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jmontero146

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Posts posted by jmontero146

  1. At first I thought it was my rear differential that was bad.. had it checked out and put the right fluid in and the rear wheels still  continued to shudder on turns..took it to a chevy dealer and they told me my transfer case viscous coupler is bad. A new or remanufactured transfer case goes about for the same price as new viscous coupler..so my question here is what do u guys recommend a new or remanufactured transfer case or just replace the damaged viscous coupler with a new one?  If I go with the remanufactured case or new where should I order it from?? Or should I just get a used transfer case?  My gut tells me no for a used one..

  2. 58 minutes ago, someotherguy said:

    What exact fluid went in?  Was it marked for posi-trac units?  Was posi additive used?  If so...that's the wrong stuff, and can cause incorrect lockup of the factory locker.  Eaton Gov-Loc (RPO code G80) uses just plain gear oil, no posi additive.

    EDIT - lol my bad, I thought your post sounded familiar.  You had just posted about similar issues previously.

    Richard

    I drained it just incase and put the correct fluid in it just to make sure.. still does the same thing..

  3. On 7/23/2019 at 10:31 AM, someotherguy said:

    Someone may have changed the gear oil as regular maintenance.  If so, and they put "posi" additive in it, that could be the cause.  The Gov-Loc specifically does not require "posi" additive as it is not a posi unit.  This is a highly-debated topic in some areas so if needed I can look up the TSB from GM that explains it; there's literally no argument.  GM specifically states that use of those additives in the Gov-Loc can cause improper operation of the locker.

    It takes regular gear oil, and in your SS's case that would be 75W-90 synthetic.  I'd start there - replace whatever is in it with the proper lube so you know that is correct; this will also give you a chance to look inside and get an overall feel of the condition of the differential.  Check the amount of crud attached to the magnet, sitting in the case, and feel the edges of your gears, etc.

    Richard

    Well I took it in last Monday he changed the clutches on the rear differential we put 75w 90 fluid and the clunk went away but now the rear wheels seem to bind or lock a little bit when making slow speed turns. He said the transfer case might be the problem.

  4. I would start and see if your truck has option code for auto climate control. Im not sure the option code and I'm not sure if I still have a book to look it up. You will need to check your glove box label. If it doesn't even have it your chasing your tail. I would start there first. Second you need to either pay someone or get your hands on a good scan tool. Rather than keep throwing parts at it and hope you get it right. A good scan tool can check door position and manually move them. Then you can determine exactly which door if any have a problem.

    thanks thats some good info but wouldn't the plugs be different so if i get a manual it would plug in no problem?
  5. Did the system ever work correctly? There are 4 motors under the dash. 1 for fresh air/recirculate, 1 for mode selection, and one for each side for temp control. You could try a new control, or look up the re-learn procedure for the climate control online. Doesn't require tools. Sometime the blend doors "forget" what position they're in. They're telling the control head they're all the way open, when in reality, they're only half open.

    i bought the truck from a previous owner so i dont know, the climate control has always been like that since i bought the truck.changed my climate control module and nothing.could it be my thermostat? OR THE BLEND DOORS? BUT Which ONE?
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