turboed ss

Yes it is the pass key that's causing u problems... But here is something else to think about... if ur running an aftermarket alarm like a viper w/remote start than it may not be working properly... The same thing happened to me... The pass-lock bypass something module that came with the alarm is what was acting up.. I too kit back to the stereo shop they replaced the module and the problem went away..

I agree... i live in florida so driving off road or on gravel for me is just out of the question... I'll walk i mile bare foot in gravel before i drive in it so i should be ok with the oil cooler... Do have that link u talked about on ls1tech by chance...

u r the second person in the last 2 days that has said that to me... I started thinking about it yesterday and i probably will do it after i get the motor fixed..

thats what i was thinking...i love both of my sts kits...

GEE... I wonder if i can do that with the truck??? U bring the beer and ill try it!!! That was sweet!!!

i had the same problem. Mine turned out to be the motor... If u take off the motor and open it up there will be a wire that is broken or has a bad connection... Its an easy fix u just have to open the motor up... Mine was a broken soder point so i just resodered it and it still works fine.

1 of my favs was... I was hanging out at a sat night cruise in with the hood up when a ricer walked up asking questions about the truck and my sts kit. After about 3 or 4 mins of good questions he said to me y run a turbo cam if the trucks not turboed and it cant be awd b/c its lowered it must be only 2wd... So I responded with "i know a guy that was running a turbo cam in his honda and i liked the way it sounded so i bought one, and it has front axles so i thought it was awd" he says "no, that doesnt mean awd that just means its fwd"..

my first kit was a brand new from them and it took me about 4 days to install it properly i put about 30,000 miles on the kit with a 5.3 that had 100,000 miles and never had a problem with the kit just the amount of power it made... It was a bone stock 5.3 with a 67mm turbo and it made 399hp and i think 469tq which is great i guess for a stock motor but i wanted more... With my new kit im not having any problems with oil return or with oily charge pipes just the lack of oil pressure now and i had really noise valve train that i think was a lack of oil pressure under the covers... ill be taking it apart soon and we will know for sure then what was really goin on...

like what kind of problems this is my 2nd sts kit and i haven't had any problems with ether of them... unless the oil feed causes the oil pump to work harder than it should plus the to heavy of oil i was running

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I'm selling a set of Trick Flow Twisted Wedge alum Heads.. They have 202 ss valves, I'll provide the cc's later I have to go get them checked, springs good up to .600 lift hydro flat tapped... Selling b/c they wont work on my new project... will post pics later... Asking $700 Jeff 904-838-8277 Im in Jacksonville, Fl so please not past 11pm est.

I'm sure the metal is out of the motor and not from the filter... I used a filter cutter.. Looks like a funny looking pipe cutter so it just slices the top off the filter and doesn't cut it leaving any shavings.. From what I understand Texas Speed did the motor but it was a yr and half or so ago so they have no record of it.. I don't have a build sheet or anything on it... Even thou I don't want to disassemble the whole motor it is probably a good thing b/c now i can find out what is really in it, install a new high pressure oil pump and than I'll be ready to turn up the boost and make some real power.

Yea that's all i use is castrol 10w30 or napa (Valvoline) 10w30 synthetic in all my other cars but my valve train is so noisy... Its ALOT noisier than stock and after talking to and letting couple local performance shop hear it they agreed that somethings not right about how noisy it is... I just figured it was the oil and not the pump... But if it was the pump getting weaker that would explain the noise caused by a lack of oil then when i put in the 15w50 it made the noise alittle better b/c there oil would stay in the valve train longer but it also made the already weak pump work harder, causing it to finally get to the point that it cant maintain good pressure.

well ill be pulling it out probably in the next few weeks and ill find out what was damaged is... I hope that its nothing to serious but well see... so what weight oil would be ok??? I'm just worried that between the turbo and the motor both making so much heat that it will thin the oil out to much...

I was thinking the same thing about the pump but way would i have the metal in the filter with out any knocking noise or any broken parts unless i caught it in time... A bad oil pump would also explain the really noisey sawing machine valve train... But that brings up a new question. Y would an oil pump with worst case 20,000 miles go bad...

I was just driving casually.. As a matter a fact I never even made boost.. It was a long day and i didn't feel like doing anything but getting home... Ur right the oil pressure would be high not low idk what i was thinking... The reason for the thick oil was me living a Jax, Fl. with the hot weather the oil was just thinning out so much that i was having really really bad sawing machine noise coming from the heads.. After i went to the thick oil it helped a lot.. I was thinking that with the thick oil it may have caused the oil pump to break or just wear out prematurely maybe causing all this...

Yea I'm sure the metal wasn't from the filter, they were so small that making out a color it almost impossible with out a lens. As far as i can tell the metal has a silver, or aluminum color to it. Im just hoping i got home and shut it down before i did any real damage the rotating assembly.

That sucks I raced a black one and the only thing he saw were my taillights.. We went from a dig... I was running 8lbs of sts rear mount.. You must have just caught him in that sweet spot.

So I have a 05 ss awd w/ a 408 and a 76mm sts turbo kit... I currently am under the impression that I have spun a bearing but Im not positive yet so please help... Here's what happened: I leave work fire up the truck at idle i have 40psi oil pressure so i let the truck warm up as normal. I drive home about 20miles, 30mins with normal oil pressure. I get home and shut it down everything is ok... The Next Day: A cold front moved in and it was in the 40s when i started the truck. I noticed that the truck was idling at about 18psi rather than the normal 40psi but I just figured it was the fact that it was cold and i'm running 15/50 full synthetic and a qt of the Lucas oil stabilizer. I was running late so it only warm up for a few minutes. I start down my 1/8 driveway and i notice the oil pressure moved a little but not like it should have. I pull out babying the truck until i notice it had warmed up 200+ but the oil pressure still refused to go above about 21psi even under small acceleration so i get maybe 1/2 mile from the house and i decide its a problem that's not going to just go away. I get home putting maybe 1 mile on the truck with the low oil pressure. Conclusion: My next day off I decide to remove the oil filter and cut it open to find it full of metal. No large piecing like something had broken but rather ALOT of small tiny pieces causing the inside of the filter to appear as if was metallic like a paint job. I know the motors coming out and being takin apart but i was just wondering if this was a problem that someone has had and if this sounds like it may have been just a bearing. Please any opinion, advice, help anything would be great. THANKS in advance!!!