moog5050

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Brian at JPA threw in a mechanical boost gauge when I bought my Radix 112 from him. It didn't come with instructions for the install. Can someone give me the quick run down on how to install. To which wires do I connect the ground and live? To which line should I "T" the boost/vacuum line? Anything else I need to consider? Thanks. BTW - finally getting my truck back from a tranny build tonight. Tranny went down right after I finished the radix install. Can't wait to try the truck with boost and the tranny upgrades.

I give you a lot of credit, you have much more patience than me. I started taping and cutting and it seemed to take forever when the bright idea of the sharpie came to mind. Your covers look great. I will say, however, the sharpie really does work and no one could tell its not paint under the clear coats. My covers are just sitting in a box now that I installed the radix anyways LOL.

Use a sharpie to "paint" the ridges and lettering after you have your base color done. It is a lot easier than trying to tape it in my opinion and worked well for me. Do several clear coats over everything at the end.

The belt doesn't fit even if you use a breaker bar to pull the tensioner over? Not sure what to say because I have a the stock radix pully and there was a lot of room for the belt when I used the breaker bar.

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Radix is fixed. Seems to be running smoothly. Unfortunately, before receiving the new tune (which corrected the code issues), my tranny began slipping. Going in monday for a tranny rebuild. I can't wait to finally get everything working right and trying the new radix with the proper tune. Hopefully within a week.

Yep, but I have yet to see it. Still being shipped from Orlando. 1000rwhp .... scary. Gonna make my radix feel like a Geo.

Now I am just trying to make it into an expensive positive. Thank goodness Turboberserker moved 10 minutes from me. He is helping me through this process or I would be lost.

It is not fool proof ... this fool can atetst to that ... bubbled my paint trying to take out a minor scratch that was appraently too deep. I have gone back to hand polishing and waxing. Jon ... shoot me a PM.

I am kind of regretting it because it isn't up and running still. No confirmation on what the problem is with the tranny. Looking at the bright side, if I need to rebuild, I may go with a built 4l80e from FLT. Then I should be set for life LOL.

Thank you

To clarify, I used the stock tune when I picked it up after the shift kit install (pre-radix). After the radix install, I used the radix tune. I hope your right and that is all it is. If I blew the tranny, would it still shift manually?

In the last two weeks I had a zippy shift kit and TBTC installed. When I picked it up, it didn't feel quite right, but I figured it was just because of the mods. I couldn't point to anything I knew was wrong. Tranny temps went from 150ish to 200 immediately. Then I installed a radix. After installing the radix and driving it for less than 30 miles or so, the tranny began slipping. I probably shouldn't have done all the mods at once, but live and learn. The tranny is now slipping in drive. It seems to be OK when I shift manually through 1, 2 and 3. It is going back to the shop on Monday (being towed in). My questions is, could the problem be a misinstalled shift kit, or does it sound like a different unrelated problem? I checked the fluid and it was down one quart. I was told that if it was the shift kit, it would not have shifted immediately. Also, after the install, I was expecting much harder shifts, but that was not the case at all. That said, I also installed the original pcm, so I thought the softer shifts were due to the TM. Any thoughts so that I can speak intelligently with the installer (they are a high performance shop - not a transmission shop). Frankly, they seem honest and have been helpful in the past, so its not that I don't trust them. I just like to do my own homework. Thoughts. Thanks in advance for your help. BTW - Good news is that the raidx seems ok now. I need a better tune, it is definitely running lean after 4000plus rpms, but no more codes popping. Waiting for new tune from Wheatley.

Thanks all. Finally got it right. Took more time than I thought because the bleed valves were rusted and corroated (sp?), but the new brakes are working well.

Thanks Charlie. You have been very helpful. I appreciate it.

Thanks Guys. I have tried it both ways, but still not go.

Thanks I checked that. I have the right wires and they are coming from the vehicle, not the harness side. Did you plug the remaining wires in the harness to the plug on the CAI. Doesn't seem to make a difference, but just wondering what is correct. I think you just use the IAT and not the MAF any longer.

Finished the install and got a tune for it from Charlie Wheatley. It is not running well. When the RPMs go up on WOT, it has no power. I can hear the radix whinning and it seems to be dragging. The check engine light is on and the codes are 0172, 0175 and 1518. 0172 and 0175 together say bank 1 and 2 are running rich and suggest checking the MAF, I rewired the tan and black wires from the MAF to the IAT in the front of the charger to no avail. 1518 says it may be a failed VICS solenoid or it is stuck open. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Never mind, I am guessing I need to bleed each caliper.

I installed earl's steel braided lines in front last night, and changed by rotors and pads all around. When changing the lines, I lost a lot of fluid and refilled this morning. However, now I am getting a service brake light and the brake pedal has no resistance. The new lines do not appear to be leaking and I was careful not to disturb the abs sensors. I am I missing something when refilling the fluid? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, the rear lines sent with the earls kit did not have a square banjo head and did not appear to be the right ones. Should the rear lines have a square banjo head like the fronts? Thanks for your help.

Photos would be very helpful. Thanks Mr. P.

Mr. P. Those temps were before the Radix install. Heven't run it with the radix. Any directions on how to relocate the heat exchanger?