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benjaminh2

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Posts posted by benjaminh2

  1. the fluid pressure manifold is a prob on these transmissions, sediment gets deposited on the switch contacts and can cause all sorts of shift timing issues. its easilly acessible with the pan off, just to the right of the filter, attaches with 3 10mm bolts, and 2 8mm bolts, has a flat 5 or 6 pin elec connection.

  2. everyones invited :thumbs: up to you if you wanna make the drive or not. by way of an update, no cruise night tonight, friggin weather has screwed us again for the 3rd week in a row. also pm me and/or call me before you come down, we're prob gonna just do it once a month through the entire summer, every friday gets to be too much. i'l continue to post updates. thanks for showing interest guys :driving: hope fully the weather cooperates next week.

    Ben.

  3. for any of you mass guys interested, Eastcoast KustmRydz and myself, are hosting a cruise night here in worcester every friday night (weather permitting) from 6-9pm. we have everything from old school muscle, to exotics and riced out low riders. Seamless Custom will also be there for anyone that wants some ideas, or an estimate on custom interior work. pm me for directions.

  4. i know shell and chevron are on GMs list of approved top tier fuels to use. not many chevrons here in the northeast, so shell is the best option for us. its hard to say what affect these additives have on a motor, the idea is to prevent carbon deposits on valve stems and pistons, and allegedly help with lean misfires that GM had such a prob with. i've used a lucas fuel additive about once a month since new, and the idle quality in my truck is better than almost all the 6.0 k trucks that i service. i agree with the other guys, i wasnt the cause of your op failure.

     

    edit: keep in mind too, who knows whats lurking in a gas stations in ground tanks, water, sediment, i'm sure all kinds of crap. so it may not nessacarily be the brand of fuel, but also the station itself.

  5. it could be a bad gas cap, more than likely it needs a evap vent soleniod. the solenoid sticks partially open mimiking a leaky gas cap. it would have to smoke tested at a dealership or qualified repair garage to know for sure though.

  6. 1. raise the rear of the truck and secure with jackstands under the axle.

    2. disconnect shift linkage at trans (it just pops off with a screwdriver) and shift truck into neutral. make sure front wheels are chocked to prevent truck rolling away.

    3. remove all 13mm rear diff cover bolts and let diff drain

    4. remove wheels, calipers, rotors.

    5. spin rear diff, untill the diff pin bolt is facing you, and remove it (8mm)

    6. remove pin, push each axle in untill the c-clip falls out, i usually stick a small magnet in there to grab the clips

    7. slide out axles, remove old axle seals, unhook old e-brake cables. i usually brake the old cable retainers with a hammer, its faster/easier.

    8. unbolt old backing plates (18mm) and remove.

    9. reinstall everything in reverse order. :cheers:

     

     

    this is important, make sure you get "loaded" backing plates, they come with new e-brake shoes.

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