dcairns
-
Posts
3,435 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by dcairns
-
-
I noticed my truck was a bit down on power when I was flooring it, and discovered that the intercooler pump was not running. Checked the plug for power, and that was okt. Gave the pump a whack and it started working
. Checked it again a bit later and it needed another whack, sounds like it is time to replace it. Searching around here, I see some guys saying the Meziere WP136s pump is a good upgrade at 20gph.Anybody tried it?
What about the Meziere WP116S at 35gph (more is better
)or the 40gph (too much is better still
)I have a large heat exchanger so I think the higher gallons per hour would be put to good use
-
The braking systems on the '03-05 AWD trucks are identical. Now on the later 2WD trucks, the lines at the rear will be different, because of the drum brakes...
Mr. P.
That is what I thought. But with contrary info from what Russell had in their catalog and when I called them and searching here, some folks had trouble with their lines fitting (I think those were Earl's kits, though), I figured I better be sure. I will go ahead and order some and see. thanks for the sanity check.
-
With Earls no longer making them, and Russles only doing 04 and up (I called them and confirmed what the catalog said). What lines are available for 03 AWD 4 wheel disc brakes?
-
-
-
I have a Canon 5d II, kit lens. Great camera, but it is HEAVY and I miss the pop up flash that my old Rebel had. The full frame sensor is nice, though.
-
It is a bit of a large PDF, but has lots of specs on the Silverado SS. Like the stock cam lift measurements. Grab a copy before some GM bean counter cuts the budget and it goes away.
http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/docs/Silverado/2003-Chevrolet-Silverado-SS.pdf
You can find other cars/trucks from this link
My linkhttp://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html
-
Yes, going to keep it white. Perhaps a bit boring, but that is where my memories are.
-
New engine is built. A 327 block stroked to 383. Looks stock on the outside, but some extra cubes inside. Could have made a lot more power if I did not have to stay with stock parts like the heads and intake.
Dyno run:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8
Car at the body shop after media blasting. Not much rust to deal with, one nice thing about living in California.
-
Actually, I started by asking the A/C shop that did the work on my 64 Impala. He recognized the symthoms and mentioned the TSB and to try the dealer. I will probably go back and see what he would do it for, or perhaps have him to the evac/recharge and other stuff, and do the grunt work of changing the compressor myself.
-
If there's any damage in the compressor it's already sent debris into the system. It needs to be flushed and the accumulator and orifice tube replaced if installing a new compressor otherwise you'll just kill a new one.A inline filter with a new compressor install is cheap insurance too.
The TSB seems to cover all those bases. The only plus I see for using the dealer is they offer lifetime parts and labor warranty. Considering I am a long term owner, not likely to change my truck for quite a while, and I almost always use the A/C / heater rather than have the windows down, that may work out to be a good deal. I would guess the new compressor would problably fail the same way in another 7-8 years.
-
Anybody had to replace their A/C Compressor due to "slogging" which causes squealing and chattering/rattling sounds ?
I got a quote of $1,000 from the local Chevy Stealship.
Seems like a lot of money for what is really a poorly designed part. Also, what part number did you use for the replacement compressor? seems to be several out there, GM Parts Direct sells a couple of Delco/Delphi types for about $350, dealer charges $500
-
Nice place to mount the controller without drilling stuff
-
You should be covered 8 years/80,000 miles by Federal Mandate, it's in your owner's manual......
Coverage can be denied if they decide modifications caused the failure. Been there,done that. I got a pair of cats from a fellow member here, who was getting rid of them. Sure beat the $1200 the dealer wanted to replace them.
-
If you like mountain scenery, take a drive into the mountains to the East of the city. We camped up there once when passing through and the weather was too hot in the city. We took Highway 92 up into the mountains to a campground up there. It was beautiful, wished we had time to explore more.
-
Or you could get one of those multi-function gauges that plug into your ODBII port.
-
I used a product by Spyder, since I use another product of theirs on my monitors.
-
I go to Barrett Jackson every year when it comes to Scottsdale and I see these cars that I drooled over when I was a kid. Chevelles, Mustangs, Cudas and I was wondering if the SS trucks will ever be collectors one day like these cars are now? The reason I ask is I have tossed around the idea of actually selling my truck. I hardly drive it and it just sits in the garage collecting dust. When I do drive it, it does get a lot of attention. I don't need to sell it, but was wondering if it would be worth holding onto for the next 10 or 20 years?
Sounds like your SS is a "collecter" already
-
Found it. Watched half of it so far. The hosts are nowhere near as funny as the British version. It looks like they are using the old El Toro Marine base here in Orange County for the test track.
-
I have not seen it yet, better go program the DVR
Perhaps you are missing the American car bashing? ;)
-
The instructions on those "bombs" say to cover waxed things, like floors, which tells me they probably have some undesired liquid spray in them that can attach waxes and maybe plastics.
From Raid's website for their Flea Bomb:
Cover waxed wood floors, waxed furniture, and stereo with plastic dust covers in the immediate area surrounding the fogger. (Newspapers may be used.)Also be aware of the potential for them to become a real BOMB. The fumes are flammable, probably the propellant. A spark from a switch in the car could ignite them (like opening the door, or turning on the engine) so let it naturally ventilate after the prescribed fumigation time. It might even be a good idea to disconnect the battery before it is bombed.
DO NOT use in a room 5ftx5ft or smaller; instead, allow fog to enter from other rooms. Turn off all ignition sources such as pilot lights (shut off gas valves), other open flames, and running electrical appliances that cycle off and on (e.g. refrigerators, thermostats, etc.). Call your gas utility or management company if you need assistance with your pilot lights. -
If you used a "bomb", I would be concerned with the effects of the spray on the plastics of the interior. You could get around that by putting news papers on top of the surfaces likely to get direct spray. The news paper would still allow the fumes to circulate enough to kill the bugs.
-
I would remove the paint from the affected area, wire brush off as much of the rust as possible. If the metal is still thick enough to carry on, use some rust remover like this stuff:
It takes some patience, but it is great stuff because it does not eat away at anything but the rust. So you don't have to worry about spoiling the paint around it or disolving your fingers off. It does need to be washed across the rust for a while, but it does doe the trick.
Once it is clean, spray with one of those rust converting primers and then follow up with some rattle can paints that match your car color, like duplicolor.
Or just take it to a body shop and let them do it for you. They may want to cut out the area and weld in a new section if it is bad enough.
-
wow nice pictures. Was this at John Force place?
No, this was the OC Fairgrounds. Huge event, I meant to get up on something and take a few long shots. It was cool to see many of the people/companies that I have been using for my 64 Impala restoration were exhibitors there.
Radix Intercooler Pump Upgrade
in Forced Induction and Nitrous
Posted
I think they make better fitting heat exchangers now especailly for the SS, although I am not sure where. I got this one back in '03 and it was actually made for a Ford Lightning
I had to trim the tabs and do some finger gymnastics to get it bolted in. The electric fans are a "must do" as they cool things down while you are at the stop light, waiting for the next full throttle launch. 