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I've noticed the people with Centerlines, like Autoguy, seem to run 285 width tires instead of the usual 305's that people normally like. Are the 305's too wide for the 9.5" CL width, and the sidewall would look strange? Centerlines seem like a good value for a 22" forged wheel at $450-475 each, if they have a style and size that you like...

I don't believe Belltech offers a kit with front spindles and rear leafs. Not sure why not, but they are easy enough to order seperately.

Chase, you're no longer running 22's?

That doesn't sound right for that setup. It's possible that a lot of K-R due to overly aggresive timing of a mail order tune could cause the numbers to be low, which is what happened to me the first time around w/a PCM4Less tune. Plus if it's hot in FL, or gas is crappy (like here in CA) this could also factor in. When I noticed power dropping in the first few days after installing the Radix with my mail order tune, I went for an in person logging and tune. We found lots of KR in the upper RPMs that required richening up to eliminate, and made a big difference in power

I spoke with my tuner friend today about the radix cold hesitation, and apparantly there are no parameters in HP Tuners to adjust the cold enrichment. I don't know much about the HPT program to know for sure, but he spoke with HP Tuners and Magnusson who both said these adjustments are set by GM at the factory level which is why many people with a Radix complain about it. The cold bog is made worse by the s/c, but because it goes away within a couple minutes there are no plans by HPT to invest the time to reverse engineer the software to create an adjustment. If any tuner guys out there know anything to the contrary, please chime in. Zippy? PCM4less? TByrne? A&A?

I would be very dead almost 20 years ago if not for seat belts, so I always wear mine.

No marbles here. Hey wait, that didn't come out right

Belltech #2508 spindles, and #5952 leafs. Available from Jegs, Summit, etc, but the leafs seem to take a long time to get. http://www.belltechcorp.com/agps-final/btag012705.htm

I have the same problem; From what I understand the cold enrichment needs to be increased via HP tuners or one of the other similar tuning software. The truck basically acts like a Chevelle from when I was a kid that didn't have a choke and ran like crap when cold. I'm already scheduled to go to my tuner on Tues to try and hammer it out, I'll give an update then.

I believe it is 1/4" NPT coming out the intake, which needs to be reduced to an 1/8" compression fitting to accept that nylon line going to the gauge. I installed about a 3-4" riser off the intake to make it easier to reach and assemble. A little hard to reach since it's back by the firewall, but not too bad. I'll try and take a couple pics later

I have the Belltech 2" spindles in front and 3" leafs in the rear of my AWD SS, and have no problems or vibration at any speed (with no degree shims). The leaf packs come with 3 small spacers, which are 6" sections of leaf spring material, as part of the springs. These can be removed or added between the spring and the axle in 1/2" increments to get the truck level without touching the torison bar settings up front. With no spacers, the rear tire will be almost even with the top of the wheel well opening lip, and with all 3 spacers you can get 3 fingers between the tire and lip. I currently have 2 spacers in each side, and the truck is pretty much level. These trucks are strange to get sitting flat though; If I look at the bottom body line front to back compared to the street/curb, they are parallel (sitting flat), but if I look at the wheel well gaps, the rear looks slightly tighter (lower). I think maybe the wheel openings are not equal front to rear, which throws the eye and tape measure off. Ride in the back is a little firmer, which is causing the front to be a little bouncy, and I think load carrying is only reduced about 20%. Plus it's reversable if you don't like it, easier than battling with those hangers, and adjustable as I explained above.

There is a plug in the rear of the Radix intake manifold, which is just for this purpose. All the necessary fittings are available from the local hardware store plumbing dept. The hose coming off the J tube will only pick up vacuum, so don't try and take the easy way and go cutting that for the t fitting I connected my FP gauge to iginition hot, since I don't care what the FP is when the engine is off and don't want the gauge powered up all the time from constant hot. Took a while to find ign 12+ though.

The freeway pogo-truck syndrome is caused by a combination of the long wheelbase going over the freeway expansion joints and the stiff rear leaf springs. The 405 north of the 101 is also really bad. The stock springs are meant to carry weight, so when the truck is empty it bounces, and when there is weight in the back it smooths out. When I changed my springs out, I noticed a decrease in freeway pogo truck but, a firmer ride on the street. Belltech makes (lowering) leafs as we all know, but there is also a company called Western Chassis that makes a rear leaf spring which is supposed to ride really nice. Either one will have a slightly (25%?) less weight capacity, but I don't use it for hauling more than 500-600 lbs max so that doesn't mater to me. I would like to change my shocks also though, as I have too much bounce in the front now. Does it ever end?

...and picked up a magazine to see pics of the new '07 Silverado and Sierra. I wasn't too impressed with those other than an avaialble 6.2L 385hp engine, but I did read an little article about the next gen F-150 Harley truck. The highlights were: AWD, around 310hp, forged 22" wheels, and lowered a little bit. No mention of a s/c in the article, but the AWD part suprised me - which used to pretty much be the SSS only launch advantage. I also read about a Radix kit coming out soon for the TBSS, which s/b interesting... Yup, meant to say '07 Silverados. Sorry 'bout that '06 owners

Is that accurate?

Hmmm, I'll have to go out at lunch-time and check on that I'm thinking it's right around 6k at WOT, but I'm usually looking way down the road when that happens and not at the tach...

Something that has not been mentioned here, is that the Dynatech system includes 2 high flow cats, all piping needed to connect with the stock pipes, and all the bungs for 02 sensors are already in place. Not to mention it's all reversable because there's no cutting or welding required, and they're made of stainless and don't *need* to be coated IMHO (not sure what the PS is made of). Mine have been on for 8 months, and asides from turning a little blue coming off the heads they look fine - and no higher under hood temps before or after installation (with no coating) that I can tell when I open the hood. Also, the price on Dynas has come down $150 on Tbyrne to $1350. If you want to compare apples to apples though, price ONLY the Dyna headers themselves and not the compelte system.

I had that size on an Escalade w/Momo Storms, and it rubbed even at stock height.

Probably depends what brand header you are using. Dynatech = no column removal.

A friend and I installed my Dyna's in a few hours with the aid of a vehicle lift and air tools. Although we are both familiar with wrenchin' on cars, we had never installed these before and it went much smoother than I expected. You hear so many horror stories of headers not fitting (on cars at least), and this simply was not the case with these - there was no interference from the steering column or anything else for that matter. Pull the front wheels and inner fender wells, and everything is pretty much right there in front of you. There were no leaks when finished, and no retorquing has been required since then (January '06). My only complaint is the position of third driver's side pipe coming up instead of down, which makes for a hassle with the 2 rear spark plug wires. As for performance: I did these as the same time as the Radix, so hard to tell how much these alone helped. After seeing the dinky stock manifolds next to them though, it's obvious that there is a LOT more exhaust flow happening now. As for sound: It does sound a lot different than stock manifolds, since these are steel tubing and manifolds are iron castings (just like copper house water pipe is louder than cast iron). It is raspier/louder at idle, louder/meaner overall when cruising, and just awesome when the boost comes on up to WOT. When I get on it, I see poeple turning their heads a ways down the street. I already had a Magnaflow 2 in 2 out in the place of my stock muffler, which is pretty much an open muffler design and kinda loud also, but this made it better even when not under boost. I have no regrets with the Dynatechs - Just buy 'em, put 'em on, and enjoy.

I also did the same thing and it made a big difference. Now there is nothing in there, so I'm trying to decide if I should cut a couple ribs off and reinstall them, or leave them out completely.

That's $119 each spring.

I got mine off with an impact gun and long extensions, no cutting.

Here ya go; Belltech 2" drop Spindles #2508 - $223/pair at Jegs plus $11 shipping. Jeg's part #146-2508. Belltech's application page: http://www.belltechcorp.com/agps-final/btag012705.htm