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Posts posted by [email protected]
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Ordered the transmission today, went with a Jake's Level 4 4L80E and a billet converter. I am also going to get some 2" primary headers from American Racing since we have to pull the exhaust out anyway. Going to reusing my cutouts, high flow cats, and black chrome tips but redo the rest in 3" not cobbled together pipe and add a muffler instead of a resonator.
So what type of muffler do you guys think would sound good on this? Doesn't need to be too loud since the cutouts take care of that.
I will probably just have my shop mod the crossmember if they can do it cheaper, I didn't even think about how much it would even cost to just mod it.
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Spent quite a few hours today going over different companies offerings, I am now pretty sure I will be going with a Jake's Performance Level 4 with a billet 3000 stall converter from them as well. Does anyone happen to have part numbers for the other stuff needed for the 4L80E swap? Driveshaft and speed sensor mostly, I found a guy on another board selling crossmembers for $140 shipped.
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Managed to get funds pooled for the 4L80E swap together, leaning towards a FLT Level 5 and a Circle D 3000 or so stall.
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Was able to free up the funds to do the 80E swap, just a matter of deciding what company to go with, pretty sure I am leaning towards an FLT Level 5 4L80E and probably a Circle D 3000 stall converter to go with it.
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I kind of figured that is what you guys would say, I already read the experiences with performabuilt a couple of you had. Would I absolutely need the level 5 FLT 4L80E if I went that route or would the level 4 be enough which would enable me to get all the swap parts now.
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Well I had my truck back for two weeks and the transmission decided to crap out already. I don't know much about the transmission and converter currently in it other than it was supposedly built to handle the motor and cost about $2600. The converter supposedly was a TCI with a 3000 stall.
I am leaning towards either a Performabuilt with their converter due to the warranty or a FLT with a Circle D or other good converter.
I only have 300 miles on the motor so I don't have any dyno pulls or anything yet, the estimate is 650-700 hp,
I don't know much at all about transmissions/torque converters past what they do. I am staying with a 4L65E at this time due to the fact that I already spent a ton on the motor and don't have enough extra to do the full swap now, I need to get it running then I will start gathering parts to possibly do the 4L80E down the road.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I already read quite a bit about the two I am looking at and aside from a few people having issues with one or the other both seem to get decent results out of either. Do I have to go with their highest offering or is there anything that is more economical that I can look at?
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Engine runs great so far, only got about 300 miles on it before the trans acted up though. It'll probably get a 4L80E eventually anyway, but I was hoping to at least get a year to gather parts before needing to pony up for the swap.
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Had it just over two weeks and now the transmission blew this morning, it is making a fairly loud humming noise so I am hoping it is just the pump that went but I wouldn't be surprised if it was the whole thing knowing my luck.
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Going to just extend the harness where it is needed to tuck it away, I have a nice soldering iron and quite a bit of patience so I will get it done eventually.
I have a Gopro sitting in my cab, just need to find some time to set it up and get some video.
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Well I have it back finally, had a coil pack code pop up the second day, switched the 6th and 2nd pack just in case but I think the wiring harness just wasn't seated fully, it hasn't come back since. I have put about 150 miles on it so far and other than the same two knock sensor codes coming back like they did before it got rebuilt everything has been good. The codes don't seem to be affecting anything currently so I am going to finish breaking it in and worry about it after that. I also have a picture of the cluster in there, I wasn't sure what I would think of it but I ended up really liking it.
Next task will be to tackle the terrible wiring job that it currently has.
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I was expecting about that. I mostly just need to relocate the main wiring harness along the back firewall and a few small harnesses up front need to go along the frame or something. I have quite a bit of experience with wiring and soldering, so I am pretty sure I can handle it myself, just going to take lots of time. I do our local car shows and a lot of people want to see the 454 once they hear it, so it definitely gets looked at a lot.
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I sold mine for $1500 and the guy that bought it removed it himself.
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I wish I had time to go down and get them, I could use some of the stuff on them.
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Most likely the front diff, very common problem. You will probably end up tossing $500-$1000 on that and other little maintenance if you get it, but I think it's a good deal especially from a dealer.
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I've had mine for months at $1500 shipped and nobody has been interested. I'm patient but I am honestly surprised nobody has wanted it.
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I'm hoping to do a wire tuck on mine once I get it back, how much time do you suspect it took to get yours done? I want to get mine all back on the firewall out of the way and down near the frame in the front so it's not all over the place.
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I have a full kit in black with most if not all of the brackets. Good shape with relatively minimal scratching except for the one piece on the front passenger corner should be replaced. Feel free to make me an offer.
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Feel free to make an offer on mine, now that I am about to pay for the rest of my engine I am looking to move the rest of my parts to help pay for it.
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Finally got some engine specs, I think I translated everything correctly but I attached the PDF as well in case something looks fishy. It is being hauled down to the dyno for break in right now, should hopefully have it back this week yet.
456 CI
Block – GM LSX Bore 4.205 8/8 moly finish with/ tor plate
Pistons – JE custom 2.618 4.200 piston to wall .005 comp rate 9.9 to 1 piston to deck .-004
Piston Rings – Total Seal custom .043 moly – 2nd .043 0 3/16 std ten oil Ring gaps .021 top, .021 2nd - + .015 oil rails
Rods – Manley 4340 H Beam 6.125 C to C, ARP 2000 Bolt Rod Bearing CL .0023 ACL Race Bearing .010
Main Line – ARP Main Stud Installed + line honed, Main CL .0027 ACL Race Bearing .010
Crank – 4.100 stroke Forged Crank 10/10 Thrust CL - .004
Cam – Howard Hydralic Roller, Duration .050, In 230, Ex 232 Valve Lift In .625 Ex .625 Lob Center 113 degrees. Intake C/L Installed at 108.5 degrees, piston to valve In .265, Ex .200, cam thrust .005
Heads – Ported but West Coast Cylinder Head – 73cc Chamber, In - 2.165, Ex 1.600 V-Spring 1.780 In, 170lbs on seat, open 420lbs, custom cometic head gaskets.
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You have an AWD dyno available to you right? Hopefully it turns out well and puts down some numbers
I have to have it towed about 80 miles to the nearest AWD dyno near Seattle, I want it broke in there before I even touch it so it's covered in case something goes wrong.
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Last piece of the puzzle arrived today. Tuner has their dyno back and they are hooking everything back up now. Should be going down this week to be finished up.
There is another SS sitting next to mine at the shop right now, pretty much stock aside from a supercharger on it and the wheels.
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Nah... The black one was totaled by a shot to the rear from a JBHunt tractor trailer... Couldn't find black so I settled for red Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Man that story sounds so familiar, did the same thing last year.
The Storm
in Builds
Posted
ARH knows what it is yea and said it would be no problem, they are $1190. I've tried calling Kooks a bunch of times now and nobody ever answers.