Krambo

Yea, I have no problem keeping it trust me. It is a fun vehicle as with most 300HP AWD vehicles. Once you do a boosted launch, you are addicted to them (Sy, Ty's). Not too many people know what these vehicles are and the ones that do know, rarely see on that is stock or have relatively low mileage. I'd say that about 10% of the people I see actually know what the vehicle is. I originally wanted to do a all out modded Ty with about 550 - 600RWHP. The SSS kind of took most of my time and extra funds but now that the SSS is done (for the most part) I have the itch to do the TY. Again, I just feel bad cutting up a nice original.

Send AUTOGUY a PM for SS graphics to put on your calipers. Its the finishing touch!

More pics.

Well, snapped some pictures of the Phoon. I have had it for a while and it is a fun alternative to driving the SSS, turbos are addicting! I originally bought it to mod the hell out of it and have it cover the 1/4 mile in 10 seconds but this Ty is bone stock and is in too nice of condition to destroy. She has 55K well documented orignial miles and a host of maintenance records with a clean title. Just passed PA emmissions and safety inspection with flying colors! Way too much new / rebuilt items to list,...a documented $3,000 in replaced parts (tires, breaks, complete front end, shocks etc.). The only non stock item is the stereo which is just a drop in and can be removed within 5 minutes. I have never taken it to the track which is real tempting but this is a collector worthy example and I would like to keep it that way. Number 2331 of 2400. Open to serious offers but if I don't sell it,...its my next project

I did the "UCOAT-IT" brand. From all the research I did, they were the best "home brew" kits made. It is a multiple layer epoxy. 1. Etch the concreate with muranic acid and wash 2X - fill in all cracks with special filler 2. base coat + AL oxide anti skid (3 part epoxy) 3. after 24hrs, the color coat with your designs (vinyl flake, graphic inlays etc) (3 part epoxy) 4. after another 24hrs, the top gloss coat (epoxy) (2 part epoxy) The final result is beautiful and is tough. I run my snowmobiles across it with studs and it didn't tear up. What eventually did start flaking it up was the great antifreeze / salt / grit from 2 winters in PA. Even then it is minor and can be patched. They give a good warranty but I never bothered to look into it. I have the install video if you want it. Send me a PM. To do a floor that will outlast you home, you need to do a multi layer terrazo which is anywhere from $25 - $35 a square foot. I don't have a great pick of the floor with all of my graphics in it but hear is a teaser:

I agree. A 160* Thermo doesn't cut it in sub 0 weather. I haven't driven my truck in a month. Anyone live in Oswego NY? 90 inches of snow this week! Awesome. I am going snowmobiling up there tomorrow and Sat. Can't wait!

Just under 1200 for mine installed (not that it is hard to install) Bruces Speed Shop in Rockaway NJ.

Hmmm, never heard of it. please do tell more... Benefits? Price? where to get it? Ahh, wish I kept the sample I had. The wire is made by a foreign company using the federal mogual "Twist Tube" material. They incorporate a layer of this twist tube stuff with the ultra pure stranded copper. The twist tube material has been out since late 03 but only recently incorporated in the make-up of the wire. The benefits are for people using blue tooth technology / WiFi in their car really. It just totally prevents any interference with that stuff. The oxygen barier is just for corrosion protection and has shown a slight improvement in electrical transfer over long distances. IMO, not worth the cost but I feel it will be the norm in the future cars. The Twist Tube shield functions just like the "foil" you see in some wire. The twist tube material is much better in that it is very flexible and will not tear like the foil and has a greater RF interference tolerance. An internet search may turn something up. It is still pretty new. Edit - here is some info on the twist tube stuff but I can't find anything on it being incorporated within the wire. I know it exsists,...I had some on my desk!!! Twist Tube

To do it properly, you will need to scale your table due to FP variences during a WOT blast. I would suggest a WideBand to hone in on commanded vs. actual. What values did you enter in your IFR table? Did you reference the "RedHardSupra" IFR sheet that everyone tends to use? Here is his website ----> Good tuning links Go to the injector set-up and enter in your values of the green tops at the rated FP and then add your FP and the sheet will do the calcs. I am not sure if you will need to adjust anything with Idle or not using these injectors. Going off what others say, no, but I am not a pro tuner,...just a shadetree mechanic. I have a set of green tops sitting in the toolbox awaiting install as well.

HA! Koga,...haven't heard that name in a long time. He cracked me up. During the 98 world finals he came up to us and told us to adjust the excursion on the strokers to 5/8" using the set screw. It did nothing. Seeing him "intoxicated" was a sight I swear his eyes are going to pop out of his head! Anyway,...BACK ON TOPIC. I plan on doing the big 3 upgrade with an optima in the future. I have used Stinger wire in the past however is anyone going the extra mile and using the new radio shielded oxygen barier core stuff?

Cool. I built the first 2 sub WRH as well. We took the title in 99 as well (Team Hertz). 1999 world champs You may also know how we get rental vehicles and build the competition car the day of the show under Carlos Alexis Lopez's name from PR. Since it costs so much money to bring his car over here, we use equipment given to us by the manufacturers. Its alot of work but the fun is there. You must also have a good relationship with John Fairchild since you were sponsored by CV. Did he design your enclosure? John is a good guy and I applaud his efforts with the stroker but there are much better drivers out there now. If the high frequency tones (over 200Hz) was still allowed, the stroker will be king. Do you have any relationship with Jay Lovelace? If you do, I want to know what he sprayed in his cabin in 98 during the final run. I have it on video and it is terrible. I have since gotten out of the hobby since it is really a small area. When it stops being fun, you know it is time to move on.

Dump the capacitor. It is totally worthless unless you want to remove A/C ripple from your alt to improve SQ. The cap is fully discharged on the first hit of the amps and just adds resistance to your set-up especially with the level of capacitance you are using. Others (as well as you) may disagree however I have had alot of R&D with caps and large current draw audio systems but do not want to get into this right now. If your head unit dims upon a "bass hit" you may wish to pull the ground wire from the wire harness and ground it to the "firewall" at a length of no more than 18 inches with a heavy gauge wire. I am not saying you shouldn't have a HO alt or even an external adjustable regulator, as I feel they are necessary at a certain level, just stating my opinion. Please do not yell. Not sure if you recall who Alma and Patrick Gates are but they had some 50 1 farad caps for their SPL Bronco that were just for show (had nothing to do with their functional system). Rockford insisted in their sponsorship that they display their products wether used or not ;) Go to a triple point dB Drag racing event and look/talk to anyone who has been doing it for a long time and ask their opinion on caps. You will even see most do not even use fuses,...we didn't either. While you are at one of these events, talk to Wayne Harris and ask him his opinion on capacitors in this application,...while you are at it, ask him how he designed your cap and what the intended application was really for and what RF marketed it for. Good luck with your new alt, did you get an adjustable external regulator?

I guess I got a well made piece then. Its been 2 years and I am not exactly "easy" on her. There are other options, search the forum and you can find others that use different tensioners.

I would suggest a larger bank of batteries rather than a HO alt.

Well, going off memory,...I see misfire codes and some TCC codes. I say clear them and see what happens. Good chance on damage but I am not sure if the PCM will recognize a D-R shift while in motion and prevent the shift from even happening.

Do it right the first time since your are pushing alot of HP.

Just sold mine last week for $75. The guy I sold it to is selling it because he chose to go carb instead. Do you want his E-mail? He actually lives in CA too.

40HP over sotck IMO. The tune is 75% of it.

You have your priorities in line. I would do the same if needed. Enjoy each day, you never get them back...they grow up quickly.

I totally agree. My brother owns one and it is quick. He can outrun my stock Typhoon so I an guessing it is a solid high 13 car stock. From a 50mpg roll, a stock SSS will not have a chance. On a launch, you will get them for about 300 feet.

I can see myself getting into that.

Its common boss. Do a search in this forum and you will have a ton of reading material. FWIW, I have never had the noise in the front end. I am on my 3rd front diff oil change as well @ 40K.

Well how did you do? Girl or Guy