socom22

Fireman31- how much trans work have you had done since the cam and converter install? running slicks or drag radials giving you a problem?

GI.SS- I noticed you have a 2wd also, mine smokes the tires with part throttle launches. Do you have the same problem? I was thinking that if i went with a bigger verter (3200+) that it would make it even worse considering the power gain from the cam. The tech at TSP mentioned it to me thats why he recommended that lsa with the tq that i already have. Whats your take? CHPSPECIAL- i lived right down the street from you when i was stationed at NAB. i lived off of Olympic by the mall. I saw your truck a couple of times but never got to meet up with anyone at Qualcom for the 1/8th mile races. MuggSS- How is that 228 for low end torque? That was my first choice but the 224/228 was recommended a couple of times.

Hell I had no idea they had that there. Im in Slidell, i guess i know what im doing this weekend!

I've searched for a cam for quite a while and after calling around and getting a few cam recommendations from manufacturers I think I've decided to go with a TSP comp 224/228 111lsa. My question is whether you agree with the cam grind for a SS. I have all the bolt ons plus a hardened parts rebuilt trans with a zippy shift kits and a 2800 stall. It's an 06' 2wd with the stock 3:73 gears. The tech at Texas Speed said the 224/228 would be a good mid range cam with good idle quality. He recommended the 111lsa for the lope and said that that lsa would bring the power band in a little sooner then the regularly recommended 112 or 114 lsa. What's you guys take on the situation? Goal: make it faster, but it's my DD. no towing.

I'm interested in the cam if its still available.

Do you still have the cam, springs and pushrods for sale. I am very interested.

Hey brother what's the price? Didn't show up when viewed from phone.

Dont know if anyone else has ran across this but i had my cam position sensor slowly go out on me over the past 3 weeks. I was driving back from Houston to NOLA and I had a DTC P0343 pop about half way through the drive. I tryed to clear the code but it kept coming back. I put the stock PCM back in but the code popped within the second start. It got to the point where it would take 3-4 tries for it to start. I finally had enough and picked up a new sensor yesterday. So today i removed the intake and changed out the sensor. It started up with no problems on the first try. KInda of a pain in the ass to change but not too bad. Took about 3 hours from start to finish while trying to keep my 3 year old entertained at the same time. Just thought I'd share the experence. If anyone has the same problem feel free to ask questions and maybe I can help you out. Eric

Im in slidell, I know there are about 3 other people close by that have SSs also. Im in and out of the coutry all the time but I do enjoy meeting up with folks at the drag strip when im in town. Let us know..

Check the band clamp on the exhaust where it comes out of the cats. Mine started rattling after the trans got redone. I thought it was something major until I put it on rack and listened. The band felt tight then I lossened it and retightened it and it went away. Hope it helps!

Hey guys I live in Slidell, La and I've seen quite a few SSs around lately. Just wondering if any of the guys want to get together and run over to Gulfport Race way and make a couple of runs. About a week ago I saw they had a Lightening get together off of Robert Rd. I saw a SRT-10 QC driving back and forth down the road trying to start something. After I picked up some dinner with the kids I headed back to the house. About 5 miles from the house I see someone cutting in and out of traffic trying to catch me. Sure enough it was the SRT-10. Well he didnt get what he wanted because I had my 5 and 1 year old in the truck with me. Maybe next time im alone. Anyways any local guys hit me up, I'm open for about another 3 months before I have to head out of the country again. Later

Hey guys first off I appologize for the poorly written post. I was not trying to show any anger or aggresion toward anyone on here. I understand my statement sounded unprofessional. My statement was pertaining to the fact that I've had a shitty year being forced to transfer and on the verge of losing a half million dollar house. I've had to drop over 3 grand of unsuspected money on my 3 year old truck that sits in the garage when I'm out of the country. 95% of the guys on here always give great info. Hell I wasn't offended by what anybody said. I just know from past post that a discussion gets off discussion real fast. Anyways, Zippy I understand what your saying about getting what you pay for. I've probably used some substandard shops due to financial reasons. Enough buh huing on my part, all I was stating was that I want a truck I can drive and have some fun with. I know cake and eat it too right??? Thanks again, and please keep the knowledge coming.

Well I called Jesse and he said it wasn't the tune. It was either the converter or an error on the builder. I called the builder and he said it was some one else. Called Zippy and he gave me some info. Called a race trans shop and he said it was the accumulator valve. Shit I really dont care who, or what it is. I just want a f+cling transmission that I can drive back and forth to work and maybe to the track a couple times a year! Anyways thanks for all the input and help. Sometimes I hate posting shit on forums cause instead of getting an answer or help you guys talking trash and pointing fingers. All in all I learned something about the 4l65e and that's what matters!

Cai, exhaust, headers, wires, 2800 stall, zippy shift kit. 2/2 drop,nitto tires and a custom tune. It's an 06', 2wd and it only has 40,000 miles. I use it as a dd which is about a 20 min drive on open hwy. I usually get on it 2 or 3 times a week but not from a dead stop. Usually on the on ramp and on the highway. My wife's getting pissed because I keep dumping money in the SS. Any help on what it could be would help guys..

The output shaft snapped at the oilhole. Part of the shaft spun in the planitary and tore all the parts attached to the output shaft.

Jesse at Wait4me. I've had no problems until the trans. I'm kind of caught because Blackbear is doing a group tune in Gulfport, Ms in Sep. And I have to run back to Houston in about a month to renew my registration and inspection sticker. I could have Wheatly do a tune for me while I'm there. Kinda low on cash do to my house in San Diego and the one i'm living in now. Didn't help with me sh*ting 2 grand to have the trans rebuilt last month.

F*cking Update!!! So I was out of town for 3 weeks with the truck sitting in the garage. I get back and drive it and it seemed fine. I never sent it back to get retuned thinking after the build it was all good. Wel, I went back by the trans shop to pick up my receipt that I had left from a month ago and BANG. Trucks dead on the side of the road after the 1-2 shift not 1 mile from the shop. They get it back and imidiatly start tearing it down. Now its the GD input shaft and the drum. I pulled the pcm on the spot and sent it back to the tuner. I shoved the stocker in as soon as they had her buttoned up. Runs fine so far but completly a dog with the stock PCM in. I just can't win with this trans...

Hey brother I was thinking the same thing about our trucks. (3 yrs old, 44,000 miles) I dont want to get rid of mine either but I've spent some ridiculus money on repair items that weren't doing a damn thing for performance. Good luck!

I actually have the two diffrent tires you mentioned. I got the Hankook RH06s up front on a Tuesday. (blowout) then went back on Saturday to order matching back. I was given bad news. Supposedly Hankook dosent make the RH06 in a 305/50/20 anymore only the RH07. After I did a little research I found the Nitto 420s on Discount Tire Zone web site for 147.00 each. They charged me 30 bucks to ship them from Dallas to New Orleans. Walmart charged 16.00 to mount and balance and install. I came out cheaper by ordering them on line then going to a local shop. Most shops in the NOLA area quoted about 175-205.00 each on the 305/50. All in all the truck rides smooth and the Nittos hook up awsome.

Hey brother, I just order 2x 305/50/20s off Discount Tire Zone and I payed 147.00 each. They are alot better traction wise. I had the Proxies on the rear (305/50/20-I have a 2wd) and I would leave nice smokey tire marks anytime I'd stab her past half throttle. I just put the 420s on there a week ago and I'm replacing my trans cause it snapped the output shaft on the 1-2 shift. I believe the Nittos not giving had something to do with it.

Thanks for all the input guys! I'll load the pics as soon as I learn how. I'm going to give this trans guy a shot. Taking the advice of some individuals on here, I will be sending my pcm back for alittle shift retuning. It was cool and all to have it yank my head back everytime it shifted (even at low speeds) but I guess its not the best thing for the output shaft.... Damn 06's shitty trans, weird closed loop non enriching SS. Wouldn't buy another truck though.

Well guys you were correct, its trashed. I'll post the pics soon. Verdict of break.... snapped rear output shaft/ broke planitay and sheered the sun gear smooth. Trans guys say hes only seen it happen to 650lbs and up cars running 4l60s. Can't believe it. I'm guessing over 2 grand, I'll find out Monday.

Well on the way to work this morning i was merging onto a rural highway. Had to cross the highway to go northbound. As I was rolling into the throttle about 1/2 way because there was traffic coming up behind me..... BANG! Truck coasted to a dead stop and the check brake sensor came on. I turned the truck off and started it back up. Engine runs fine, put it in drive, nothing. Put it in reverse and it slowly creeps backwards with a rubbing sound. Well I was 3 miles from work and I couldnt be late so I locked her up and headed to work. I called a local trans shop and they came and towed it to their shop. When I got off I ran by the trans shop as they were dropping the pan. Fluid looked really cherry until we looked into the bottom of the pan. Little metal particles all over the place. F*uck! Well there breaking down tomorrow so I'll update you guys with the verdict to what it was. I was thinking it was the sun gear or the planitary, but would that leave metal shavings in the pan. And will this require a complete rebuild or can they flush the trans and replace the hard parts? Brief history on trans mods: 2800 stall, Zippy shift kit. Rebanded, 2-4 and z-pack clutches. Sorry for the long post..

what kind of gains did you get out of this set up? Were you running an aftermarket cam or were you still stock?