ss454327

I never understood the whole roll racing thing personally. With a truck you're advantage is from a dead stop given most have better gears and more TQ than most cars. From a roll it would take a monster of a truck to run with something like an SRT-8 charger or LS1 car. Crap even something like a Turbo Cobalt or an SRT-4 Neon would be a handful in a roll race.

As long as you're in the studs you'll be good.

That's me! How does it sound to you?

I logged all my runs at the track and AFR was perfect. It was tuned with a wideband doing some pulls on the street.

These trucks tow as well as any of the 1/2 ton trucks do and with a bit more pulling power too. That's what's great about the SSS....it's still a truck you can use as a truck. I think the book on my '05 AWD said I could tow up to 8100 lbs.

Hopefully this PC bullshit will be put aside so things like this never happen again. Regardless of race, religion or creed someone as unstable as this guy should have been removed from duty long before this happened. Keep up the good work...it is appreciated!

Reminds me of a story... My dad called me one morning and offered to take my kids to daycare for me so I got them all dressed and my dad came in and got my little boy. I grabbed my little girl and headed out the door and just then dad turns around and says "Watch the steps, they're iced over." Just them my little girl bucks back on me and shoots both feet out from under me and I do down all 4 steps right on the end of the step *thump thump thump thump* and slam ribs first into the end of my railing and somehow don't fall down. My dad runs over and grabs her and notices my shirt is ripped open when I turn around. Somehow I survived with no broken ribs but I don't really know how as there was massive bleeding under the skin in a large area. Everyone wanted me to go to the ER but it really wasn't hurting that bad.

So no advice as to how to get back some MPH? I know a cam would get me there but I'm going to shoot for the fastest bolt ons AWD SSS first then go for the cam only, then go with some heads. I might do a Fast 92 and swap all my accessories since that Fast truck intake looks like shit on paper.

Lamb of God-Wrath, Sacrament Clutch-Blast Tyrant, Strange Cousins from the West, Robot Hive, Pure Rock Fury, Beale Street Hank III-Damn Right Rebel Proud Gojira-The Way of All Flesh

I don't think they have any left though.

I just read the whole story. They weren't on a call, had no lights on and the car that was filming was going between 66 and 72 mph while the car that hits the kids is going 94 IN A 40 MPH ZONE! Looks like they were playing around when this happened. Those parents are going to get paid but no amount of money would replace my children...

$3000 is a bit steep for an LQ9 IMO. Depending on the mileage I wouldn't go over $2500 and even then you'd be better off with the LS6 since it's starting off with 405hp if you put a bone stock intake on it. Bolt up some headers and a FAST intake and she'll be even higher. You could even sell the cam and buy a bigger cam and probably be aroun 400 to the wheels at that point.

Just a heads up but Scoggins Dickey had a few long block LS6 motors they were selling for $3115 + $129 shipping. http://performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=451216

Where's my toaster?

If you're looking for some performance gains Flowmaster is terrible. They don't fare well at all in flow or actual dyno testing. I went with the Hooker Maxflow when I upgraded my exhaust and I couldn't be happier. Granted I did a dual 3" to single 4" setup it's really deep and quiet. The Hooker Maxflow flows just like strait pipe too. There is a test of a bunch of mufflers at LS1tech and the Hooker maxflow was 3rd on power yet still 2nd quietest. My setup is very deep and smooth sounding. The only time it gets loud is on WOT pulls...that's when she screams like a stock car!

No I actually changed it as it was locking right at the beginning of 3rd gear and lugging me down a bit.

What can I do to get my MPH up? My cousin thinks the stall could have robbed a bit off the top end and the headers and exhaust brought it back to where it was. I gained a little over a MPH with me driving but that's not much. I know a lot of guys run slower ETs than me but much higher speeds. I'm going to wait on a cam until I see if I can break the bolt ons record. I know running the 16's at the track will get it down quite a bit and I might even do roller rockers with the UD pulley. Maybe pull the back seat out and go all out just for one run!

DA was 608 saturday and -2200 on the night it went 14.30 and 14.50. Corrected time was 13.75.

Well I hit the track saturday and had a blast. The truck did the times I thought it would but I didn't get a perfect pass as I drove all the passes. The previous best my truck has gone with me driving was 14.50 @93.24, with my cousin driving (he's about 140lbs lighter) she did 14.30 @ 94.91. I installed ARH LT headers with dual 3" pipes Yd into a single 4" with a Hooker Maxflow muffler and a Circle-D 278mm 3200 stall. Slight change in the tune but nothing major. We actually had to bring down the shift points since the stall was going a little too close to the limiter for my taste. Other than that we verified AFR on a couple runs and added a little spark to certain RPMs. Anyway my cousin didn't get to make any runs so we're working from a previous best of 14.50. 60ft-1.8371 1/8-8.7041 @ 78.53 1/4-13.8259 @ 94.92 My next plans are a UD pulley and some 16" wheels with my cousin driving...should be a very very low 13. I'm shooting for the fastest bolt ons AWD SSS!

I just installed a set of ARH LTs with catless dual 3" pipes Y'd to a single 4" with a Hooker Maxflow muffler. It's actually deeper and quieter than the stock system with a flowmaster drop in. I really love the low thump it gives off at idle and so does everyone that's heard it. Also the Hooker Maxflow flows the same as strait pipe so you won't give up any performance.

Just a heads up about the Circle-D I suggested for you. I can't launch from a dead stop without spinning all 4 and she RIPS off the line. 1400-1500 rpm drop between shifts and she drives fine. Not as tight as stock for sure but only about 300 rpm higher to do the usual moving and shaking. I'm very impressed with it so far for $350 shipped. They're $375 shipped these days though but that's still a killer price for what you get. They make one a little tighter that would probably be better for most as this one is fairly loose. I can brake stall to 3200 and it flashes to 3700.

While I agree with you, GM never recommended Autotrak II in the NVG-149. I'm not saying it won't work, I'm just pointing out what is suggested by GM now. I didn't mean to scare anyone just help some people who might be having trouble finding what goes in it. The MTF is cheaper than the AT-II...

I think the difference in performance is negligable. Volant is a closed system and some people get a better peace of mind with them. Personally I use the AEM brute force dryflow setup and love it.

Just a little more information I dug up on this. GM stopped using the DexIII after '06 and switched to the MTF stuff in '07. The GM part number is 88861800. It's called Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid.

Just a heads up here but GM does not recommend the Autotrak II for the NV-149 T-case. I actually went looking for some fluid today to change mine and they now use a manual transmission fluid and it's not Dextron III. The guy at GMPP pulled my vin and said the AT-II is used in everything EXCEPT the full time AWDs. I verified for myself and went with the MTF that was suggested.