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Baer Brakes


Stitches040

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Hey Guys.....

 

I know that this topic may have been put up before, but I couldn't find any conclusive evidence otherwise.

 

I am thinking of upgrading my stock brakes to the Baer Brakes, when I get my 22's. So, this has got me thinking of a couple of questions.

 

What is the major difference between the AlumaSport and the EradiSpeed +1?? I know the AlumaSport is about double the cost. But what are the permormance gains between the two? Or would I just be foolish to get the AlumaSports, since the difference between the two are so minimal?

 

If there is a better upgrade for brakes, what are they? (within reason, dollarwise)

 

Once I upgrade my brakes... what is a good set of Brake Lines I should buy. I figure I should upgrade those too, while I'm under there, tearing stuff out??

 

Thanks in Advance..... :thumbs::thumbs:

 

Shuan

 

Baer Brakes .com

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I DO NOT recommend the Baer Alumasports. I have them, they stop great, look cool as hell, and are easy to install, BUT, i did not pay 2 g's to have brakes that squeel. They squeel loud, and almost all the time. i know, i know, performance brakes need alot of heat yadda yadda yadda. and i did break them in properly.

 

just my opinion that $2000 brake kits should not squeel like a bitch.

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I DO NOT recommend the Baer Alumasports.  I have them, they stop great, look cool as hell, and are easy to install, BUT, i did not pay 2 g's to have brakes that squeel. They squeel loud, and almost all the time.  i know, i know, performance brakes need alot of heat yadda yadda yadda.  and i did break them in properly. 

 

just my opinion that $2000 brake kits should not squeel like a bitch.

The only noise I get is when I'm almost to a complete stop.

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i also have the alumasports. and they do squeal if you dont get on them enough, you have to keep the pads " bedded" , everytime i start to hear the squeal , i just re bed the pads and that cures the noise until they become unbeaded again. The only difference between the eradispeed and alumasports is the alumasports come with bigger calipers than the stock ones, plus they are perrty shiney red!! :D .I would recommend stainless lines. i have heard goosd things about earls but i have no experience with them. i had my lines made at an aicraft supply store. for a fraction of the cost.I didnt pay full price for the kit so i was definatley happy with them. after riding in jons truck though i would say go with the 6 piston 15 rotors, up front if you have the $$$.

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I believe the Alumasport calipers (all Baer calipers actually) are CNC'ed from billet aluminum, as opposed to stock calipers wich are cast. Also, the Baer calipers are larger than stock, and have larger pistons than stock. I was kind of suprised that the Alumasports were only 2 piston though, but larger pistons none the less.

 

And yes, as the others said these brakes do need to be driven kind of hard to maintain pad bedding. If not they can squeek, or develop a film whcih results in a feeling similar to warped rotors.

 

I used the Earl's braided lines, which fit perfect and work well.

 

J

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I believe the Alumasport calipers (all Baer calipers actually) are CNC'ed from billet aluminum, as opposed to stock calipers wich are cast.  Also, the Baer calipers are larger than stock, and have larger pistons than stock.  I was kind of suprised that the Alumasports were only 2 piston though, but larger pistons none the less.

 

And yes, as the others said these brakes do need to be driven kind of hard to maintain pad bedding.  If not they can squeek, or develop a film whcih results in a feeling similar to warped rotors.

 

I used the Earl's braided lines, which fit perfect and work well.

 

J

The regular alumasport calipers are a cast aluminum piece which are then machined. Their 6 piston calipers are solid billet cut from one solid piece of material. The factory calipers are cast iron not aluminum.

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Good Stuff guys .... Thanks....

 

Just explain "Bedding" a little bit more please.

 

So what I have read so far, is that feeling I have that seems like the begining to Rotor Warping, is just a "Film". (This is probably because I drive my truck about 3 days a month right now, ..Winter) So, should I romp on it a little, and then break hard a few times. Truck has 10k on the clock.

 

Shuan

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I thought the A-S calipers were billet because I don't see any casting marks, but I could be wrong. I did notice the 6 piston version looks like 2 halves bolted together though, unlike the 2 piston.

 

I don't think bedding should be an issue on stock brakes because the pads aren't very aggressive, at least not that I noticed. As I understand, re-bedding basically means getting on the brakes a little harder than normal once in a while to heat them up and clean away the film that might develop from stop and go driving. The pads are an aggressive compound that like to see some heat and hard use. When I used my stock brakes pretty hard messing around a few times making passes, they smelled like burning clutch afterwards.

 

The Baers on my wife's truck squeak a little just before stopping and sometimes get the film, but the ones on the SS are quiet.

 

J

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Good Stuff guys .... Thanks....

 

Just explain "Bedding" a little bit more please.

 

So what I have read so far, is that feeling I have that seems like the begining to Rotor Warping, is just a "Film".  (This is probably because I drive my truck about 3 days a month right now, ..Winter)  So, should I romp on it a little, and then break hard a few times.  Truck has 10k on the clock.

 

Shuan

"Bedding" is the process of coating the raw steel rotor in brake lining material. When rotors are new they produce very little friction, so to prepare them for use you must apply the pad to the rotor with enough pressure/heat to transfer a microscopic layer of brake pad material onto the face of the rotor. After you have imbedded and built-up this layer of pad material on the rotor you will get very good bite under braking; if this layer of imbedded material is lost (like overheating or switching pads) then you have loss of brake performance until the pads are bedded-in again. Street-use pads are designed to work at low temperatures so it is easy to bed them in with only normal stop-and-go driving, but these pads are prone to overheating as well. Track-use pads need to be pretty hot to bed-in correctly, hence they do not work right when cold. Point is, performance pads will have a specific procedure to ensure you get that first transfer of pad material to rotor without getting the rotor so hot as to damage it.

 

Mr. P.

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I thought the A-S calipers were billet because I don't see any casting marks, but I could be wrong.  I did notice the 6 piston version looks like 2 halves bolted together though, unlike the 2 piston.

 

I don't think bedding should be an issue on stock brakes because the pads aren't very aggressive, at least not that I noticed.  As I understand, re-bedding basically means getting on the brakes a little harder than normal once in a while to heat them up and clean away the film that might develop from stop and go driving.  The pads are an aggressive compound that like to see some heat and hard use.  When I used my stock brakes pretty hard messing around a few times making passes, they smelled like burning clutch afterwards.

 

The Baers on my wife's truck squeak a little just before stopping and sometimes get the film, but the ones on the SS are quiet.

 

J

Baer obviously cleans the casting lines before powdercoating them and powdercoat will cover up a lot. They are also not baer calipers they are PBR's out of Australia, the factory started using cast iron PBR's on the 05 and newer trucks with the bigger disk setup up front and drum setup in the rear. The 6 pistons are not two piece calipers bolted together they are one single piece. I am still trying to figure out how in the hell they bore the holes for the pistons.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I would not recommend the Alumasports. I've had to take the pads off every 2 months and file down the "glaze". This fixes the squealing for about a month.

I called Baer to get replacement pads and was told to ask a Dodge dealer for the pads that are used for the 300c/Magnum Hemi since these are the same pads...

From what I've seen, Wilwood is the way to go.. (you get what you pay for)

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have the alumasports and am not sure how they compare to the eradispeeds, but i can tell you my brakes do squeal like the others. I also used the earls brakelines and they bolt right on and are the way to go. :thumbs: Good luck with your decision if you havent made it already.

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i have the alumasports and am not sure how they compare to the eradispeeds, but i can tell you my brakes do squeal like the others.  I also used the earls brakelines and they bolt right on and are the way to go. :thumbs:  Good luck with your decision if you havent made it already.

WTF do you guys do to your brakes that cause them to squeal??? :confused: I have had mine on for a while now and still have only had them squeal at low speed right before I am completely stopped but there is nothing abnormal about it, thats what disk brakes do! My stock brakes squealed all the time even up to 80mph or so, maybe I am just hard enough on the brakes to prevent them from squealing because I will tell you I am not easy on my shit ask Chase!!! I see no point in spending the money and having expensive brakes if your not gonna take full advantage of it. That would be like your grandma owning a 1965 or 70 Chevelle SS 396, it just doesn't make sence.

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