demonte1997

I live in southern CT. I put the Timkens on and there hasn't been any change in sound. One of the original hubs was absolutely gone. You couldn't turn it at all. The darn thing was red from all the heat over the years. ^ I threw the Timkens in and it didn't resolve anything. Was hoping for the best. Will report back when I'm able to do more sleuthing. Thanks again for the responses!

I wouldn't say the sound gets louder. It's the worst at around 20mph if the rpms are low but I'm putting load on the system. As the speed climbs and the rpms are higher, the sound seems to level out and I don't feel the vibration through the floorboard. One thing I will add is that I can hear a little bit of a whining/roaring sound when I let off the gas between 40-50mph. That sounds like the front diff. I got a used low mileage front diff from a reliable source. Thinking about a transfer case too as I'm sure the chain is stretched out just from mileage and possibly other worn internals. Thanks for the replies. Always appreciated.

That looks pretty damn sinister. There is a guy rolling around here in CT that has a black SSS with red halogen bulbs in as running lights. Doesn't look half as good as coal miners LEDs. I want to see a pic of them in the daylight.

I like the odometer display in blue. How custom is that? Is that something gmgaugerepair can do? I'd love to have that so I could match up the rest of my lights in the interior.

Nice truck!

Auto-Trac II for the T-case. Dex VI for the trans. Synthetic 75w/90 for the diffs. Amsoil is quality. If you have a local Amsoil dealer, speak with them about what they recommend for those components. You could do a VIN check for your truck to see what fluid originally came in the T-case. For me, it was Auto-Trac II. I didn't feel comfortable using Dex III for it so I went with the original fluid. No one could really give me definative evidence saying if changing from one or the other is bad. Although, a few techs at the dealer didn't seem comfortable with that scenario.

Sorry about your loss. Sincerest condolences to you and your family. And the other circumstances revolving the break-in. That's horrible. People like that can rot in hell.

It's interesting. At lower speeds (under 40mph), the rear wheels turn opposite the direction of the fronts (similar to a monster truck). There is a certain degree of turning the front wheel when the Quadrasteer really starts to kick in... at which point the rear end likes to swing around. Makes for easy maneuvering on tight u-turns and parking spaces. At higher speeds (above 40mph) the wheels turn in the same direction. Thus, it won't flip over if making an evasive maneuver on the highway. I won't keep it in 4WS mode when the roads are slippery. That seems like asking for a nightmare. In fact, a buddy of mine with an 03' tried it last winter and almost totaled his truck (4WS kicked in, truck went sideways, hopped a curb and just barely missed broadsiding a tree). Wait... -6F???? Ugh... I hope we don't see those temps in CT this winter. :/

I like the way the front is more or less mono-tone with the bumper and such. It's one of the things that made me get one.

Yeah, what am I saying?? It's probably been 0* up there for a month now, huh? I don't know how you guys live up that way. Three years in VT was enough for me and it probably is still a lot warmer than most of Canada.

Thanks guys! Yep, it has the Quadrasteer. Turning radius is sick. I was told I could drop the rear if I remove the spacer blocks. Haven't done it yet because it might screw with the suspension travel.

Still needs rims, lower and a few other things, but getting there...

If anyone has one they're looking to get rid of, let me know. Thanks, -Rick

Pics please!!! I've been tinkering with the idea of doing the cluster on my Denali.

I'm surprised no one makes a better, cleaner euro look headlamp for these trucks. Something with the non-forward chrome pieces blacked to give it a sharper look. That's what I got for the SD and it looks way better than stock. The aftermarket headlights always end up looking tacky with the additional LED strips and goofy reflectors. Haven't been able to figure out why these guys don't make something closer to stock looking (perhaps fear of lawsuit from OEM??). I couldn't tell at first glance.. does no one make a HL with projectors included for this platform? They help a ton if you're going to throw in HIDs. Maybe there isn't enough room. I'd do a projector retrofit from retrofit source. Bet the Morimoto minis would fit with the smaller shrouds and some fabrication.

Rear end is something I didn't think of... interesting. I'll check that out along with the torsion bars over the weekend. Thanks again

Do you like the cargo lamp bulbs? Looking to get a set of those CREE T15 bulbs but want to make sure they have a strong enough beam and that it is a wide angle. All looks great though. LED lighting really perks things up.

Hubs are done. The truck feels tighter after that but the clunking sound/vibration is still there. Feels like it is coming up through the floorboard... On the bright side, the passenger side hub was shot. Couldn't even turn it by hand. It was practically welded onto the knuckle. The driver side wasn't terrible but not great either.

There is no way your truck is not totaled. Seriously. Insurance can suck a fat one. lol

Not to thread hijack but are the bulbs in the door panels the same as the cluster? I have a few out on my truck. Hoping the Radio Shack "grain of wheat" bulbs may work and I won't have to do any crazy soldering.

My condolences sir. I can't believe that security didn't see this happen and wasn't able to do anything about it. As said, seems like an inside job... even if security just told them when to come by as the best times so no one would be around. Stuff like this pisses me off so much. Words can't express the disgust I have for people like this. They should be drawn and quartered. Hope you get all your $$ back from insurance. They can be real pissants about giving you $$ for mods if you don't declare them and get additional insurance for them. GL keep us posted.

No video yet. Sorry about that. My girlfriend just got a new vid recorder ( ) so I'll give that a shot to see if it can pick up the noise.

The tires are brand new Michelins. I also ran with another set of wheels/tires to rule it out and no change. There is a little vibration through the steering wheel and pedal while I hear the noise. New hubs going on Friday night so I keep my fingers crossed that resolves it. One other thing to note: The sound goes away completely when there is load on the system going up an incline (for example: 2,000 rpms to accelerate up a steep hill). I hear absolutely no noise and feel no vibration in this sort of condition. It's uncanny. I wonder if it has to do with weight transfer.. Thanks again for your time. I appreciate it.

I changed the oil on the diff about 500 miles ago. It was making the noise prior to that. The oil looked fine. Had some metal shavings on the plug but seemed normal otherwise. When you say having the diff serviced, does that mean going to GM and having their techs look at it? Do they actually take the thing apart and replace parts that are broken or worn? I'm very trepidatious about having a tech at GM rack up a large tab if it won't fix a potential problem. I've had amazing techs at dealers and terrible techs. The sound starts at 10mph and continues all the way to about 50. It is much worse at lower speeds and when the rpms are low (with load on the system). I've noticed the sound has begun to extend to 60 in the past few weeks. If I go over 70, I get a humming sound that comes and goes. That sound seems different and is very similar to a wheel bearing. I'm happy to look for a parts truck and start getting some cores to have rebuilt. Just hoping to narrow down the issue/s before I spend more time and $. Thanks again for the input.

^^ Geez. That thing sounds pretty damn rough... almost like a tank on tracks. Mine has more of that deep choo choo train sound and only when you're on the gas, lower rpms, under enough load to make the noise and when rpms go up noise goes away a bit. That's not to say my transfer case isn't bad and it just sounds different from inside the truck while it is on the ground. Front diff is a scary thought. That would probably be a harder fix. :/ Keeping this bumped in the hopes someone up my way has been down this path or may have a bit of knowledge about it. edit: I'll try to get an actual vid of the noise but it might be hard to pick up over camera.