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2003_SuperSport

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Posts posted by 2003_SuperSport

  1. Well pulling the trans for a 3rd time to change the stall isn't an option for me right now since my Brother got transferred and I don't have a lift to work on it anymore. I think my next best option is to put some smaller rims and tires on it for the track next spring. I'm guessing that would shave .2 off my 60'. As stated earlier, the 305/40/22's are hurting me. Once Lonnie finishes my e85 double pumper fuel bucket so I can get the tune dialed in AND change out the 3.3 to a 2.7 blower pulley, hopefully I'll hit mid to low 11's

    Just check your stall lock up... I used my hptuners software to determine my stall wasnt locking up at my requested flash... When doing a log take the truck out on a open stretch and start from the dig... Do a brake stall up to about 1500 rpms and hold while scanning and stomp on the gas while releasing brake run up to 100mph... do it a couple times then go to your scan and read it... you'll see the mph go from 0-5mph and when the stall hits your mph will climb in less than .5 seconds to above 15mph... Where the truck starts moving above 0-5mph is where your stall locks up... Mine was doing it at 2500-2700 so therfor I knew my stall flash was off... I had it retuned and the stall then hit a 3400-3600 now... I have a 3000 stall in my truck but due to the supercharger and other mods it stalls higher... Your stall should be the same if not higher if you have a 3000 stall or more... Its worth looking into and I dont think its your current converter... good luck If you have Hptuners I can send you one of my scans so you can see what I mean on reading your stall...

  2. Thanks Brian. Yeah, she's not quite dialed in yet because the AFR is off. It's consistently flash stalling just under 3k, like 2950 if I remember, and trust me, I told PI to make the tightest converter possible for my setup.

     

    lol, it's funny how everyone notices those damn mud flaps but me. They were on the truck when I bought it and I keep forgetting to take them off!

    I agree with Brian you need more stall... Probably in the tuning... I have a 3000 Stall in my truck and with the radix and mods I am stalling around 3300-3500 at launch... Before tweaking the tune it was stalling around 2500 but now it lights the tires and rips out of the hole... Try to get it flashing higher and you will be impressed...

  3. I think it would! Hell, I'll race anything but racing another heavily modded SSS would be awesome! Weather.com says it's supposed to be in the 60's with 0% chance of rain and 62% humidity. Those conditions should make for some nice boost too! A few weeks ago I took her out in the morning when it was 70 degs. with my 3.8" pulley and saw 8psi, so I have no idea what to expect when I slap that 3.3" on there...maybe 12 - 15? What part of Minnesota are you in? Have you ever even got a 1/4 mile time on yours?

     

    50% off w/Military ID James :omg:http://hpt.com/

    I live about 2 hours from Canada LOL... Northern MN... No one I mean no one wants to race me not even the rich pipeliners with there diesel rediculous lifted trucks and shiney rims with bigger turbos and tunes lol... Everyone else is a teenage ricer that I just accel normally and dust them or a 60 year old man with a retirement corvette or camaro. It's actually really funny cause everytime I pull up to a meet or a car gathering everyone is allways whispering and pointing, its like the grim reaper has shown up and everyone just steps back and gauks... Just walking through the crowds I have heard people say stuff quietly to eachother like "you know that thing is supercharged, and that truck is unbeatable lol... I just snicker and walk away : my truck is not all that fast low 12's maybe high 11's... " It just sounds bada$$ with the cam and the mp112 with a 2.8"pulley... The servo and shift kit hits very hard too... What really gets people is when you open the electronic cutouts and the truck sounds like a 60-70's loper muscle car...

     

    If I had a car trailer and a big enough truck besides my 2007 colorado I'd seriously think about it... My SSS woukld cost a fortune in gas to get down there at 12-13mpg hwy and 0-8 city lol... Plus if something broke I'd be screwed... Nitrous not installed yet but next spring you bet your A$$ I'll be ready and if you want to make a trek up north to Brainard international speedway we can run them and if you want you can follow me home and we can have a few beers and go fishing for the weekend lol...

  4. i always run 93 didn't plan on running meth yet maybe in the future just 93 octane with the stock block and for now stock heads

    Yea at 15psi and 93 octane I think you'll be just fine... with meth you would be able to run a few more degrees of timing before knock but a more conservative 93 octane tune will do fine... Meth is good for a slightly cooler intake charge but the gains come from added octane thus more timing= more HP, especially for places that don't have 93 like Alaska and most of Minnesota (this guy right here) LOL... At 15PSI be sure to have a large enough fuel pump and injectors... 42#'rs may be surpassing the 80% threshold which is where you want to think about upgrading to 60#'s or 80#'s...

  5. idahoblkss was pushing high 20s but like said its all in the tuning

    Agreed^ I think it was low to mid 20's but 20's regardless is high for any stock engine hence why these LQ9 iron blocks are better than any other 6.0L... Like mentioned the key is in the tunining and proper fuel like E85 which is cheap and high octane but burns roughly 30% more, but who cares, if your pushing 20psi or more your not concerned with fuel economy LOL... I personally wouldnt run above 20psi without race fuel or E85...

     

    My personal Minnimum guidline would be-

    0-12PSI Premium Fuel only 90-91Octane

    12-18PSI Premium fuel 92-93Octane with Meth injection 50/50 or 100%alc

    18+PSI Race fuel or E85 100+Octane

     

    Which is also taken in consideration running stock heads at 10:1

  6. Just use a 2-4 ton floor jack minnimum... and 4 jack stands... Lift front up with hydraulic jack on a center crossmember as close to front as possible usually between the a-arms is good... Then place 2 jack stands one on each side on the frame near the front tires... For the rear you can jack up the back center under the rear differential and then place two jack stands one on each side under the rear axle or similar spot on the frame close to the rear... WARNING!!!!(NEVER RELY ON A HYDRALIC JACK ALONE TO SUPPORT A VEHICLES WEIGHT!!!!!!!) Always use jackstands...

     

    FYI- place jack stands at equal height and slowly lower hydralic jack as to not slam the truck down on the stands. Once rear stands are in place also release pressure on hydralic lift until the truck is sitting with most of its weight on the stands but you can still leave the lift in place until the rotation of tires is complete and its time to jack up and lower... The truck doesnt need to be 8 miles off the ground either just enough so that they freely spin or you can see a little bit of daylight under them

  7. Your bigger displacement higher psi cammed motor. Vs my smaller displacement blower cammed motor with a small 100shot of nitrous. Hmmm. Would be a good race I think lol.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. I bought the carport for storage... Just havn't finished it yet... I have both sides up, just need to finish the back and install a garage door on the front... I used to store my truck about 15 miles from where I live at my fathers Shop in a fully enclosed industrial quonset hut. But he also stores boats and RV's and I was sick of moving my truck in and out in the fall and early spring... My truck Once touched snow on her shoes because someone wanted there boat out in March ERRRRRR... LMAO

  9. NOT ME!!!!! LOL... My truck would be in prestine condition... Rust holes arggg those poor trucks need to be put down like a lame horse.... haha... My truck isnt perfect... It has a few knicks here and there and it sits under a carport with a cover so it does get exposed to the elements sometimes if the wind is blowing... It does need a profeesional buff and polish... Any Takers????

  10. No problem at all... I hauled a big U-haul trailer with my couches and Motorcycle in it from Jacksonville North Carolina all the way to Northern Minnesota non-stop 24.5 hours through the mountain passes of Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky... Hwy 77 to 64...At the time my truck had full bolt ons and a tune... It was a blast to drive and had plenty of power to make the steep grades even with the 4-6k trailer...

     

    These trucks have a similar engine as the 3/4 tons do but with a little more power and the transmissions are awesome if you are close to stock with full bolts ons being the limit... Keep in mind these transmissions the 4L65E are still an upgrade from the normal 4L60E found in other trucks and LS cars

  11. Where were you 2 years ago LOL... Just for whoevers interested, what vehicles have you unlocked already... AWESOME deal on this for whoever is intersted in tuning thier own vehicle or monitering and sending data logs to your tuner... This is a must buy for anyone planning on doing big upgrades to their truck or car... FYI for anyone intersted in buying this, it will require only 1 more credit to tune at $49... or free if its the same vehicle or vehicles that Dave has already unlocked... GLWS....

  12. MP 112 and done

     

    But that depends on your budget. Let us know what your budget is so we can point you in the right direction.

    Agreed ^^^ Best bang for your buck and is a complete bolt on and go kit with a tune of course... A used mp112 in good shape goes for $2000-$3000... A cam swap will run you about $1200+ unless you do the labor yourself and thats only a gaurentee of 30+ hp while the blower would be good for 120+hp depending on pulley size...

     

    -Nitrous is also a good bang for your buck and a 100-150shot is said to be easily handled by a stock block and fuel system... $500+ for a good kit... and is the cheapest hp- money unless your using it all the time and then the bottle refills will get ya in the end...

     

    If I could do it all again and my goals were to be a stock block running 11's I'd go exhaust+ misc like e-fans,plugs,wires-then tune-then transmission-then blower+heads-then Cam-then gear ratio if wanted-finally meth or nitrous

  13. How bout you get rid of the heat pump and solve the problem all together... sell the heat pump get some real FI.

    I would absolutly love to upgrade to a larger TVS2300 or a procharger D1 or F1 but I just dont have the extra 3k to spend... I could save up for 1-2 years instead of throwing 500$ every 6-12 months at my truck lol...

     

    Keep in mind when I got this heat pump it was praised upon as a great charger for its low end TQ and the TVS was not out yet... I had this put on back in 2007-2008

  14. Just saw on Rays facebook page that he is now offering a brand new phenolic spacer with nitrous ports for us older magnusen guys... With the spacer we get the efficiency that we lost due to massive heat soak issues on there poorly designed heat exchanger soaking heat from the block.. With the nitrous in the spacer we have the option of a safer and faster shot that will yield impressive gains when used along side a heat soaked maggie... I have my nitrous kit just waiting in my basement ready for a an install... I was deciding whether to go TB injection or shark nozzle... Now this comes out and viola I get 2 upgrades in one package... lol

  15. As long as you wash them regularily you wont have a problem, which in the winter every time its sloppy wash them which is weekly here in MN with each snow fall lol... I dont drive my truck in the winter so I dont have a problem with them, but If I were to drive my truck in the winter (which is all theoreticle cause I would never do it lol) I'd use a good paint sealer or as much as plasti-dip is hated on this site, it is a great way to prtect them if you do enough coats... I have some chrome rims on my colorado that I will try to plasti-dip for the winter just to try it... I have never done it but I have seen it done and it looks to hold up well for the price...

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