Thatdavidkid

Unless you live near a crazy guy like me that wanted to trade all the awd stuff for 2 wd stuff.

I suppose it does need to be power on the bottom. Not the back like the leather.

My cloth drivers seat is in good shape except the lower seat frame is broken. So what I'm looking for is if someone in the north Texas area has a seat cheap, maybe one that got swapped for leather or where the foam or cloth is in bad shape. Dealer wants $200 for the lower frame and I just don't have it but the seat is sagging bad and killing my back.

Vacuum leak is my guess. Sub par gas Is always a possibility but honestly that happens much less often than people think.

First off, I am into clean factory looking "stuff" so I don't want any chrome lights or anything off the wall like that but I broke a light yesterday (long long story but it fell out and smacked te ground while I was driving home and I won't go into the rest of it.) so I'm wondering if the 04 lights are the best ones? Or if there's something out there I can get that look even better. I don't think I'd like any trim around my light or I'd just come up with something to cover the damaged part cause it only got the top edge. Any ideas?

I have a tool box that sits flush with the bed rails at the front of the bed. In your searching, have you or anyone else found a tonneau cover that would work with a tool box? I want one but I don't want to make it too hard to get into the tool box, this is the first vehicle I've kept uncluttered inside and the tool box is where I put random stuff and I'd like to keep it that way

Spindles FTW. Ill never lowr a truck a different way I the front again unless I did those 2-3" drop arms from bell tech. My truck isn't an ss so I lowered it 4" to make it level in the back, thinking avout going up one notch on the hanger. With short bump stops and rear drop shocks mine would ride great.

Ok. I'm no expert, I just assumed regular clicks as long as you hold which would indicate that your power test at the motor was false but in this case, I'm sure you're right. Now I wonder, is there a relay your switch controls? Or does it go straight to the motor? Keep us posted if you fix it.

Clicking like a single click each time you hit the button? Or a repetitive clicking when you hold the button? Is the clicking coming from the seat? I was under the impression the seat just has power and the switches put the power where it needs to go.

105 or 135?

And while you're there take a close look at the wiring pigtail, I've seen a lot of them burn up. Mine started acting funny the other day, I'll be buying both soon to be prepared.

3/5 you'll need a c notch. I have cut my bump stops down as much as I can, and am going to order the shortest bump stops I have found, and it will be OK unless I hit a big bump. I like the 2/4 and 0 rubbing issues.

Do what? I'm sorry and correct me if I'm wrong or misreading but wet shot IN the fuel lines makes no sense. Are you telling him to run direct port in the intake runners? That would make a little more sense.

This is my non SS with mcgaughys 2/4. I know ppl don't like them cause the turning radius is bigger but I manage ok. I run 275/55 20 though It's actually about 1/4-1/3" lower because that was the first day and it turns out I was literally riding on bump stops.

What screws with pcs is the Internet. I bought an asus (not a computer guy but it was a mid range $700 computer) and I use it for tuning, my rc flight sim ( so the graphics are pretty good cause I know simulators are hard on a computer and I have all the stuff turned up in the sim) and as a reference for rc building so I do watch some YouTube and go to rc sites but I reserve all of the unfamiliar sites for my iPhone and I have had 0 issues with my computer. For what it's worth, I also have an OLD Mac book and the only reason I stopped using it is because the os is so out dated I couldn't even sync my Iphone and I am not spending $100+ on a ten+ year old laptop. My wife's is about 7 years old and the only issue we've had is the battery puffed which made the track pad button stick. New battery fixed It.

Ok I guess I can believe that, but I know at least the rear is actually lower in stock form, what causes that? My truck is a regular ls 2wd and has the same suspension setup and the truck I got my parts from was a 2wd SS.

Yes it is as low as it will go with these parts. I'm happy with the drop, I'm just curious about the parts. Can you pm me a price for that notch kit? Do you weld them when you install them? Or just bolt in? I've spent a lot of time reading on the subject last night and if I notch it, that's what I'm doing.

Ok, on the c notch, disregard the how to do it question but safety while towing/ strength vs. uncut frame is still something I wonder about.

First off, what are the ACTUAL differences in suspension from my torsion bar 2 wd to an SS? Is it the actual leaf springs in the back? Or are the shackles different? I've got drop hangers and 2" drop shackles on mine and seems higher than the SS I got my stuff off of. My next question is about trucks with a 4" rear drop.... I removed my add on bracket on the bump stops and cut them down to the last rib. I feel like its still too close to the axle. What should the gap from bump stop to axle be? And Is there an extremely short bump stop I can buy? Next is a question about a c notch... How are they normally installed? Is it safe without having the frame boxed? If I did a c notch I could run a factory type or poly bump stop with some height to it and it wouldn't be unbearable if I decide to tow something or load up the bed.

Worst case: take it with you and sell it there. But overall, selling a nice SS to afford living in LA sounds like short term solution

Fwiw I haven't had great luck running 6 rib belts on 8 rib grooved pulleys.... Glad you got it figured out, I was gonna post the same till I saw you got it

Is the axle sticking in the hub? Or is the hub stuck in the spindle?try removing the axle completely and then hitting the hub from the back side. Maybe get some bolts longer than the stock ones, thread them in and hit those.

Sweet now I have exterior dimensions. Thanks.

I'll do that, and then check stroke to double check before I install but at least this way I have a solid idea when I get the engine.

Nice, that's more like what I was looking for... It's an 01-04 ish truck motor, so it won't be a flat top 5.3 I don't think assuming the flat top 5.3's are just about all aluminum.