Krambo

Its garbage. At least the stuff available at the pumps. I live on the boarder of NJ and PA so I fill up in either state. NJ has the special blended oxygenated fuel for winter (emmissions related) and my fuel trims show an obvious difference (same thing with the 10% ethanol blends). I get KR vs the standard Shell 93 or Sunoco 94 in PA. Anyway, I tried race gas on my combo last year but didn't advance the timing. All it did was cost me $20. If your tune is solid for 93 octane, just adding race gas doesn't doo much.

I want to start new projects this spring. I found a 2 Ty's local to me that are crap and have high mileage (over 125k) but they STILL want over 8K for them. These things really hold their value and they actually have increased in value over the past 2 years. I don't want to cut up a low mileage stocker but I really want to build a 10 second Ty and if this doesn't sell within the next month or so, I am pulling the motor and getting dirty. I am looking for 20psi and 550AWHP. Should scoot pretty good. Someone save this one!

Hmmm,... interesting ;)

Brian,...are you thinking of selling your current wheels?

Here she is: SOLD Any Questions, feel free to ask!

Yup. More boost with less heat, more efficient. The real "performance difference" is in effective and efficient boost levels on larger displacement engines. BUT, if I get my hands on one, I would do a stout forged 370 rather than the typical 408 and push the boost as high as I could go. Similar to what Chase is doing with the centrifugal.

Horrible? ! I'll take a 5.2 full sized truck anyday!

I was looking for more wheel spin

The earlier you do Englishtown, the better. That place is a Mob scene once the spring air hits. Mostly imports. I have been there on a test and tune day and got 1 run in in 4 hours. There had to be honestly 500+ cars there. Same goes for ATCO. If you want calm no stress 1/4 mile racing, go to Island Dragway in Great meadows NJ on a Friday night (street racing only). Anyway, if you do have a gathering,...I am there.

Cool little calculator: 0-60 calculator The whole website if full of great calculators that IMO could be pinned for everybody's reference. Click on back to calculators for more interesting on-line calculators.

I got my kit from MidAmerica (corvette superstore). It was a complete kit including a multipart epoxy paint and cleaner. It is very durable. I got my SS graphics from Autoguy and they have lasted a year without coming off. I got a couple of sets just in case though.

I like them.

You don't need a wideband to run this software. The wideband is only going to give you the most acurate AFR readings during a scan and can be a standalone or incorporated with the logs. The only thing you will "need" is a computer with the specified requirements listed on their site. The rest (wideband, electric FP / boost etc.) is just gravy. As you get more involved with the tuning and you start doing more extensive mods (blower, cam etc.) the WB and other goodies start being a necessity that you can add in later.

Ric,...LEVEL 10 in Northern NJ. Link ------> Level 10 Transmissions If I didn't have the FLT (highly recommended), I would go here based on rep and location. I believe they have off the shelf extreme duty 65E's with a warranty. They have the shop to do all of the work. Tow it there. Looks like a full race built 60E is like 2400.00 plus converter. 973-827-1000 So was it a quiet death or did she go out with a bang?

The Random Misfire Code is P0300 Tranny Code is P0757 The Random misfire is typical of a cam swap but you have no cam (correct?). Not sure what to tell you there but can adjust your "hit count" in that parameter of your tune. You can bump it by like 100 or so but it will not fix your root cause. FYI, I made my "hit count" or misfires detected, the highest allowed by the tuning program. Your tranny code I actually had happen to me. I had erratic shifting and it felt like it was stuck in 3rd gear. It corrected itself in about 3 miles but the tranny temp skyrocketed. This was on a stock tranny with a 3000 stall and bumped line pressure. Turned out that I had the famous cracked acumlulator piston issue. Here is some info for you: Service Engine Soon Indicator Illuminated, Transmission Slips, Engine Flare, Delayed 2-3 Shift, Shifts Missing, No Shift, DTCs P0730, P0756, P0757 (Replace Accumulator Assembly/Service Transmission) #03-07-30-005 - (02/12/2003) 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Express, Silverado, Suburban 2002 GMC Savana, Sierra, Yukon XL with 4L80E (MT1) or 4L85E (MN8) Automatic Transmission Built Between February 1, 2002 and April 10, 2002 Condition Some customers may comment that the Service Engine Soon Indicator is illuminated, the transmission slips, the 2-3 shift takes too long, or the transmission does not shift properly. Cause The condition may be due to an improper finish to the bore of the 2-3 accumulator housing, causing damage to the seals. Correction Important Verify the vehicle build date in GMVIS. If the vehicle build date is between February 1, 2002 and April 10, 2002, proceed with this bulletin. If not within the build date, refer to SI for diagnostic procedures. 1) Road test the vehicle with the transmission fluid and engine coolant temperature stabilized at normal operating temperature. Confirm with the Tech 2® that there is a delayed 2-3 shift (greater than 0.45 seconds), or no 3rd gear operation. Important INSPECTION OF A TRANSMISSION FOR EVIDENCE OF CLUTCH MATERIAL OR FINE METAL DEBRIS IN THE PAN DOES NOT A DIAGNOSIS MAKE. The transmission will have non-magnetic metal in the sediment in the transmission pan. The manufacturing/machining process of the transmission case creates a very fine aluminum dust, which when combined with the cooling/lubricating fluid turns to a paste. Even though attempts are made to remove this completely, some will ultimately be missed and will end up in the transmission fluid reservoir (pan). This paste will always remain in the pan. It can not be picked up and pulled through the filter and affect the operation of the transmission. 2) Remove the transmission pan and inspect the fluid. - If the fluid is in good condition, go to step 3. - If the fluid is burned, go to step 6. - If there is metallic debris attached to the magnet in the pan, go to step 6. 3) If the fluid is in good condition, remove the accumulator housing assembly and discard the assembly. Refer to SI Document ID #749332 for the procedure to remove. Assemble the new 3/4 accumulator assembly and reinstall the components. - 3rd and 4th clutch accumulator housing is P/N 8684220. - 3rd clutch accumulator piston seal is P/N 8661647. - 3rd clutch accumulator piston is P/N 8683088. - 3rd clutch accumulator piston inner seal is P/N 8661639. 4) After completing the repair, properly fill the transmission with DEXRON III® Transmission fluid. 5) Continue with Step 10. 6) If the fluid is burned or metallic debris is found attached to the magnet in the pan, the transmission will need to be removed and serviced internally. Important - All of the transmission internal components need to be removed from the transmission case assembly. The transmission case needs to be cleaned thoroughly before reassembly. - When reassembling the transmission, it is imperative that the original accumulator housing assembly is discarded and a new assembly is installed. - For transmission removal and installation procedures, refer to SI Document ID #758291. - For the transmission overhaul procedure, refer to SI Document ID #658951. 7) Inspect the Direct Clutch and Forward Clutch assemblies. Replace them as required during the reassembly process. 8) Before reinstalling the transmission in the vehicle, use the new Transflow Transmission Cooling System Service Tool J 45096 to flush and flow test the transmission cooling system. 9) Reinstall the transmission and properly fill with DEXRON III® Transmission fluid. 10) Road test the vehicle, performing multiple 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts from a cold start. Confirm with the Tech 2® that 3rd gear is present, and that 2-3 shift times do not exceed 0.40 seconds. Parts 08684220 = Housing, 3 / 4 Accumulator 1 08683088 = Piston, 3rd Clutch Accumulator 1 08661639 = Seal, 3rd Clutch Accumulator Piston Inner 1 08661647 = Seal, 3rd 4th Clutch Accumulator Piston 1

Hey Krambo, most of the guys over there are pretty cool and will treat you with respect. But like most forums, there are a few that think their poop don't stink and talk crap. Your truck should be able to give some of them a lesson on modded Chevy's, including mine, if you run 11's. It's good they know that there are trucks out there besides SRT-10s that they need to worry about............ I totally agree. I have been lurking on that board with another screen name for about 2 years now. It isn't about who's truck is faster,...its about the hobby of performance modification. I enjoy reading all of the fourms (except the titan forum ) and seeing what cool things are out there. I am a bit bias'd to American vehicles so if it is from any one of the "big 3" I am all over it. Not too fond of the import trucks at the moment. I was SOOO close to buying a Gen2 but backed out at the last minute because I needed the extended cab and that is when the SSS came out. ...just wished the SSS had the performance of a gen2 out of the box There is alot of knowledge on the lightning board for Radix owners that you can't find on this board. Being that the Radix and the Stock Gen2 blower are so similar, you would be amazed on the little things you pick-up here and there.

I would get her to temperature so that you exceed the adaptive idle parameters (set-point temp) and see what happens. You have a 160 in there correct? Did your tuner ever drop the minimum "learn" temp in that cell to like 150 or so? Otherwise you may never get to the set-point. Keep us posted...

Well, who was this? Black SSS vs. GenII Lightning Just curious...

I cut out the tray and then used a sturdy piece of steel cut to size of the opening. I then cut the gauge hole, covered the entire plate with 1/4" foam and finally with black vinyl. The finished plate was set in on the bottom (wedged very tight) and the top protion was "pulled" tight against the opening with cable ties tied to the posts where the lights are. Using the foam under the vinyl acts as a forgiving pad which hides any imperfections and looks more factory than a hard piece of plastic. I may redo my overhead to house 2 gauges. I do miss my cool sunglasses holder though

Well, when I had your mods only, I was doing high 14's so I am impressed with your numbers. Even with a cam and UD pulleys, I struggled to break into the 13's.

I believe Manga states something crazy like 80K but I was "forced" into changing it at like 5K I believe and it was black with fine metal particles in it. I got the oil from Magna when I had my snout rebuilt. It was a nice slear to slightly golden color vs the black crap that came out. Search on here as I posted pictures a while back...

A long time ago, I had my stockers powdercoated... My stock powdercoated wheels I have since sold them. I just wanted something a little different.

I made my own. My overhead gauge

My max was 315 in high school (14 years ago!) God, that guy was crazy. I am still more impressed with the strong man competitions on ESPN.

I wouldn't think the tune would differ "that much" from the 112 to the 122. You are using different injectors and obviously the 122 has a different efficiency map but other than that they should be somewhat similar I believe. I would think once you nail down the fueling, the rest of the tuning is the fun stuff (spark etc.). Keep us posted on your results!