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I am in the same boat, and decided to do Bell's 2" spindles and 3" leafs. I didn't want to remove/cut the factory hangers/shackles, in case I don't like it dropped I want to be able to go back to stock easily. Although I got the spindles a month ago, I am still waiting for the leafs which Jegs said will ship out next week. Getting tired of waiting so long, I did a search and called around for other options. Another rear drop leaf option that was suggested to me by Sport Truck Direct in AZ is made by Western Chassis. These leafs are about the same price as the Bells and they have them IN STOCK, but shipping is about $69. Since mine will ship out next week with free shipping, and I won't really have time to mess with it before then anyways, I just decided to wait. The Westerns can be seen at http://www.sporttruckdirect.com/smooth_riders.html - the guy I spoke to was Corey (I think). BTW, doesn't using the stock rear springs with different shackles/hangers also reduce the load carrying capacity, because it's so much closer to the frame? J

I saw a Tahoe the other day with a ragular Silverado front clip, which reminded me of this red/black truck/Cad, execpt it was all one color.

I would have to look to see the belt size, but the 2.9 is do-able on CA gas. However, the mixture of my original mail order tune needed to be richened up in the upper RPMs to prevent k/r.

I thought the name "Vettepro" and the truck description sounded like Andy's "shop" truck at A&A in Ventura, CA. Andy is a super nice guy that is well known in the Vette community, who tossed me the keys to this truck on one of his dyno days a year ago to go see how an SS drove w/a Radix.

"trying to resist modding!" Bwahahahaha! Good luck with that, especially reading this forum Congrats on the new truck though!

Wow, I'm glad I bought Belltech spindles! I originally went with Bell's because the castings looked a lot cleaner and more finished, FWIW...

The red one (yours) looks awesome, f'in tight gaps in the wheel wells Their website says you have a 2/3 drop though, but you say it's 3/4 drop...? I thought 3/4 wasn't a good idea on AWD... The blue one needs to come down in the rear and I don't care for the wheels, but the Louis Vuitton headliner is amusing.

There is a shop in Orange, CA called "Classic Components" that specializes in chroming plastic, I found them when looking to have some plastic pinball machine parts refinished. Their website is http://www.classiccomponents.com/ It is actually a process called vacuum metalizing, similar to the old Revel car models' chrome and 60's GM car dash bezels, but I don't know how it would work on the brake ducts. The process is expensive, and they had about a 2 month backlog when I was there.

I have a friend considering selling his regular '04 5.3 Silverado because the work commute mileage and gas cost is killing him.

The blower would definetly be a lot of fun, but with the price of gas plus your commute I think the beater car would be a more sensible idea. Sorry to be another party pooper

I got a set of Hotchkis bars from Tom when he had one of those make your own sale events. It took a little while to get them because they were shipped from Hotchkis in CA to Tom on the east coast, then back to me in CA . Made a big difference in handling for sure. Seemed like a lot of money for bars, but they are really nice. I considered the other brands out there, but went with these because everyone seems happy with them... J

I have the same problem when cold, but mine also bogs a little when it shifts. I went to my tuner a few times to fix it, who tried to correct it by adding some timing when cold to defeat the 6 litre "piston saver" timing retard when cold, but it still does it (maybe not quite as bad). I thought maybe it needed to be richened up when cold, but he didn't think so. It only happens for the first few minutes but it is annoying, so I just try and let the truck warm up a few minutes before driving. If someone figures it out, please post what worked to correct it. James

Yeah, but those stations in Baker are always super expensive. They screw people on their way to Vegas that are almost out of gas from not planning ahead driving from LA. Not that I'm defending them, just an observation...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> The Michelin is avaialble from Tirerack or Costco for about $200 each. I also still have the stock LS's w/25k miles and a lot of tread left, but will likely get the Michelins when they wear out (unless I go to a larger wheel, then I would get Pirellis). J

I'm always suprised of how broad a range there is in the mileage people get out of our stock GY tires. Sure I know different poeple have different driving habits etc, but 25k-55k is a big difference. I don't think the LS in our stock size is being made anymore according to TireRack, instead they have the LS-2 which has gotten really bad reviews so far. The Michellin LTX has gotten great reviews though, and is available in our size but costs $200 each. J

Oddly enough, the Earl's store in Hawthorne, CA does not carry them. Most people here get them from Thunder Racing, I got mine from Jeg's. Took a while to get, but nice lines.

Wow, that is low. I personally like the ride height in your sig better. At least we got to see good close-ups of your pretty wheels! J

Wow, this is a Radix problem I don't think I've ever read about here. My first thought was to jokingly say "Operator error", but at highway speed it's pretty much a no brainer to just floor it. I was told by a knowledgable source that if I swapped my 2.9 pulley for a 3.1, I would have more top end power because I could run more timing instead of boost. Maybe you should try this instead of going smaller. Also, I think the pulley size debate on this group has concluded that anything smaller than a 2.9 spins the blower too fast, and pushes it past the point of diminishing returns. J