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WidowKiss

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Posts posted by WidowKiss

  1. well IMO i can only give you some suggestions. i havent personally dealt with subthump boxes but can answer your question on one or two. and the answer is how you install it.  i have personally done audio at work were 1 10" has been louder and sounds better than 2 12".  just dont worry to much about were air is coming from and how easyliy it will pass unless you are looking into competition. if you just want good bass i say go single box. but thats just my $0.02. i have only been doing audio for a couple years and havent excatly figured out all the kinks in everything.

     

     

    if I wanted to put in a 1 10" thump, what would I need for an amp? I'm looking to keep the stock Bose system so would it be possible? and roughly what would I be looking at price-wise?

     

    :dunno:

     

     

    I had the subthump ultra deep box for 2 12's. I had two JL 12W3v2's powered by a JL 500/1. I was not impressed with the sound, not very loud at all. The problem with even the subthump ultra deep boxes is that you can't really fit the BIG subs in it. So that is a big limiting factor to consider.

     

     

    Depends on the sub and the specs of it...the subthump boxes are very small for airspace. The reason one sub in it is louder and has better sound quality is there's more airspace for that one sub to operate in. In my opinion though 1cu' is never enough unless it's an 8". Put one quality 10" in the box.

  2. Some of you may remember it looking like this

     

    Subs_001.sized.jpg

     

    Well I got tired of not being able to hit a nice low of 20hz loud enough to make me want to turn it down. So I found a deal I couldn't pass up on a set of Dual 4 ohm 12" MTX 8500.

     

    NewSubs.jpg

     

    I added an 8" port running half way through the box (27") and I'll later wrap the box with vinyl, but I can't find anything but clear around this one horse town I was transfered to.

     

    More pics to follow...It was dark when I finished sealing the edges.

  3. I run HDMI, biggest difference it makes is on non HD channels signal (cleans it up nicely). HD does improve nicely though as well.

     

    IMO jew with them on the price (a/v accessories are one of the most profitable pieces [next to bedding/furniture]) typically they have 50%-60% margin or more in them so closer you get to $100 to better.

     

    I take it you are also buying monster cables...if they also sell Acoustic Research get their Pro II series HDMI (PR185,186,or 187 [depends on length])...less expensive then monster, however better constructed and shielded.

    Case in point

  4. What is the best truck alarm system out there..

    I was gonna post the same question with another question following. Are you gonna need to have the factory alarm removed or disconnected or will you have to carry the factory and 2ndary remotes with you? And if so are they gonna set each other off? :dunno:

    I dont know how the installer wired it up... But I dont carry the old fb and never had the old alarm go off...

     

    generally with any alarm in our trucks it requires a PLXR bypass (for factory installed Passlock systems) and 455u or 555U (I've been drinking tonight) for bypassing key in ignition to start

     

    good thing you have been drinking :cheers: . if you use the PLXR you will need the 555L for the key. or you can use the DEI 457G to do everything, control the factory alarm, does locks, dome light and the passlock interface.

     

     

    yeah that's the one...couldn't recall at the time

  5. What is the best truck alarm system out there..

    I was gonna post the same question with another question following. Are you gonna need to have the factory alarm removed or disconnected or will you have to carry the factory and 2ndary remotes with you? And if so are they gonna set each other off? :dunno:

    I dont know how the installer wired it up... But I dont carry the old fb and never had the old alarm go off...

     

    generally with any alarm in our trucks it requires a PLXR bypass (for factory installed Passlock systems) and 455u or 555U (I've been drinking tonight) for bypassing key in ignition to start

  6. Is this too much Auido in my truck
    :confused: Is this a trick question? :jester:

     

    Adding another sub amp is a good idea, I've bought an Orion 2500D for my subs (3500 watts @ < 1-ohm). 1000W per sub is sized just about right IMO.

     

    To me the biggest question is whether to loose the backseat or not. If you are trying for SQ then keep the backseat and get a good sealed enclosure sub, there are a couple in nearly the same league as the W7. If you are going for Street Beat then I say loose the backseat and make it worth your while, go with 15's.

     

    Mr. P.

     

     

    me personally...I have 8-8"s...although I'm thinking of doing 4-12"s in that box

    post-5274-1162429211_thumb.jpg

  7. I need help.... I can't figure out how to disconnect the sub under the dash?  Any ideas of the best way?  I took the consol apart and have acsess to the amp and can see the inputs and out put wires but have no idea what one feeds the sub?  Any idea where I could find a wire diagram for the stock amp? :banghead:

     

     

    why????

     

    I'm guessing the he added subs and an amp but didn't add another amp for highs/mids (either has stock hu or aftermaket) and when he turns it up the stock sub distorts horribly...I don;t know just guessing.

     

    I have no idea which wire it is for sure on the harness, but I just unplugged the factory amp.

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