ss454327

What about Performabuilt? A lot of the guys on LS1tech run them and are very happy.

I'll try to get some sound clips up when I'm all done!

Almost done...I'm not very efficient but I only really had my wife as help and I was doing a stall, headers and full exhaust at one time. The worst part IS removing the old exhaust. I only had to go through 3 blades though as I picked my spots to cut very well and actually left the manifolds attached to some of the exhaust (that actually a good tip!) The transfer case wasn't really a problem and the transmission wasn't as bad as I was thought. I took my time and worked on it a little here and there. She fired up today and sounded very nice. It's MUCH more free revving for sure and the sound is amazing. Dual 3" into single 4" has a nice deep tone and the Hooker Maxflow muffler sounds great! There is less rasp with the new system than the crap that was on the truck when I bought it. The only thing left to do tomorrow is route the drivers O2 sensor and put the drivers side wheel and inner fender back on.

So how do I get the transmission down to where I can pull out the stall and put in the new one? Pull it back just a little bit then drop the front strait down? I have a transmisson jack so I won't be in a bind doing this. If that doesn't work do I have to pull the transfer case?

How did this go? I've been working on mine a couple hours a day for the past two days and I'm just now to the point that I got all the old exhaust off. I knew to spray everything down with penetrant ahead of time so all the bolts that I needed to undo just came right off. I only had a little bit of time yesterday so I focused on taking off the front wheels and removing the inner fenders (MUCH easier) and today I broke out the saws-all and cut all the old exhaust off (PITA!!!!) I did find out that my O2 extension are not the right ones. I got the square ones because I knew the rears were square and it turns out this truck has some trapazoid shaped front sensors and NOBODY carries anything like that. I'm probably going to have to do some cutting and soldering (YIKES) if I need them. I might not though as the ARH headers seem to have the O2s in a good spot but I'll know for sure tomorrow. I'm doing a stall install at the same time so I did spend some time dropping the cross member. Also a little heads up to anyone looking to install headers, remove the metal flashing from the driver side manifold to get to the rear bolt without too much trouble. I went through the fender and removed the flashing and used a sqivel joint 13mm socket and a 2ft extension to get it loose. Also remove the oil dipstick BEFORE you even think of removing the passenger manifold. Don't ask me how I know! If anyone can give me a breakdown of how to get the torsion bars out of my way so I can drop the tranny I'm all ears!

DOH! I need to bolt me on a 440 LS7...then bolt me on about 16psi.

The only one on that list that is bolt ons only is OUT2WIN with a 13.80 and he had some weight reduction. The only thing I will take off is my tail gate and that should be fair as I weight around 285...

I'm not going to make any guesses as to my times BUT the 14.30 that was pulled in my truck was with a very mild tune (only opened up PE to kick in, raised rev limiter and set shift points). No spark was added and we didn't do anything to any fuel tables. It was also getting a ton of false knock and pulling up to 8* of time at the top of 2nd gear so it was falling on it's face. We fixed the tune after we left the track that day because my cousin was working on several other tunes. It honestly pulls WAY harder down low now and shifts better and pulls all the way to the top. I can run neck and neck with my buddies 5.7 Tundra and he's almost in the 13s now. The stall should be good for .3 and the headers for a tenth maybe 2 with an optimum tune...I'm also doing a really open exhaust.

Will do! Should be in the 13's with a 1.8x 60' on stock 20's with a little tuning at the track... I'm hoping for the fastest bolt ons only AWD SS! Only one more thing I can do and that's the underdrive pulley.

That's what he told me it would stall to and he's sold plenty of them to guys on another forum and they put down the numbers. It's actually a common converter for LS1 guys so it's fairly well known to do the numbers. I'll let you know ASAP...going to install everything and go for a new tune and hit the track next weekend. Oh and sorry it's a 10.5"

Personally I don't think you need a 9.5 as much as you need a different brand. Circle D said mine would stall to 3200 and have a 1500 rpm shift drop. I started on my install of my stall, ARH headers and dual 3" to single 4".

BLAH...Shogun did not clearly win this fight. I'm a huge fan of both fighters and I must have been watching a different fight than some people because I thought the decision was right on. Rd 1 was close but Machida actually came forward and attacked more than Shogun. Every time Shogun landed anything Joe Rogan had to pull his nuts out of his mouth to comment on it. What he didn't mention was the left strait that Machida landed almost every time Shogun unloaded his right leg. Rd 2 was IMO clearly a Machida rd as Shogun went to the legs and ate even more punches for his efforts. Machida actually landed more knees to the body than Shogun in this fight and caught Shogun much more in rds 3 and 4. The only rd Shogun clearly won was rd 5. The first time I watched it I gave rd 4 to Shogun but after watching it 3 more times today I think Machida won 1-4 and only gave up rd 5. If it wasn't a 10 point must I would give rd 1 a 10/10 but since it's a 10 point must it was SHOGUNS job to TAKE the belt from Machida and he clearly did not go out and take his belt.

Fishing is my hobby and I've tried to slow down on how much I spend on it but owning a boat is expensive. Anyone that does not heed the warning that boats are a money pit will learn VERY quickly. I'm on my 3rd boat in 4 years and I actually have this one up for sale so I can buy another one. I've blown one motor ($4300) and just recently lost a lower unit and mid off another motor so I'm in the market for a motor ($5500-7000). I figured if I'm already looking for a motor I might as well sell the boat and get another one to put the new (used) motor on...

Personally I think that's BS but that's the way politics work. John Lingenfelter (RIP) was behind the wheel of an 1100hp ECOTEC when he crashed and I remember reading that it was still using the stock head (I'm sure ported to the max). He was very impressed with the ECOTEC motor and to me that means something.

I gave $16k even for my '05 AWD with 40k miles...and it was VERY clean when I bought it.

Those turbo Cobalts and Solstace cars are tough with the right mods and the right driver. I've seen several with just a manual popoff running 20psi and race gas on a tune turn mid to low 12s with no other mods.

4.99@124 in the 1/8? CRAP!

He looked young too...I have known several young people that died in fast vehicles because they had more money than they did sense. At least he lived. That was an early lesson my dad taught me about power...it can get away from you QUICK.

They're not all supercharged. A bone stock 5.7 Tundra Double cab will beat an SSS with a tune, CAI and exhaust pretty much all day long. They can get into the 13s with headers, CAI and full exhaust.

You'll also get a low coolant temps code popping up.

I think Carwin is going to get the KO on Brock. The shot Gonzaga caught him with would have knocked out most anyone and he recovered from that easily. Brock will not stand a chance standing with him and I think Carwins counter wrestling will keep in on the feet where he'll eventually get the KO.

Sounds like you're getting some false knock at the top of 2nd gear. Mine was getting up to 8* of KR right at the 2-3 shift when I pulled the 14.30 and I was running almost 95 then. I also had no spark added at that time since we only had a chance to tune it once at the track and we got much deeper into it the next day. After we got the tune right it would spin the tires on dry pavement if I stalled to 1200.

I'd go with the ARH headers over the Dynatechs as they're about the same cost and much better. I'd also go 1 7/8" with true 3" duals. After that a good stall from somewhere like Circle D would get you in the 13's all day long. These transmissions don't last very long with anything over stock power so you'll need to either budget for that in the future or replace it before it blows and leaves you stranded. I'm shooting to replace mine in 2010, hopefully before it goes on it's own.

I was talking about him keeping it AWD...I'd get a Strange 60 if I were trying to put 800hp to rwd.

4L80 and I'd just run a girdle on the rearend and not worry too much about it.