FwyFlyr

I used to live in Norwalk. Never got ripped off but, since I grew up there all the bangers knew me and left me alone. Where I live now, I leave the house unlocked all the time. No issues in 10 years. I say, walk softly but carry a big stick!

They literally stay on for 2 minutes. Then turn off.....I can turn them back on so it can't be a fuse? They always used to get hot to a point I would turn them off. Took more than 5 minutes though. I searched for this problem and found a lot of questions, but no answers. So, I'm trying to follow the manual. I guess it is a dealer only diagnose.

Ok, so, my seat heaters stay on for 2 minutes. They get warm, but not cozy. same condition on pass. seat. I'm looking in the book and it says to use a scan tool to get codes. Is this the $40.00 scan tool from PepBoys or is it something only the Dealer has ? Since I just got it back from the tranny shop, ( noticed it on the way home ) could a loose or otherwise bad ground cause this problem ? Schematic shows a relay block - I/P. Where is it? Would start by checking for weak circuit Breaker. Electronics are not my strong suit, so any help would be appreciated.

I have the Cinemate...Not impressed, you need a really good Surround Sound Tuner..not just drive it off the TV.

I'm in Northern Illinois. Would like to get $1500. but I will not be doing it until spring/summer.

Ouch...

Try getting a hard core blow drier...like a hair dryer on steroids...heat up the gooseneck where the stat is....maybe you can get it opened up... heck blow it on the radiator too.

No way.

LOL....Both Black too....proves black is the best Oh and uh, well, 'er, umm....whadda ya mean we

Is the coolant still liquid ? geez at that temp...do you have a block heater?

'03 w / 110,xxx

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind. SLP motor comes with car intake, rails and injectors. I'm going to ask them to either give me the truck intake or maybe keep their car intake,rails and injectors in exchange for a discount. I'll see what they say. And I saw your thread with the dyno test...wow will be a monster when you're done.

Yeah....110k / 90% freeway miles.

It's OK, we here on SSS.com don't discriminate!

Ok, I have looked at them and will talk with them before I pull the trigger...What did they do for you warranty wise ? Yeah, more personal attention is def worth alot. Thanks!

Currently getting ready to go with a 402. Considering selling take out motor. 110k, runs perfect. Looking for an Idea what I could sell it for....? Complete motor less drive accessories, oil pan...

Shows how confused I am about some of this.....The motor comes with L76 intake. I understood it was a car intake not truck....?

I think the 26's look OK, but don't care for that wheel....The one's on the AV that Dylan posted look better IMO.

I didn't have much luck looking for the L92 truck intake...will it take a 90mm TB ? I guess I could ask SLP to give me the truck instead of the car intake..... I really know nothing about cams, but this motor has their 51016 cam that is supposed to kinda RVish...link to dyno..power is mid range peak torque at 4400rpm ( 568 I think ). http://www.slponline.com/coming_soon_l92.asp

It is an Iron block....LQ9 block to start with.

Why Slp for a few hundies more? A few reasons, mainly the warranty. I've had good luck with other stuff from them in the past. You can buy their stuff from GM dealers. I guess a little piece of mind and less hassles for me. And yes, I know I could buy all the pieces to build a motor up for even less $$ and make more power....but it is a DD.

What do you guys think of this motor? http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?...mp;BIG=12525M-1 As much as my head is hurting from all I've read lately, what else do I need besides; 90mm TB from TBSS/ GTO/etc. DrX Tune of Course. Some creative plumbing for water pump. 3000 stall TC Anything else ? Is the cam too big for towing/DD ? Too much stall for towing ? Thoughts or suggestions ?

Well I can remember reading the horror stories when people started to change intakes and TB's. This is a DD so I can't really get involved in to many issues with respect to making it all work together. I'm looking more for torque than horsepower because I tow. I realize the 402 / 408 will need to breathe more so I guess the issue really is how much of the accessories / electronics will be an issue if I just break down and go with a FAST Intake, 90mm TB and go from there. Since this seems to be the wave of the future, I wonder if anyone has done it yet?