as for not getting steering wheel controls, you will be fine without using them at all... I also agree with just about everything that 6.0 ss said!

[Big10Fan]

my only option for amps right now is any current ininity or polk model.

 

How do i figure out how many amps they will be drawing?

 

also if those subs are too deep, which infinity model would you suggest? I am getting ANYTHING that polk or infinity offers at 65-75% off depending on what it is. Once again dont get too happy with the discount, I still want to keep it as simple and cheap as possible.

[fast4popper]

to figure out how many amps you will be pulling, just add up the fuse ratings in you amps themselves and this will give you a good guideline to go by. as for subs from them 2 companies, all of the Infinities are pretty deep, try the cheaper polk Momo subs for clearence help. those are my thoughts. that is a HUGE discount, I manage a shop that carries both, and that is the deal we get, how are you pulling that off? good to have connections aint it

[Big10Fan]

http://www.polkaudio.com/car/product.php?name=db104

 

http://www.polkaudio.com/car/product.php?name=mm2104

 

http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/pr...Ser=REF&Cat=SUB

 

http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/pr...Ser=KAP&Cat=SUB

 

those are my options for low end subwoofers, so your saying when the sub hits the cone is going to jump and hit the floor or bottom of the bench and damage the sub?

 

I work at circuit city, we get discounts straight from the manufacturer

[fast4popper]

basically that is what I am saying yes. there will not be enough depth for the sub and the box to perform well together tehy will slap either the floor or the seat. I would try the second sub on your post, the Momo.

[Big10Fan]

oof I didnt really wanna spend any extra money on the actual truck besides $150 max to spend on a battery, an alt is wicked expensive, how about using a dual battery setup hooking them up in parallel? anyone got any info on that? I dont wanna spend any money on an isolator, whats a disadvantage to having a dual battery setup in parallel?

 

the polk amps draw more amps than the infinity's

 

with the infinity 2chan amp(100rmsx2) and the mono 300rms thats 74amps being drawn. if I go with 2 subs itll be 104a being drawn. I'm just starting college, and dont have much money to spend, my initial budget was like $700 including h/u. recently i said ok $1000 including h/u but now it looks like I'll still have to go over that. =\

[Big10Fan]

actually I just checked it out again... put everything in the shopping cart

 

$420 for

comp set

2 amps

and 1 1030w

 

will 1 1030w be enough to compliment the perfect components? infinity has better prices than polk(the discount goes off retail, polk has higher MSRP)

 

h/u is prolly gunna be another $180(unless I chose to go with a better one) all the wiring i'll need will be about $50, which leaves me $50 left to go with the steering wheel module I guess. I feel like I am missing something because the other night when I did a shopping cart total it told me $650 just for the infinity stuff

[fast4popper]

The only thing that dual batts is good for is when you listen to the system with the truck not running, it actually puts a bigger load on the alternator, i would steer clear of it in you situation. You have a decent set up with great components. let us know how the system ends up and how it sounds

[6.0ss]

Umm,, Ya know, So many people focus on how much power a sub take and how much an amp can produce. This past week I was playing around with a special kind of subs enclosure called a Transmission line enclosure. I had a single JL6w0 in a box that measured 32inches by 14 inches by 7 inches, it was just a test box that I built, but we hit a 120 db from a 6 inch sub with 250 watts!!!!! Here is the cut away of the enclosure!

 

 

And the Scary thing is that it sounded sweet. The thing was tuned at about 45-50 Hz and it was just to much fun!

 

Here is my Point! You are looking at this all wrong, IF you design something properly you don't need to have gobs of power or some crazy sub to make things sound awesome. If a 6 inch sub out slamed my 12inch eclipse subs in a sealed box, Imagine what a 10inch sub might do in the proper enclosure!!!!

[6.0ss]

I will design it for you, hell even build it if you cover material cost and it will hit harder than 2 sealed 10's for sure!!!!!!!

 

Ok maybe not what you want to hear. The alternative is to put a small lift on your seat, You can do this by placing a steel plate under each end of the seat, CHeck out GMfullsize.com or fullsizechevy.com, a couple of people on there have done that stuff and it turned out well with out very much trouble and then you can fit what you want under there!!!!

 

Also measure how deep the subs are, measure you truck, do the math and just make sure it will fit before you do it!

[Big10Fan]

I was wondering will the new tweeter in the component set fit where the stock one is? or will there have to be some modifications? also right now the biggest thing that annoys me with the stock system is the speaker rattle, I dont know if its from the speaker itself or something else with the door. I know sound deadening stuff works, but as far as I know the speakers are screwwed over a piece of plastic then to the metal door, or am I wrong? that plastic is probably the culprit.