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1quicktruck

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Posts posted by 1quicktruck

  1. I have DRL leds(designed to run in Chevy drl) in my truck but came across an article that states you can run regular 3157 leds without burn out from the higher volts. I bought mine drl leds for around 30 usd but this article I read says by installing this resistor you can run the 3157 leds without burning them out.

     

    The article suggest using a radio shack resistor15 ohm/ 1/2 watt carbon film resistor. Model 271-1102 ,catalog 271-1102. You get 5 little resistors for less than 2.00 usd. The article says the blue wire is the power wire and you solder it in the power wire of each drl light. I heard either direction on the resistor , no right or wrong way..

     

    Under a load he got11.89 volts vs the 14.4 voltage without the resistor. All this info came from an article I read on another site but figure some of you guys could chime in if this is really real as I plan to upgrade my sons Tahoe using this resistor and installing less expensive leds.

     

    A late added note : This has nothing to do with turn signals as that is a whole different story and this only applies to the DRL issue .

  2. I searched the forums and found nothing on this but here goes. Surfing EBAY I found a intercooler pump from CXRACING and it was priced right. Looks like the one on my supercharger but one of the in or outlet is thread. Anyone tried one of these pumps ?post-19313-0-71335700-1392759724_thumb.jpg

  3. I bought a kit from EBAY but it took my about 2hrs to do one and then the next week another one went south. Do them all and I had mine done and had LEDs installed. Here locally about 130. There are some good stepper motors on EBAY but some are not good. The ones I bought said made in the USA and were white. I think some are made across the sea and they may not be as good.

    I think I paid about 30USD for 5 or 6 stepper motors. The original stepper motors were bad in a lot of the GM products starting around 2002 thru 2006 I think maybe more.

  4. I have them in my truck for about 4 years with no trouble. They are designed for daytime running lights in Chevy,GM trucks. I bought them off of EBAY for about 30usd. If you look at my LED pictures you can see how they look. In EBAY type '2011-1999 Silverado hyper white led daytime running'.

     

    I love mine and have no problems.

  5. I have all exterior led lights in my truck. I cannot find a good cargo light. The bulb is a 912 and I have tried many leds.I even had a cree bulb that was 3pwr but was not impressed. When I tried a 194/921 bulb with a bunch of leds it would not light up bright.

     

    Currently I have the 194 with 5smd 5050.Trust me I have bought many led bulbs for this application but so far I am unable to get a bright light to work. I am not an electrician so I don't know how much power is going to that cargo light other than 12v.. Do any of you know of a bright led for the cargo light. I don't use canbus type bulbs

     

     

  6. There are several utube videos showing you how to repair your cluster. I bought stepper motors off of ebay around 25 to 30 dollars,bought solder and solder iron plus misc parts. Repaired one gauge that had failed. Took me about 2hrs. Next week another one went out.

    After spending close to 100 for all of the necessary items I opt to have AR speedometer here in Tulsa to do mine. Dealer wanted 800 and he did it all for 127. I up graded for the white background,blue leds,blue pointers and chrome bezels around each gauge then it went to 325. I should have opt for the white leds. Blue looks great but around the dusk time the speedo is hard to read until total darkness. The white panel looks black at night.Check it out in my pictures.

  7. My windshield washer reservoir had a small crack so I bought a new one from the local dealer about 55.00 . I tried the solder iron trick but I could never stop it from leaking and it was about an inch crack.

    Anyway installed new washer bottle and all is well, except now my 'check windshield fluid' in my DIC shows up.

     

    Rechecked leads. Plugged it in and out again ,all seems ok. I twisted the sender until the tabs stopped me. Still get the message. It worked fine until I put it in the new washer reservoir. I think a new sender s about 26.00. On the bright side I have no leaks and I can ignore the message. That thing holds over a gallon of fluid, maybe a gallon and a half.

     

    So has anyone had problems with the low fluid sensor after switching to a new reservoir ?

  8. I keep looking at HID kits and I get confused about digital and dc vs ac ballast also alot is being said about bulb design. Even if you bought a kit, just how good is the customer service after the purchase. From what I read ac ballast are the best but are they worth the extra bucks and it appears most hid kits come from China and if you want the others from Germany or Japan you pay 3 or 4 time as much.

     

    I know the old saying 'you get what you pay for' From what I read Daytime driving lights and HID do not mix without some modification to eliminate the daytime lights on all the time. Starting with the lights on makes it hard on the ballast as well as the bulb and shortens the life of you kit

     

    DDm tunning seems to have a good warranty and a fair price but Ebay has some cheap China kits for around 25.00. I wonder how good they are ?.

     

     

  9. you dont need to mess with the OEM flasher for LEDS.... all you need to do is buy some $5 20W resistors and connect them in line between the ground and power wires on each bulb you use. that will fix your issue and no messing with the sensitive factory electronics

     

    heres a link- 25W Resistors

     

    Your are right but I chose the flasher instead of resistors. By the way my cruise works fine. I tested it out this weekend.

  10. Good question. I have not tried it yet , however I have read and you know everything you read on the internet is true that it may learn in time to start working again if it doesnt work now(lol). On a lighter note I have a 4 cyl for a DD(05 malibu) and I dont drive the truck much anymore.

    I have also found that a large number of smd or leds may not fit the socket so beware of buying leds- bulbs with very large numbers of smd , They also have problems with bulbs being out of round or one bulb fits the hole and the hext one you have to modify to get the bulb in. I have bought 4 bulbs from different vendors to get one that fits.

    Leds do not project far enough out for headlights. I tried cree projectors and they still dont shine out past 15 feet but so bright they hurt your eyes to look at them.

  11. OK , I did my own research and here is the following . 2004 1500 Silverado does take the LM487 10 pin (off EBAY ) about 40.00 and the location is on the back side of the fuse panel(driver side) Access is by removing trim around the gauges l(same as pulling cluster removal) Two screws bottom of dash . Remove emergency brake screw. The panel is very tight to get off has a bayonet type clip on either side.

     

    The flasher fits very snug. I removed an electrical clip to(next to the emergency flasher to expose the side of the flasher and I used a scewdriver to help me pry it out by wiggling and pulling. I looked at the pins on the new and old flasher and put the new on just like the old one came out as two pins are off set. It works very good

     

    I am running all leds , interior(no dash leds) and exterior except Hid lows ,halogen fogs without resistors.

  12. I have a 2004 silverado 1500 and I have been reading about the location and flasher for leds on many forms and the more I read the less I know. I dont know if I have a 4 pin or 10 pin flasher. I have found two part numbers 4 pin cp 29i or cp29l and Lm487 10 pin.

     

    Next the location I have heard either behind the fuse panel on the driver side(dash) or the black box under the steering wheel near the gas pedal. If anyone knows for sure please reply as I have spent many hours trying to figure this out.

    Also I am having a problem trying to buy 3157 bulbs that work even if they say for Chevy Silverado, they work with test lead but not on the truck. The turn 180 doesnt work either.

  13. I have upgraded my interior lights ,tag,cargo,daytime running lights. I put 120 smd lights into fog,and headlights. The stop and running lights are a mystery. I cant get the 3157 bulb to work, well it may work on running lights but the stop light wont work. Took leads and it checks ok. Somehow the China bunch cant get the wires correct on a double filment bulb.. I know about the resistors but I am not going into turn signal bulbs for that very reason. I opt for everything but the turning bulbs and I know about the heavy duty flasher and resistors and chose not to go that route.

     

    Second problem, I ordered the smd 120 led bulb for fog and headlights. They are bigger than the hole for the bulb to go thru, You guessed it I wollered it out to fit(bad mistake) I then used silcone to seal it up(works ok). They are not bright enough for head lights or fog but they look bright as heck. The only problem is they shine out about 15 feet.

     

    They pass good for daytime running lights. I am now going to the cree projector lights hoping for more light output. I am running hid 55 watts in my low beam and that is great. The map lights were a pain as the lens comes out ok but I could not pull the bulb out (194) I took out the whole unit and pushed the reflector out. Bulb came out easy but the reflector didnt want to go back in . After many minutes I got it in, it wanted to slide from side to side and teeter back in forth.

     

    I like the look of the led bulb. They are ice white. Its amazing something so bright doesnt light up any distance but blinding white. I am going to the cree high output for map,cargo,fog and headlights. I bought daytime running lights that are for daytime running lights in led. I also found some 3157 18smd leds that are suppose to be 12/24v maybe they will work for daytime lights hopefully. As for long life that remains to be seen..

     

    I should add ,they can see you coming but you cant see where you are going with led headlights.

  14. Actually my 04 had the bad temp gauge and that worked out ok with the x27 . My sons o3 tahoe fuel gauge always was faulty setting at 7 or 8 with key off then move to the 4 or 5 with key on sometime no movement . Zeroed gauge replaced old motor with new x27 it did the same and it makes a little noise . Same setting as old gauge, Never goes to E or F. My son said when he first got the 03 it sometimes did right then it went bunkers.

     

    The MCR motors say USA but I still have a couple of x27. I just bought backups as the ad said better built than others. I kind of over buy somethings. I will replace the motors as they go bad. Just dont know about my sons 03 .

  15. I did a search fiirst but found nothing about who makes the best stepper motor. I bought x27 168 and it was suppose to be the latest and greatest but it makes noise and did what the last one did.(fuel gauge on my 03 ) So maybe even the best sometimes makes a bad one..However I replaced my temp stepper motor and it works ok.

    The ebay guy's says the black stepper motors are junk and the usa mcr are also supposedly bad which I just bought but havent tried. Has anyone got a real good guess on the best ?

  16. Has anyone tried the led lights ? I was thinking about drl , fog lights and backup. I just wonder if they are bright enough for headlights ? I already have low beam hids but I just wonder about these led lights. Good , bad or do not last . I would like to hear about anyones experience with these.

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