inquenciocha

I love reading how everyone who has a close box system is getting upset. You all bought the system well knowingly that you are getting air from one location. With the open system, it's going to get air anyway and anywhere it can. If anything we were at a disadvantage because air isn't being forced in through the front and around the headlights. Yes, air comes in from the front and helps circulate the air in the box. Now I'm sure the hood being open helped a little but probably not much. Nothing beats air being forced in at 50+mph. You don't believe me... check out this pic from the CAI thread. My thanks go out to 12'SROCK and everyone who sacrificed their time, intakes and most importantly their trucks for this experiment. I'm sure it was a fun weekend.

Before the headers I had an Airaid CAI w/TBS, a custom PCM tune, MSD 8.5 wires, Flowmaster 50 series as well as 3" cat back and yes I kept my stock tip. I also use Royal Purple for everything. I know it's a little expensive but well worth it. For everyone about to install your Dynatechs, check my post for some helpfull pointers. #37 http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.ph...30&start=30

I went from a 14.71 to a 14.53... enough said.

I'm running two 12" P3s and let me tell ya... I wish I put dynamat under my headliner, it rattles a bit. If you can, I would suggest doing a down fire. I've got mine firing into the seat which I think it might be muffling the bass a little but the girls love it.

I use to every 3000 with my old truck but with this one the other side is clean. So when I say I rotate, I do it 180degrees after 3000. The less oil risk to the MAF the better, them sh!ts are expensive! BTW, I was talking about the tube, not the filter.

Thanks for the info. I might just have to pick it up next month.

Before I did my research, I first installed the AEM BF because it looked great. A big chrome tube to anything it'll look nice. That's where I think they get you, they got me. After research, the big round tube creates allows too much turbulent air, which restricts air flow. This led me to a K&N or Airaid. So I went Airaid and yes I could tell the difference even before my TBS and reprogram. The airaid for our intakes give a little bonus and yet a pain. It allows air to come through the gaps of the headlights and hood. It's good cool air straight into the box, yet it gets your air filter dirty in one area more than the rest. All I do is rotate every oil change. Check out the pic, that's 3,000 miles. That's also 3,000 miles of not cleaning the motor, so please no wise cracks.

I'm running a BD500 with my stock bose system. I was told that the system runs at 2ohms and in order to connect an amp you had to install a wire to av adapter. That's where I was told the connection is bad. I've had mine pushin two 12s for about six months so far with no problems. I posted a topic/question about the Rockford 360 to see if someone had use it. That might be a possible solution, keep an eye on that. Good luck

Has anyone delt with the Rockford 3SIXTY.1? I've asked around to see if they're worth it and no one gave me a streight answer. I'm just curious if it's a good solution to keeping my Bose 6cd deck and speakers, as well as steering wheel controls. I already integrated an amp for my subs but I hear this could be a better way to go, not to mention make the speakers sound even better. Has anyone tried this with stock equipment? Any info is appreciated. Thanks in advance. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...mp;locale=en_US

I recently finished installing some Dynatech Supermaxx Headers & High Flow Cats and let me tell you, not an adventure I want to relive. Before installation I suggest you get them ceramic coated. I had them painted black to help dissipate the heat better, at least that’s what I heard and it looks much cleaner. With a little retuning, the truck sounds and runs like a dream. Yes, it was one of the worst seven hours I’ve went through and they’re a little pricey but well worth it. Tube/firewall spacing wasn’t an issue. I have more pics if interested. Be sure to read the instructions first, they have some helpful tips. I ordered mine through summitracing.com but had to deal with Dynatech customer support, good people. The headers were shipped with the wrong wiring harness and w/out header bolts. Dynatech shipped them out free of charge, ask for Ray… Thanks by the way. Some Extra Tips: Before tear down check the O2 sensor extension provided with the D-side REAR/after cat O2 sensor harness. I have two different O2 sensor harnesses, before and after the cat. For AWD, you’ll have to drop the driveshaft to install. Don’t forget to completely secure the harness up and out of the way of not only the cat but also the driveshaft. Keep the driveshaft off/loose to help with access to the last header bolt. If you don’t have a lift, find a friend who has one. I did mine in my driveway and my neck was screaming by the end of the day. Don’t worry, it can be done. If you don’t have break free for the stock collector bolts be prepared to use your handle from your jack stand w/a breaker bar and be prepared for a good time. Come time for header alignment/installation, get a friend to either feed the header through or finger thread a couple bolts. If your headers don’t come back from coating with plastic wrapping, wrap the headers in a couple trash bags while feeding the header through the frame and motor and tear off when done. This will help to keep a good looking ceramic coat/paint job. Stuff a rag or towel in between the area where the tubes come together. I had to take off the D-side header to fish out my elbow and 10mm socket, not fun. I used the clamps provided but I recommend using better ones or squirt some hi temp RTV in the clamp crimp point. Exhaust tends to leak from there the most and the whole clamp doesn't really secure around the edges. P-side after cat clamp is going to be a little tricky, play with it to find wrench access. I put mine at the 9 o-clock position. Depending on spacing, you might have to put a support bracket on the D-side tubing after the support frame. This will keep it from vibrating on the support frame. Three wrenches that are a must; 17mm, 15mm and 14mm ratcheting wrenches. You don’t need them but they’re nice to have come tightening collectors and clamps. Have fun

Stay out of AZ, they don't need a radar to prove you were racing. Here in Phx they have black Mustang GT's running around, they'll fool ya. It sucks because I love the way GT's look in my rear view mirror.