dozer

Put it before the cat on the drivers side (bank 1) due to the fact it tends to be leaner than the passenger side (bank 2). Some not most will put them post cat I however do not.

A D1SC on a 408 with a big cam, ported heads, and high flow exhaust you will not see more than 14-16psi at max blower rpm and no belt slip. Your Hp levels will be up from all the air you are flowing since boost is just a measure of restriction anyways. But if you are determined to make 20psi you would need to step up to a F series blower.

Either makes a great blower and both make tons of power?

It was 1100.00 Its for a Procharger. You could use ATI's pinning kit no need to drill the pulley and installs like a key into the crank and would fit your key way in your pulley. I used it and the dual pinning kit on my setup so i have 3 pins. ATI pin kit

This 8 rib setup just came in. I am doing a cam and 8rib this weekend on my friend Keith's SS. Here are some pics of his truck also last time at the track he ran a 12.3 @ 108 on a P1SC. I kinda got carried away with the camera with the pulleys on my new stainless steel bench and the neon light above it.

I just picked these up today at Summit Racing $256.39 PN#EDL-41183. They come in Black, Polished, and As Cast. i already have the Edelbrock Intake Elbow and GMPP L92 Intake. It shouild will look like the last pick all done.

I wouldn't say $439.00 is an arm and a leg for the Edlebrock LS Xt intake.

Try this OBDII drive cycle

Dont forget the New! Edelbrock LS XT Intake Manifold. CLICK

As long as NV dose not go to a sniffer and sticks to the OBDII Im fine with the 25$ they charge for smog inspection. I pass with gutted cats, Big ass cam 232/239 112lsa, F1r, Vic Jr intake, long tubes, no Evap and so on and so forth. I do have to throw my MAF on though there is no way to work around that code. They dont even pop the hood or check for cats they just plung into the OBDII and if there are no codes you pass.

I have seen this happen with built tanny's on my silvy and Keiths they both short shifted us after they were installed.

Ok before we continue welcome to the site. Now how about a break down of what you have like engine, blower, tuning software, Gauges, fuel system, any work done to the engine, so on and so forth. From what it sounds like you have a GMC C3 with a LQ9 swap and a maggie?

I would recommend getting a wideband and swap out the narrow band then you can start tuning. CLICK

They are worthless for boost tuning. With a narrow band it is 0 volt-1 volt sensor. The way they work is it knows what 14.68:1 AFR is and can basically tell you if your above (rich) or below (lean) 14.68:1 AFR but not by how much accurately. Some people use stock narrow band o2 mv to with im not one of them. A wideband O2 is a 0-5 volt sensor and can read actual AFR from about 9:1 AFR to 20:1 depending on brand. I would only use a wideband for boost tuning.

No not with the procharger setup.

Gut them cats and put em back on, well thats the cheapest thing to do. You will have to live with the check engine light or have the DTC,s for the rear O2'S shut off with Hp tuners or EFIlive.

You can vent it to atmosphere if you like on the procharger setup.

Me and 2 buddies up here have FLT level 5's and we all run Redline Dex VI. My trans is over a year old and the Redline Dex VI still smells like candy and looks great.

Those are the post cat O2's. My guess there not getting hot enough. Do you have cats or high flow cats.

Here is the pin out click not sure which wire you need. I never tapped for nitrous but Im sure your nitrous window switch is 0v-5v ref. You could test either gry or lt blu/blk 5v ref wire while pushing on the gas pedal with the key on and watch for the volts to go up and thats your wire.

That is very well done, clean setup you have there.

What dose your exhaust consist of. For 1400.00 I pictured headers and full exhaust which would not work with a front mount turbo. Parts of your exhaust might work like the muffler back.

You might want to think about a blower since you just spent 1400.00 on exhaust. If your going turbo you should do a front mount and your current exhaust will not work.

The best thing you could do is pick a goal, build towards it and stick to that plan so you only buy parts once. So what is your goal?

Thats kinda spendy for a FPG. Im running Prosport gauges right now and so are some guys I know and we think they preform very well. Steve has had his for a year in his TBSS and they have worked flawless. I had autometer and switched. The fuel pressure gauge will let you set a warning so if fuel psi drops bellow xx psi it will beep and flash red. I also like the peek re-call feature. The wiring is really nice with pre-made little harnesses for daisy-chaining for power and lighting for multiple gauges. The boost gauge uses a sending unit instead of plumbing all the way to the gauge like autometer. Prosport gauges Last but not lest they are inexpressive.