2003_SuperSport
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Posts posted by 2003_SuperSport
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I don't really see the need for a 3 bar sensor unless you are making more than 20psi of boost... As a 3bar sensor will have less resolution than a 2bar and most low to medium boosted engines don't run more than 15psi anyways... A 2bar sensor is good to around 200KPA above atmospheric pressure which is around 100... So unless you are maxing out the 2bar above 200KPA there is no need... My kpa only gets up to about 175 at 9.5-10psi of boost and is plenty readable for accurate tuning...
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Meth is great for boosted vehicles! I'm not sure why more people don't use it?
Me either....
... I have ideas why some chose not to, but for the price of a good simple kit why not. My specific mods list and application it is perfect for it... People spend money on alot of other dumb Sh*t like TB spacers and cosmetic stuff, so why not for only $250-$300... I know NO2 is way better for cooling and HP gains NAWWWWSSS..... But for me it would cost about $1100-$1500 for a kit I am comfortable with on my maggie truck...Some reasons I could think why people say its not good are: Myth 1.) They see no gains with it. (This I agree and disagree. You need to have it properly tuned for meth because it acts as extra octane under boost thus allowing you to add more timing or maintaining current timing which is normally pulled due to high IAT's which is where you gain or otherwords not lose HP... It would be like adding racing fuel to your car and expecting a 50hp increase LOL. For a rough estimate it is aproxamatley 1% gain or loss for every degree of timing.) Myth 2.) The cooling effects are not as good as people say or company says it is. (This is also depends on what forced induction unit and company you are using, for instance a mp112 will benifit alot more than would a turbo or centrifugal supercharger due to the huge amounts of heat a mp112 is known for... Once again another aproximate figure for temps is every 10degrees above ambiant you lose about 1% hp, so the higher IATS your charger or turbo run the more you lose due to timing being pulled by the PCM... For example if you have a 500hp motor running 10 degrees above ambiant at 1% loss it would equate to 5hp loss, and if you're a typical maggie user at 180's IAT at 80degree ambiant 100 degrees above at 500hp would be 50hp loss which is horrible and if I can save even 30 degrees on that that is 15hp I won't lose and more due to extra timing I can use due to octane which could be as much as 30-50hp saved or gained which to me 50hp's for $300 is a good buy for me as a CAI only nets about 10-15hps and cost the same) Octane helps maintain timing due to higher IAT's and meth and water displacement of heat is better than gas itself at dissipating heat... It's a no brainer for us guys and gals running older maggie superchargers until we can afford a small shot of nitrous LOL... All in my opinion and personal experience with meth so far and by no means are these set in stone figures but hope it gives you a better Idea in the dicision of meth...
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Even if your not in New England what sleds are you guys running I'm running a 2001 srx 700 with lots of bolt ons that I bought from a guy I worked with back in 2007 still a grin from ear to ear at wot
Whats up Yammi SRX brother LOL... I have a 1998 SRX 700 with a ripsaw track, viper suspension and 196 studs, wiesco pistons and slightly milled heads, v-force 3 reeds, bender and hauk clutch kit, lower chain case gear, stinger 3 into 3 silencer (which sounds Bad A$$), Intake air box mod.... This is one fast sled now but was never slow to begin with as you know being an SRX rider, especially the slightly faster 2001 year... Anyone who knows sleds still fear to this day of the all mighty SRX's... Im not a Cat guy but the 2003 Firecat F7's are no joke either but break all the time from my experience...
I have been meaning to buy a new sled but my old SRX is just so comfortable and fast and payed off, I can't seem to part with it...
My wife has a Ski-Doo 2000 Milenium Edition with 2500miles MXZ black and chrome 700 with a 2" paddle all Stock but also Torquey and fast...
I also have my first sled a 1978 440 exciter in good shape still besides the bad crank LOL...
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I have battled High IAT's for awhile now and recently this last summer installed a meth kit... Using a 50/50 mixture I have seen 30-50' reduction in IAT's and much slower rising of IAT's under spray and boost... I have my kit comming on at 6psi... Before meth on a 80' day i was seeing IAT's 185-205' climbing within seconds at WOT but with meth I am seeing 155-175 and takes much longer to rise that high... Plus the added octane under spray helps with detonation and alowing a little more timing advance... Downside is constantly refilling my one gallon washerfluid resovoir lol.. I would recommend using the washer resovoir or getting one bigger as its not hard to get into boost and spray a ton of meth... The 2 quart kits are not enough at all IMO... So i went with a DevilsOwn kit which taps into the exsisting washer fluid resovoir... Also I have installed but not used yet a larger intercooler resovoir tank as the OEM one from magnusen maybe holds a quart and my new one can hold over a gallon plus the maggie one... For $250-$300 for the DO kit its worth it IMO and I am still trying to dial my tune in slowly due to the added octane...
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700miles is to much for these rare trucks to be putting on every week... I have never had alot of money but I always saved and upgraded as I could afford to... I had a $700 92' delta 88' that drove as good as a 
and had a sound system, Had a little bit of rust, but put on over 40K with reg maintanence before I sold it with 220k miles for my next DD a 2001 buick century, then a jeep wrangler and now a 2006 SS Impala lol... So I went up the DD ladder but I sure still miss that 92' olds LOL... You can look like a bum during the week but look like a rock star on the weekends LOL... 
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Pm'd you bud..
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Darnit, I want a kit for my 03' SSS... What does it take to convert it to a 03' system and is it a wet kit?
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For the people in Northern part of US. Excessive Motorsports in Sioux Falls, SD is an AWD Dyno. And good people to work with.
Ray aka Supersub in minneapolis is putting in a AWD dyno to this spring I beleive
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It depends on how much knowledge you have and the time you want to spend on tuning.
I use EFI Live, but a majority of the tuners use HP Tuners. I have a buddy who uses and only used HP and was riding along with me while I was tuning with EFI Live and he was amazed at the difference in the two. He actually liked the features and ease of EFI Live compared to HP.
EFI Live offers a unit called AutoCal and that is a logging device used by your tuner who uses EFI Live. You get a mail order tune, Log the truck with the PIDs needed and email the log to the tuner. He goes through the tune and writes a new tune and emails it back and you do a reflash. Not all tuners with EFI Live do this, but there are some good ones who do. If you are new to tuning I would suggest this or having someone do a live tune since your tuning with boost.
You can also get HPTuners pro suite and datalog and upload a new tune emailed by your tuner with hpt as well... I use HPT myself and this is how I receive new tunes from my tuner instead of mailing my PCM out everytime I change something... Having your own cables for data logging is a must IMO for any vehicle making big HP's... Autocal is nice for EFI because it can store multiple tunes on it for different driving conditions (great feature for Desiel rigs) but the process is the same as HPTuners if you have the pro suite... Hptuners can also data log without a laptop through the cable box as it now features a record mode as long as you have your PIDS preset in the box... When it comes down to it... EFI is better for desiels while HPT is better for GM gassers and supports some ford models as well, all my opinion of course...)
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You'd be crazy to swap a big block 454 for a small block 6.0L... Yea the 6.0L are awesome motors but so are the 454 as they are TQ monsters... Those 90's 454's are indeed TQ monsters but sinfully slow in the 1/4... But a big cam and heads, intake and those 454's are turning 13's-12's in the 1/4
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Lucky dog to get an SSS overthere
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LMAO C7 stingrays in the 70s??? We have them around here for low to mid 60s for all the goodies and the ZL1 are in the low 50s. If you shop at the right dealer a ZL1 can be had under 50K.
I don't understand why anyone would ever get a ZL1 unless you were just a RB with money to burn for the vin number and badging... All a ZL1 is, is a 6.2L (same as in the SS) but superchrged and a few little other parts and its almost 20K more... I would take a SS Camaro and spend 6K or 4K on a used TVS2300 pulley down and make more HP than a ZL1... and have 14-16K left over to cam, heads, nitrous, anything LOL
Same goes for the vettes.... Why buy a ZR1 when I can buy a stingray and supercharge it for less than 10K and make 600+HP... I understand you may be paying for lighter weight but I beleive the stingray has come along way to be close in weight to the ZR1
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Welcome aboard and let us know how that air ride work on your truck.. I have to assume its awd if it is arrival blue because there weren't any 2wd arrival blues SS's made.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
All 2003-2004's were AWD....
And Patrick congrats again on the ride... If you ever need help modding that pig let me know, I have done alot to my truck just look at my sig
... Also if you ever find your way up north look me up or PM me and maybe we could hang out.... If its winter I won't have my truck out though LOL... Its to nice and rare for me to be drive it in the harsh MN winters... I bought it down south and still looks absolutley brand new inside and out and underneath, as I have never driven it in the winter up here... But It would make an awesome winter truck IMO... If I could get another for a DD I would 
and I just might do that LOLFYI- I know there is another member on here that is in a wheel chair and has done some cool stuff to his truck. I beleive he even has his chair lift mounted in the back too, and has done most the work himself and its Supercharged LOL...
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Welcome from MERICA!!! You are truely blessed and lucky to get a SSS in Europe and even luckier to find a Intimidator, like winning the lottery lucky in Europe... Guys here in the US have a tough time trying to get an ISSS's yet alone you finfinding one overseas... Take good care of her and if you have any questions about these trucks look no further... There is no better place for answers on the SSS than this website... I would trust the experienced members on this site about this truck over any GM certified technican at any stealership, for one they are rare to find and two alot of techs especially in my area have never worked on them or very rarely worked on them even though they are almost the same as a MAX...
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Thx SuperSport.......been up there sledding a few times. Awsome country up there.
Just got 16+ inches of snow the last couple days too... I am itching to get my sled out now...
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Bueller?... LOL One of my all time favorite movies....
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Welcome bud from Grand Rapids, MN....
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^Now thats true love for the ole SSS... Go for it bud... This is why I would never sell my SSS cause I would feel the same way if I sold...
Good Luck in finding your dream truck again... -
I don't really understand how you felt a big difference in him tunning out the cats, unless he replaced the bad cats or gutted them and even then having cats and no cats are hardly noticable in an upgrade unless they were indeed bad and throwing codes causing the PCM to pull timing thus performance... And its not necessarily tunning out cats rather than tunning the PCM to read the rear ones as running perfect all the time thus passing emissions test or OBD2 tests...
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Stupid IMO... Can't imagine it function very well and all that money to weld them together and get everything to run in sync and all that custom cutting... For the money he has it that thing he could have made a 2000hp motor and finished the car completely... But each there own and thats what building custom hot rods is about trying to do something noone else has done... But just because you can do it doesn't mean you should...
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I really dig your black rims and the red lip.... IMO looks way better than those 24's in chrome... (24's to big for me anyways) But it also looks like those 22's have a better recess too as the 24's look like the rim sticks out way too far... Don't get me wrong those chrome rims are a great design just need more recess for me and in 20-22's... But everyone has there own preference... But once again I love those black rims...
Also that tread looks sick you could darn near off road with them and it looks good still to be a sweet street road lol... How do they grip in dry and wet payvement(better or worse than the street tires?)
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I wouldn't ever do it to a sport truck designed for the road but this thing was done right and makes me think twice everytime I see it... This is the only SSS I have ever seen lifted that looks good to me... If I could have two SSS's I would keep mine as a track truck and this one for a DD LOL
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Once you fix your "poodle problem"
... You will finally start seeing some 9's hopefully for PSI on that 2.8" Just start the truck and climb underneath her and feel around near the welds and bolt ups... You can even use a lighter to find really small leaks lol... Dont forget to check the headers themselves to make sure its not a gasket... If no leak is detected use the brake cleaner method around your intake... Let us know if it helped you or not... -
Got a new project.
in My New Truck
Posted
Thats a sweet truck... I'd keep the chevy orange color with black trim as well as the rim size... Not a fan of offroad trucks with big shiney fancy rims...