Cramer

Well I tackled the LED's lastnight. I did blue. Cluster, light switch, and HVAC controls. I think I have a needle or two off a little so I will hook up my EFI Live to check them when I get a chance. The only prob I have is my heating control power light and recirc light keeps going out and then back on. I have them soldered in good but I don't know if the connection on the board is good. I will pull it back out and try it again when I get a chance to do it too. I love the look of the LED's. Thanks for the write up.

I was thinking about going to that with my 3 yr old and a buddy of mine. I was thinking on going on the 28th or the 29th. I have to work on the 27th. I live about an hour and a half away and I get off work at 6:30 am. I would plan on leaving my place at 8:30 and getting there at 10:00 - 10:30am. Let me know if your going and we'll try to meet up.

Did you see the shock ends on the front shocks? No bolts or brackets on it still? I wonder if they brought it in a trailer and had to take the shocks and wheels off to transport it and forgot to put the bolts back in. I doubt it would have sheared off three bolts.

Can you give me a little more info on how to make sure your gauges are calibrated before and after you do the dash? I will be doing the dash tomm and I am only leary on the needle positions. Thanks.

Wow! I could have used this two days ago. I reconnected my TB coolant lines that were bypassed and caused my truck to run like crap at low rpm's and idle. I did this in my parking lot at work with a temp of 1* and in the -'s with the wind chill and then one of the clamps stripped out on me and caused coolant to pour out of my TB when I was on my way home from work. I had to fix it in a Wal-Mart parking lot with a LED flashlight in my mouth and hands and arms situated in ways I didn't think they would bend. Needless to say this would have helped a ton.

I was just talking to my wife today about getting new personalized plates (BLU BLS) "BLUE BALLS" but I am worried about getting the g@y new plates.

That looks kick a$$!

I have used this method (welding with extractor rod to a nut) many times with good success. I am a certified welder and it is easy to do for a novice. Since you have some thread left you won't have to build up the weld as much so you will have a better chance of getting more penetration on the nut. I can look and see if I have some laying around if you have access to a ARC welder. You can bend the rod so you can get into tight places with it to. just make sure you cover your firewall with something flame resistant and keep a fire extinguisher close by. Here is the link to how to do it and how it works. http://www.lawsonproducts.com/website/main...bolts_studs.pdf

Love your truck. Especially with the throwers. I have been looking for an old Mack to do the same to it.

I put these on my truck. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-SILVE...=item20aeb9167e I also put on some ceramic pads and I love it. I could feel a difference in stopping and less noise and no brake dust. BTW you can choose different styles and three platings. Go to their website and see which ones you want and when you buy the rotors (if you do from them) send it in the instructions. They sent me an e-mail right after the auction to confirm my selections.

Yeah I don't know about the whole "just attach them with silicone" deal. If you do paint the calipers don't use the duplicolor brush on ceramic disc brake kit they have. It sucks. Just get some high temp spray paint the color of your choice and let it fly.

That sucks to be the car owners. Hey I might find me a good deal on a "fixer upper"!

Sorry to hear about the news. Your family and your grandmother have my prayers.

I wanted to make one for mine to and wanted to contact the member that made one for his to ask some questions.

If you are serious about getting in shape and want some help with it go to www.teambeachbody.com On the homepage of the site the guy on the left is one of my good friends and he is a true success story with the P90X. They have people who will help you as a coach and pretty much be your personal trainer. They can answer your questions. My friend that was mentioned above was in the running for a million dollar prize for the P90X competition they had.

That might be my issue. I heard it do that when the battery was almost dead and I had it off. I thought that it was doing that cause my battery was dead. Also today I turned off my truck with the CD player playing and when I started it up it was playing the radio. I will have to look into that more. Thanks Mr.P.

I installed the alarm about 2 months ago and about three weeks ago is when I started to have the problems with the no start dead battery. The amp is connected with the module to bypass the oem sub and all that and the amp light stays on but that has been in the truck for 4 months or so and haven't had a issue with it since then. I just took the fuses out of the power wire to the amp and the power wire fuses to the alarm out to see if the truck does it again. Last night I did remote start the truck for about a min and then I remotely turned it off just to see if it would start and it did. And that was after two days sittiing. I know I had my radio, gps, radar detector, and heat (turned all the way up) on. I heard that if you turn off the Remote Start and don't open the door it will keep things on for about 15 min. Is this true, or do the accessories turn off?

Ok I have been having issues with my 5 month old battery dying on me if I don't drive it for 3 days or so. I have recently installed a alarm/remote start combo but I don't think that is my problem. I can watch my alt gauge go from a little over 14amps fluctuate to about 12.5 or 13 amps when I come to a stop or hit the brakes with my lights and heat on. I had 2 different Advance Auto stores check it out and one said that he wasn't getting a reading from the alt and that it was only charging at 6.35 amps and my gauge said it was around 14. And the other said that my alt was charging at 14.5amps. The alt looks to be the original which has around 135k on it. The belt also is worn and I have a new one for it but I didn't want to put that on if I had to change the alt. I also have an amp wired up and I don't know if it is drawing the power out of the batt when sitting. Has anyone had similar things like mine happen? If so what was the cause?

This may be a dumb question but if you pull the front shaft for a dyno pull are you only getting 62% of the power to the rear wheels. Or does it go into "hump" mode when doing a pull? If it does run in "hump mode" how do you know it's at 100%? I have no tuners around with a awd dyno and was thinking of doing this but didn't know how accurate it is with pulling the front shaft.

"My SS is in the shop getting new BAER brakes installed so I thought I would get a work out by riding my bike to get my bikini wax."

I used to be a test engineer for Delphi Automotive. I tested all the Wheel Hub units for every manufacture and prototype units. There were numerious tests that these hubs went through, and different failures from different types of tests. I saw failures from 20min tests with axil/radial loads, among many styles of hubs. The best thing and only thing you can do is to keep the seals and ABS area free of dirt and water. Don't spray a direct high pressure on them with air or water in this area as it can inject objects into the sealed area of the bearings. As stated above it depends on driving habits, aftermarket wheels, ride height, and alignment to prolong the life of the hubs. I have tested some that from the factory were loud for a bearing hub assembly, and they lasted 120k+. It's the luck of the draw when they do go out. When you have to replace one i reccomend doing both at the same time if funds will allow.

Ok this has been bugging me since I bought my truck. There is a fog light switch on the dash next to the dimmer switch. What does this control? We have no fog lights, and the switch has wires and everything. I wanted to add some fog lights behind the air ducts, and use that switch to turn them on and off but I don't know what the hell it is wired to if anything. If someone can help me out with this I would appreciate it.

Your Xk-06 is an immobilizer bypass. You need a combo Bypass/ door lock interface module. Here is the site with yours listed as a Immobilizer bypass. The XK-01 like Zachman89 or the DLBP-GM like me are the ones you will need. http://www.bypasskit.com/wizard.aspx?vehic...amp;yearid=2004 Take it back to Best Buy and tell them they sold you the wrong one and hopefully they have the XK-01 in stock.

I am about to so a cam swap, and I want to powder coat my brackets, timing cover, and valve covers. I want to do them before I tear the front apart and swap out the old with the powdercoated parts. I am looking for the PS/ALT bracket, Timing chain cover, A/C bracket, and Valve covers. If anyone has some laying around and wants to get rid of them give me a price shipped and we'll see. Thanks.