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dcairns

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Posts posted by dcairns

  1. I use ping all the time

     

    C:\>ping www.silveradoss.com

     

    Pinging www.silveradoss.com [208.82.133.27] with 32 bytes of data:

     

    Reply from 208.82.133.27: bytes=32 time=97ms TTL=48

    Reply from 208.82.133.27: bytes=32 time=96ms TTL=48

    Reply from 208.82.133.27: bytes=32 time=155ms TTL=48

    Reply from 208.82.133.27: bytes=32 time=141ms TTL=48

     

    Ping statistics for 208.82.133.27:

    Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),

    Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:

    Minimum = 96ms, Maximum = 155ms, Average = 122ms

     

    C:\>

     

     

     

    :jester:

  2. When I had my transmission rebuilt, I had a higher stall converter put in as well. The down side is higher transmission temps when towing. So to (hopefull) fix this, I got a aluminum transmission pan and a electric fan for my B&M transmission cooler.

     

    Mag-Hytec - Model: #4L60E-B

     

    IMG_2531.jpg

     

    Since the SS comes with a high capacity pan already, the replacement pan only holds about 1.5 quarts more than the stock pan, according to Mag-Hytec.

     

    IMG_2539.jpg

     

    IMG_2540.jpg

     

    If I had read the process for removing the transmission pan before I started, I would have gladly paid to have somebody else do it.

     

    Tranny Pan Help. Please Hurry.

     

    But I just dove in thinking it would be straight forward like my 64 Impala… But as others have noted, some idiot at GM designed the shift cable mounting and bracket such that it blocks removal of the pan. To make matters worse the bolts to remove it are on the top side of the transmission where they are hard to reach. I did the suggested “bend the bracket” routine and that got the old pan off. But to have enough room to bend the bracket, I had to remove the front drive shaft. That was not too big a deal, just unbolt the front u-joint and push it back to clear the yoke, then drop it down and pull it forward. Takes a bit of wiggling to get the last bit out, and likewise to get it back in.

     

    IMG_2524.jpg

     

    IMG_2528.jpg

     

     

    As I went to put the new pan in place, it was no surprise that it jammed against the exhaust. So I loosened the three driver’s side exhaust pipe to manifold bolts, and jammed a piece of pipe between the frame and body to hold the exhaust down and away from the transmission. This got me just enough room to get the new pan in.

     

    Clearly the designers in charge of the layout of things around the transmission pan should be sentenced to working at a transmission shop changing filters on Silverados for the rest of their lives.

     

    Functionality aside, this is a cool looking addition to the SS, just a lot more pain to install than it ought to be.

     

    IMG_2549.jpg

     

    IMG_2547.jpg

  3. Sounds like your truck is something you depend on. Why are you messing with the idea of installing an craigslist clunker ? I would just get the either the existing transmission rebuilt with upgraded parts, or get this used one rebuilt with upgraded parts and install it. If it was me, I would get your existing transmission rebuilt. You know where it has been, you only have a story from the seller of that other one.

  4. What is your Nationality?

    White

    Black

    Asian

    Hispanic

    Middle Eastern

    Native American

     

     

     

    nationality [nash-uh-nal-i-tee] –noun, plural

     

    The status of belonging to a particular nation, whether by birth or naturalization: the nationality of an immigrant.

     

    Seems like your question is flawed. Are you asking what country people are from or what race they are?

  5. Here is what I am going to do, as soon as funds allow. I already have the larger trans cooler with dual perma cool 8" Fans. but at the moment the fans are on a relay and switch which makes them user dependant. Instead of that I am going to use the Spal PWM V3 controller on it own temp sensor. That unit will control one fan like the 08+ truck fans. which is nice. Turn on temp will be 170* with fan 1 at 50% power. As temp increases, the fan speed will also increase. At 185* fan one will be at 100% power and fan 2 will be comanded on...

     

    Hope this gives you a good alternative

    Shop arround, I have seen this kit as low as $110

     

    Spal PWM v3

     

    Call me low-tech, but I was thinking more along the lines of a adjustable mechanical/electrical switch to turn on a pusher fan when things got hot enough.

    Only $23 :) I have been using this type of switch to control the supercharger's heat exchanger fans for several years now.

     

    Hayden Automotive 3653 - Hayden Electric Fan Controls

     

     

    I guess another possible way to augment the cooling is to add one of the B&M Hi-Tek cooler/fan systems they sell. I could add that to my existing cooler, in some out of the way place where it may not be very good without the fan, but would kick in when things get hot.

     

    B&M 70297 - B&M Hi-Tek SuperCoolers with Fans

  6. This link will let you see what lies ahead of you with your trans running at those temps.

    http://www.transmissioncenter.net/TransTemp.htm

     

    How big of a stall do you have in it now?

    I would be worried about the internals of the trans if you have ran at that high of temps for much of a time.

    You might want to do a fluid change and flush asap and make sure you don't have a clogged cooler or junk in the filter too. If you haven't changed the fluid since the rebuild you can have some crap built up in your filter or cooler that can be the cause if this.

     

     

    Yeah, I am familiar with those charts, that is why I am concerned and trying to do something about it. I did call the transmission shop that rebuilt it and he said that is to be expected with the high stall converter and while hot, he does not think this would have caused any harm. He did recommend looking into additional cooling efforts.

     

    The new torque converter is only a 2200 stall converter.

     

    I measured my stock pan, it is about 3" deep. There seems to be at least 3 more inches of room between that and the exhaust/frame. There is no temp sender in the pan (some aftermarket pans offer a hole in the pan for a temp sender).

     

    Checked the transmission fluid afterward, still nice clear red color, no funny smells.

     

     

    I already have a B&M 70274 SuperCooler rated at 29,200 BTU 11"x11"

    CRW_1116.jpg

  7. When I had my transmission rebuilt, I went for a bit higher stall converter. Now when I tow, the transmission temps are getting up to 230-340 going up a grade, but with mild weather. I can recall going up steeper grades in 90-100 degree weather and only seeing 190-200 degrees before, with the stock converter. I already have a big honking cooler installed, so I am thinking of adding a aftermarket transmission pan to give some more fluid capacity, which will hopefull help with temps. I am also thinking of a small pusher fan for the transmission cooler, on a thermostat switch so it is not running all the time.

     

    Anybody have any experience/advice on aftermarket pans? Do those pans with the tubes in them help or just a gimmik?

    I was thinking of a cast aluminum pan like the B&M 70260, adds 3 quarts of capacity, which will help. It also has some "cooling fins" , which may help a little too.

    B&M 70260 - B&M Automatic Transmission Deep Pans

     

    Any issues to worry about with a deeper pan? Will I need a different filter? :confused:

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