04CHASE
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Posts posted by 04CHASE
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3 peat
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if anyone has the stock 5 rubber lines from an 03-05 ss with disc brakes i would like to buy them
if anyone has an old or un wanted intermediate steering shaft i want it as well.
send me pm or response to the thread with what you have thanks.
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i actually have a couple of those in my tool box in black .
that not a bad idea for the feed but there are plenty of other places to get it .
on my lsx block (pretty sure others have it too ) i got the feed from the driver side hex plug . just used a bushing .
i have also used the adaptor from vortech that gets a feed from the cooler similar to what your doing like i have below
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well not trying to spill the beans too much yet but it will a almost bolt in model like the kp components but it will be fully adjustable.
im going to set it up outside the frame , im going to fabricate a ne w hanger that will have a bracket on it to bolt the trailering arms too. this should be as strong as i need to it be with proper gusseting. the only thing i dont like is you still wont be able to fit a much larger rear tire. the part that limits that is the leafs/ and the inner fender well. so im not too worried as i have as wide as a tire as i need. The other mount on the axle will also be fully adjustable but not sure if i will be able to make it a bolt on as the lower u bolt perch is easily removed but the leaf spring mount isnt . so i may try to make something that will use that for clocking axle and maintaing proper pinion angle(although that will be determined by trailering arm legnth) . im going to be useing the nicest teflon lined heims and not poly bushings , i know they may be a bit more expensive but stregtnh and rigidity is what im after.
im ordering my qa1 springs next to get the coilovers complete . just having trouble finding a spring for 2100 lbs.
im also deceiding if i want to panhard or watts . i like the watts as it keep the rear centered better but is limited on travlel and takes alot of real estate. more than likly i will be running a panhard that is on top of the axle and mounted to the frame to keep it as flat as possible to reduce side to side movement.
ill be setting it up with over 100% anti-squat to keep the rear end from dropping on a launch and maintaining the weight on the front end to avoid front wheel spin as it is my weak point .
i also dont think the market is huge for this as the work involved isnt too bad but proper setup and clearancing everything takes alot more little work than you would think .
i just love the fact i can say it is built by me and know it was done 100% correct
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does anyone have a stock rubber set ? i will buy them . i want to start making these i just got a bad ass hydraulic hose crimper and just need a stock set to copy. if anyone does have them send me a pm please.
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nope doesent change anything as far as pcm / odometer is concerned , its a plug and play mod .
idaho, its a complete replacement of the factory airbag. im trying to work an exchange program but at this point it isnt possible to just swap the cover .
thanks for the kind words guys i really enjoy helping out and making everyone enjoy what they have worked so hard for , even when others take money and do not perform correct work .
im working on a few other things for the community i should have up soon.
as soon as i get my own shop i will be going bigger and making some very nice stuff , im finally getting where i want to be in life and will get to do what i enjoy the most.
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need a shaft and ill get this done quick style.
from what i can tell i have an easy fix , i will setup an exchange program to where i can send one out , u swap it and send back the core.
just need to find some old junkers , if anyone has one they can send me pm me and ill set this up .
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cool idea for sure . i wonder if i can get my buddy to make some fittings that go to the radiator that go to a -8 male that would be awesome , the other end goes to the cooler block iirc. that would just require a couple make fittings welded to it or a new one made with -8 male's into it , i could also get a block , drill it out and tap it for o ring thread so they could be installed but not sure there is much more room on it to allow bigger than a -4 fitting out of it.
post up some finished pics
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i have an idea i plan to modify the stock one and make it greasable to fic the clunk on any design .
does anyone have an old one they can send me ?
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is it just the picture or are your Baer brakes orange?
lots more changes coming , see the shopman bowtie . gm orange .
wait until you see it with a good camera , i just want to make a full thread of everything im changing to document for future reference and some parts i may put into production.
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good deal guys , if you want something that will knock the socks off of a magnacharger 2300 this will do it for sure. bump for a good kit
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ok i have been pouring in countless hours and dollars into it still
getting it ready for truckin throwdown ,
going with 4 d-shaft loops this is one on the rear u joint they will all be bolt in and easily removable without taking out the d-shaft as i weld lock nuts to the loop the front loop for the rear axle im still pondering what to do for a cross member , thinking some 1.25 tube will do nicely , the front is a bit more tricky as its fixed so i can have the cleanace between the loop and shaft much tighter(using 2.5-3.0 id tube for a 2.0 od shaft)
ive got the 4 link design in my head , just getting it to paper to figure out angles is all that is left. this is all being done by myself in my garage solo this time.
i have alot more that isnt posted as far as appearance / suspension and interior is concerned but time will tell for all of this.
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yeah hard to say without looking at it , do you have any one else's tune file you could try? copy all their trans properties and paste them in your tune to see what it does.
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thats very interesting. i really wanted to see that setup work with good results but as anything out of the box it takes alot of tinkering to get dialed .
but thats what great minds do , go outside the box . i have had some ideas of a few different turbo setup possibilities for the trucks but just need an extra guinea pig to play with . thinking something between a front mount and a rear mount aps similar.
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i told you where to get them , besides that they are cheap i rebuilt all my calipers for 40 bucks.
first you need to take them apart to see what they need two seals and boots or single seal and boots. i havent done the zo6 calipers but they are all pretty much the same .
also if you powdercoat you need to get some serious stripper to remove coating that got where the seals ride. i spent alot of extra time on mine but know they wont leak .
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paypal is find and [email protected] or pm me on this board.
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not saying it wont work in the cross over , for higher boost levels it works great because more flow is needed to spool the turbo , it comes a problem when lower boost levels are desired and cant let enough air bypass the turbo to minimze spooling.
it does work great and for the price , its very hard to beat. imo it would work great if it had the wg in the location art posted. imo
id like to see a side by side comparison with two turbo kits on the same vehicle/motor
one with kb's setup with the wg in the cross over and anoter with either manifolds or tubular headers with equal flow. i bet there isnt a huge difference but i will bet controlling boost at lower levels will be more difficult with the crossover mounted wg.
either way im really not knocking your kit as it has proven itself to be able to make power and run good ,however that was not the point.
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you want the wheels , you can email or pm me .
if you want a shipping estimate go to ups , enter 92508 to your zip code and it should show you what the time is , id guess 3-4 business days
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drop looks good but man is that a horrible design putting the bag on the spring and not the axle .
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well an exception has been made lol , that is much better and will work better for sure. i just prefer even flow on both banks but that will work good no doubt . im just saying im picky and doing it right with even legnth manifolds pre turbine pipes is the way to go for best results.
also imo oil/water cooled turbos ftw.
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rey , hit me up you can roll with me ,
if i can get put in major work tomorrow the ss just may make it , although on street rubber
just need to do , rebuild all calipers , install m bleed brakes, receive and install new qa1's . re-install sway bars and install the complete interior , long shot for sure but im not going to rush it to make it and not get it done right , the rear end is bare metal right now .
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got something on you mind ? speak if you have an update that pertains to the topic at hand.
im sure this is not only read by people in ca and many others who dont know me nor have ever met/dealt with me have replied . not alot of side taking to be had just opinions . which everyone is entitled to including yourself.
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well after research it appeards the new aeromotive is good at lower pressure's but at higher pressure isnt all that and will barely outflow my walbros at 60 psi (i run 40 psi base and 60 psi boost ref @ 20 psi) so not really worth the cost's to me .
a fuel cell with two big dog magnafuel's will be my choice eventually to make big power on e85 , but at that point none of my currment hardware will support that. that will require an even badder aluminum rodded motor with a serious crank and some serious twin turbo's.
i would be weary of taking a dragonslayer past 1500 hp
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ive had both as well and well turbo's make torque until the sky falls
imo no one makes a kit so to speak , they all use log manfiolds with wastegate on only one bank and work ok but are not ideal and you will see people overboosting on these"kits" since the wastgeate is on the cross over and not on the merge pipe where it should be so the one bank keeps spooling the turbo.
this is where sts kits are actually doing a bit better as they still have equal flow on both banks but have less heat to spool the turbo as quickly as a front mount .
a custom built turbo kit would be my choice similar to what spoolin has for a single.
the pt88 turbo is a good choice for a 408 and would do good on your current 408 with less compression and a new cam. so id opt for bigger cc heads in the budget as they will really help with keeping the timing in line and preventing knock
i wish i had an extra truck/mock up motor and i could get to building you a kit , although a flipped mani/ some tubular to a t4/t6 flange and bigger garret/precision would work awesome .
just get a ball park on what you have to play with and go from there . you will be pushing the limits of a 4l65e imo and may end up taking a few out in the process and will quickly add to an 80e swap.
let me know when your ready and i will do everything i can to help you get the spooling started.
Wtb Stock Brake Lines And Intermediate Steering Shaft
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
yeah i want all stock old ones , let me know if either of you guys have them and ill take them .
tyler you have my number give me a call and ill arrangt to come by