8 UR HMI
-
Posts
1,959 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by 8 UR HMI
-
-
Yes the had exchanger creates cooler air but in the high heat of summer some ppl have problems with 150* iat's. Depends which blower u choose too. I myself would never use a roots blower but they do make power.
-
Where do I buy one? And how low does it go on the truck? Does it cover all of the cladding?
-
i have the cal cover as well and as dan said any cover will cause some form of scratch or rub marks from it flapping in the wind.only way to protect a car outside is by putting it inside.
oh it will be. it sits in the garage every night but when i get my dd its gonna sit in the garage under the cover all the time unless i feel like taking it for a ride.
-
ok well now that my old dd is gone (got it for 500 bucks and it blew up), i will be getting some form of a piece of crap since my brother bought my tahoe. still keeping the truck but for my 21st bday, my dad decided to buy me a beater. im gonna wash and clean the ever living crap out of the truck including wet sanding the front bumper cladding to get all the waxed over bugs lol. then i need to put a cover on it and she will b in the garage as a slut.
what cover is a good one that wont scratch the paint and will fit over the cladding?
-
magnuson supercharger. a roots style blower. replaces factory intake manifold and forces air into the motor.
-
the last one is a RBP (rolling big power) i know a bunch of those guys. they are pricey as fvck but good kits.
-
the radix are good kits but they are heat magnets!!! procharger has an intercooler setup rather than an heat exchanger and u dont have to worry about taking hp to make hp as much as the radix because the IAT's are much lower
-
http://speed-eng.com/store/pacesetter-lsx-trucksuv-long-tube-headers-coated-p-7619.html
end of story. i have the painted ones and they warped BAD!!!! im getting the coated ones cause they are cheap and my buddy has them and they dont leak at all.
-
now its doing it at idle in park, i can put my ear against the winshield and hear it, but when i put my head against the hood (checking for it to be the motor) i cant hear it. i know its not a screw or bolt losse because it doesnt "rattle" like one.
-
5 pc billet, cleared headlights and chrome emblem.... gotta b someone who knows whats up. oh also different chrome 20"s
-
shes seen 137 running out of road... gotta love cam powerbands and rpm range!1
-
im running the walbro intank and the radix inline boost a pump. i never see below 57psi at the rails.
-
Possibly the steering column slip joint. Very common on these trucks......
Also, noises can be very deceiving. I had one that sounded like it was in the a-pillar...I tore the dash apart trying to isolate it. Turned out to be a metal tag on the radiator support that was buzzing at hwy speeds! good luck
i just thought of that. it does it at idle, and only in gear...... but i have noticed it to be louder when i turn but it sounds like the center of the truck rather than the steering slip joint..... idk. im going back to the shop tomorrow that did the work after changing tires so they will have to realign it since its not right to begin with
-
shoot man ill drive to shiner, its like an hour and a half from here, go to the brewery, grab a few cases fresh off the line and sell them cheap!!!! )what do u say 75 a case?
hahaha. everythings BETTER in texas -
y dont u put the ring in the box on the bridge and tell her to look, when she looks, be hiding somewhere and see what happens. haha..
-
how much do u want for urr 228?
-
ok heres the sound ive been trying to figure out. its not motor knock cause it doesnt do it all the time and it is ESPECIALLY loud when i run over bumps. it started the day i got my truck back from the driverside front hub assem. but the sound, sounds like its coming from the dash but i pulled the radio and listened and its hidden. i cant figure it out. my exhaust isnt loose, theres no bolts loose, i just cant figure it out. any ideas? im gonna take it back to the place that did all the work since my alignment is off (they aligned it and the truck shakes at 62mph. ) so im gonna make them diagnose the problem if i cant figure it out.
-
factory interior direct. its cheap and comes solid. u have to cut ur own holes but that way they are perfect.
-
In all honesty, turn down the gains on your amps. The gain control on your amps are only to boost / match the input signal with the audio source and have no impact on amplifier output. If you crank your gains, you will be clipping your signal anyway which will show up on a RTA if you have access to one. Without getting into the specifics on how to match signal gains from one amp to another and then to the signal source using a RTA and test tones, just lowering your gains will do wonders for noise. If this doesn't work, you have a true signal interruption somewhere.
do not use boost or anything along those lines. match the GAIN with what ur subs outputs are minus a little. the bass boost is a joke and kills subs faster than anything. u will see a big diffenence in quality of sound as well as the whining u hear. also, the big 3 is very easy, i havent got around to do it but its def a helpful thing. after that ground ur radio or head unit to the metal brackets under ur steering wheel where the bottom dahs piece mounts. that is welded straight to the frame. scrape a little paint, run a ring terminal on the wire and use self tapping screws. very simple. ground loop isolators are a HUGE joke. -
Garage sluts rule.
Sound - I would have to drive it in person. Just to be sure, remove the main accessory belt and take the truck for a 90-second test drive (when cold) and see if you still have the sound. Also try a test run without the A/C belt. At least eliminate the accessories as suspects. The issue may possibly still be your converter (internal failure). Lemme know how it goes on the road to/from MS. When you say oil do you mean engine oil from the front of the engine oil pan? We may have not completely sealed-up the front timing chain cover.
Mr. P.
im not driving it to mississippi. yes oil but its not from the cap. ill check to make sure its not that as well. i think its on the front of the pan underneath the center of the motor. also ill see more when i get back about the sound.
-
* PCV Valve #E5ZZ-6A666-A ($10, Ford dealer only)
* Spectre Valve Cover Filter/Breather #3995 ($13, O'Reilly Auto)
Mr. P.
gracias senor!!!! im going to mississippi this weekend for my moms 50th bday so ill do it next week after my test. also for my birthday my dad is buying me a 1500$ beater car for school so the truck will finally be a garage slut. im gonna get new lt's as well along with a catchcan so hopefully all of that will be good. im still trying to figure out the sound. its not my converter. all 3 were tight. im also leaking oil barely from the pan somewhere or maybe just the drain plug but there is oil on the front of the pan so who knows.
-
Hey steve send me the part number for the ford pcv valve
-
btw i put this in the wrong section!!!!
-
hey guys im wondering a few things, i have seen oil on my plugs and have burned oil in the past but dont notice it anymore. im wondering if my valve seals, (which i swear we changed them with my cam swap) are bad or just oil in the pcv system? i have seen lots of oil in the vacuum lines especially from the top of the manifold to the rear driverside pcv hose.
What Do Yall Think About These Headers
in Bolt On Performance
Posted
Yes all pacesetters have the egr. I had mine cut off, ground smooth, then welded and ground smooth again. I wouldn't do it to the ceramic coated ones but for painted u can't even tell mine was cut off