demonte1997

Replacement sensor showed up today. Of course they packed it loose in the box so it was rattling against the metal cap it comes with. This was after I requested them to not pack it loose because I felt that was the reason the first sensor arrived in bad shape. Just to confirm, other GM wholesale places (like Nalley Brunswick) do NOT send the sensor this way. All told, stay away from this place. Their attention to the replacement was terrible.

I notified BBB and wouldn't you know, I received a notification from the vendor that a replacement sensor would be going out in the mail. Not to sound over-cautious but I wonder if I should try to run this sensor right when I get it to ensure that they didn't send me back the original or some other piece of junk. I'm sure there is a way to authenticate a GM sensor when it is sent out. Otherwise, this would just be a backup sensor in case the one I put in ever goes south.

I guess this topic will serve two purposes: 1) To see what you guys think of what is going on here 2) To provide awareness of this vendor as their return process is flawed I bought a rear wheel position sensor from them for my 2002 SD. The sensor was shipped loosely in a box. When I picked it up at the post office, you could hear the sensor rattling around in the box as it banged up against the protective metal cap that comes with it. Nonetheless, I gave it to the dealer to put in my truck. Dealer installed the sensor and found that the voltage was way off. So I was out $$ on labor and the sensor was not good right out of the box. The dealer confirmed that the other components in the system are working as designed to the issue was pinpointed to the sensor. So I get all the necessary diagnostic paperwork from the dealer and arrange for a return with this company. As an aside, this was back in early March. Over three months have gone by and I keep getting the runaround. First, they asked when I sent it. Then for the tracking number. Then it was an issue with the warehouse manager trying to find it. Now I'm being told that GM won't get back to them regarding the sensor so they can't do anything. This place is so effing shady. It's just a knockoff gmpartsdirect wholesaler for GM parts. There are plenty of them these days. (I prefer Naly now as they have proven to have decent prices, shipping and service). All I want is either a refund or a replacement sensor - this doesn't have to be hard. So, what would you guys do in my situation? I want to be forceful with this company but I don't want to piss them off so much that they just disappear. Is there someone I can contact that has authority over them? Otherwise, I will tarnish their name as much as I can all over the media. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide. At worst, this post should at least provide some information to help people who might use this vendor. Goes without saying: buyer beware.

This is a great thread. Huge thanks to CHASE for the NVG information. It's a perfect description of how the system works. My experience with this transfer case in my 2002 SD below if it is helpful to anyone: My transfer case is completely shot. The viscous coupling on it is done. When I take tight turns with my truck, it will lurch a little and it almost feels like the rear wheels are dragging because they are fighting with the fronts (the viscous coupling is not allowing for slippage between the front and rear so they are all trying to rotate at the same speed). This may or may not be the same issue GSILVERADOSS is experiencing. In addition to issues with tight turns, my truck makes a rhythmic clunking sound when I'm on the throttle that has been pinpointed likely to the chain smacking the inside of the case OR the viscous coupling just rattling around in there. That said, it's actually quite amazing how stout this units are. The damn thing has held up like that for the 6,000 miles I've owned it and it has about 176,000 on it now.

You sell these? Are these the same for an 02' SD? If so, I'll buy them now.

These needles lit up okay before? Reason I ask is that I had blue needles on an Escalade cluster and they were horrible. Even with huge LEDs I got almost no light out of them. Just wanted to confirm that these needles would not have that issue.

That's odd. My gauges are different in that they allow for the Twistlock bases to support LED change outs. But still, I would think that properly working LED bulbs should illuminate a 2003+ cluster bright enough that the needles would pop, a lot. Curious what you find out. Best of luck. Please let us know the outcome.

Damnit guys. You're getting in my head. Now I want to just go with +20 offset for these. A buddy of mine has 22x9.5 Foose Heat wheels with a +14 offset and they look great. Seeing that, I'd rather go with the +20 offset. Thanks again for the advice.

Thanks John. It's not a SSS but it does the job.

That's what I was thinking but then I saw this thread: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/73819-34-djm-drop-w-wheel-and-tires/?gopid=820917&do=findComment&comment=820917 And another guy on on this forum saying 24x9 with the same offset with no issues. I could get the same wheels in +20 offset instead. The better question might be which wheels would fit or look better.

04+ all the way.

I'm looking to run 305/40/22 tires on these wheels. The shop I'm buying them from thinks I would need spacers. If I'm not mistaken, I've seen a few members who run a similar setup on their SSS with no issues. This would be for my 2002 SD, but it should be very similar to SSS. Would this fit? Or would I be better with a +20 wheel?

I've changed the appearance of a few different types of GM HLs to give them the "Euro" look-mostly 97-2004 w-bodies. A few customers had asked if I could use some Niteshade on the amber reflector to give it a darker appearance. I put on two very light coats of Niteshade followed by a couple decent coats of clear for gloss. It's not my cup of tea in terms of style, but the light would still shine through rather stock looking. If you go this route make sure to not put too much Niteshade down as a little goes a long way. As said previously, you could also look into clear diffusers as well. I'm not sure if I would bother with straight black but, in the end, it's your truck. Post up whatever you end up doing.

Really nice wheels. GLWS

How many miles have you put on since replacing the battery? Do the rpms really seem to jump or is it just a lazy shift? I could be wrong but when replacing the battery, the PCM has to relearn the driving parameters of the vehicle. So the shifts will start out slow and firm up after a few trips around town. This has been the case with all of my GM vehicles including a few w-bodies and my 2002 SD. Otherwise you could be looking at other issues for slippage within the transmission. HTH

Do not flush. Just drain and refill. I'm not sure where the trans filter is but look into replacing that too. Drain and refill the system 3 times over a month or two. Probably way late to this thread. HTH

Was the trans giving you symptoms of going south prior to the flush? If it was leaking from the cooler lines prior, that's one thing. But having it flushed couldn't have done anything good for the system. It seems like every other time I hear someone doing this on a trans system, something terrible happens. The flush seems like a good idea, in theory. But it just stirs up any silt and debris in the system. That debris ends up clogging passages and solenoids, which ultimately ruins the trans because it is so sensitive to pressures. I probably missed something but if I am close to hitting the situation with my blurb above, you probably should be asking the shop to compensate you at least partially for the rebuild.

Front bumper, and Chevrolet rear are horrible. Put those back to stock and it wouldn't look so ridiculous. I don't mind the HLs as long as they are functional. They look like projectors and if they put out the proper amount of light that is fine. If they are just ebay halo junk then, yes, they need to go too.

In the short term, could I just replace the PCV valve? On my 3800 they are really easy to do. Thanks again.

Plugs/wires done about 3,000 miles ago. I'll take a look at them again. Also cleaned the throttle body about the same time. It seems like these 6.0L throttle bodies gum up a lot. Thanks for the info bud.

As said, scan. Since it isn't knocking, it sounds like a really bad misfire or possibly vacuum leak. From the sig, looks like you have an Eaton on that motor. If still SC'd, I'd go with a copper plug to help shuck off heat. Don't know what the 6.0L motor prefers. On my L67 setup, they always favored copper Autolites. Good luck.

Usually happens on a cold start. Sound comes from under the front or middle of the truck. Maybe a second after starting. Been happening since the temps dropped here (~10-15*) during the day and colder at night here. 2002 SD with 170K on it. Thinking possibly cat? Some others said trans clutch. Not sure why trans clutch would make any noise if I'm not shifting anything..

DDM used to be really good.. That said, there are other companies out there now who have better products and better warranty policy's for support.

Rhino liner for my truck's bed. Looks great and is very durable.

Looks sick! Really nice finish on that truck.