Bowtie70SS

I was told by my tuner/engine guy that the rev limiter on these trucks cut off fuel, not spark. About 2 weeks ago I was getting on the highway and came up next to a Z06. I downshifted and jumped on it and hit the limiter. That is the only time I ever hit it. I think it may have been broken for a couple of weeks and I didn't realize it. Only when my boost spiked did I think something was wrong. Upon closer inspection today I noticed #4 piston has a crack. Now I'm gonna have JE forged pistons, 030 over 9.5 to 1 compression, and a comp cam and patriot springs ti retainers and 10 degree locks. Ought to be a little stouter now, hopefully it'll last under my lead foot. Dave

Don't forget 2-4k more for engine repairs if you are a rod head like me

Head is off...nothing. I took it to a local LS1 specific tuner shop and had him check the head, gasket, and my compression readings and plugs. He said that stuff looked fine, bad news. I suspect I have broken the ring land but the tops look ok. Now the engine is out...took most of a day by myself taking my time and a trip to the parts store and a couple of hours at the tuner. It definately was not the hardest engine I've ever pulled. It's sitting on the stand in the garage. I'm gonna pull it down to the short block tomorrow and do some more investigating. The guy (Dave) at the shop(DTP) quoted me $3200-3500 for a built 408 shortblock and around 2k for rebuilding mine including a cam. I have built probably 15-20 small/big chevys but I am limited on time and I don't want to F anything up I can't afford a mistake so he suggested the following: JE (or equalivant) pistons, balancing the assembly, ARP main studs, ARP rod bolts, over bore if needed, timing set, race bearings... He has a great rep around here and he does quality work lots of C5's and TA's and Camaros, even a 375whp NA 5.3 silverado 4WD. I hate messing shit up but you gotta pay if you wanna play. I'll just have to get it over there tomorrow and see what's up. Later Dave

Mister P...I did the test 3 times. I had the TB open and cranked it until the gauge stopped rising. If the gasket is not blown, then what am I looking at? If it were a piston issue I would think that it would be smoking or have some kind of blow by. It dosen't make any noise which leads me to believe there is not a valvetrain problem, and that only leaves the head gasket. Even if it is a piston, the head still needs to come off. I'm really not excited about having to do it but oh well that's the price you pay I guess. Thanks...I was thinking about the leakdown test but I don't know anyone with a set of gauges. Later Dave

#6 is 70 , there is definately something going on there on the passenger side head. I watched the compression gauge (I did it by myself) and the passenger side built a lot slower than the drivers' side. What about the head bolts? Are they torque to yeild? Thanks!! Dave

Are fel-pro MLS head gaskets PN# 375-1161L and 375-1161R and a set of ARP head bolts a good upgrade? Those fel-pro gaskets are $82.99 each and the bolts are $136.99 which is a drop in the bucket to keep from having to do it again. I guess I sound like I'm trying to gold plate it, but I don't want to F it up again. Thanks Dave

Ok...Compression test #1 115 #2 100 #3 125 #4 120 #5 125 #6 70 #7 128 #8 100 Did the test with TB open and air intake tube off. I am gonna put 2 new head gaskets on it. There is no coolant leaking as far as I can tell. Oil is ok, no bubbles in radiator overflow. What is the best head gasket(s) to use? I assume the head bolts are torque to yield and I already have a torque angle gauge. Any other tips? What about head studs...good idea? I don't wanna do this again, I don't think I have the patience to do it again. Dave

I went to the track today to race, and on my first run it bogged on take off. Then it wound up shifted to second and as it did I buried the Magna charger boost gauge at 11. When I tried to give it gas the boost jumped up quickly, I idled down the track and made a blistering 23 second pass. I went back to the pit area nad the motor idles ok, with a very slight shudder and the vaccum side of the gauge used to read 20 and now reads 18-19 at idle. I was reving it a little and heard a whistle when I cracked it a little WTF? I had it towed home and it's cooling down so I can do a compression test. BTW oil looks normal, no blowby coming out of the valve covers, and no oil or bubbles in coolant reservior no smoke from tail pipe. I was watching the boost and scan gauges intently and let off of it the minute the boost spiked. The funny thing is that now when I rap it I can build 5 psi of boost and before it would barely go to 1-1.5 when reving it in neutral. I am tring to do a search on here to find out but haven't had any luck yet. I also threw a P0102 Low MAF voltage code but there is no SES light on. Any suggestions? Thanks!! Dave

Anyone going to Chevellabration next weekend? It's the giant national all Chevelle car show put on by A.C.E.S. That would also be Chuck Hansen's home car show...it's in Goodlettsville Tenn. I'm heading down Thursday from the Cincinnati area in a caravan with 5-6 Chevelles. I'm not gonna take the SS because it sounds a little better to save $150 worth of gas, unless... They do have a drag race night that might be fun. It will be my first time going and it'll be a blast to see 3-400 cars all 64-72 Chevelles, El caminos, wagons. Later Dave

I guess since no body else replied Super Chevy Indy!!! I'm J/K but it would be nice, it would kill 2 birds with one stone for me. The Motel 6 there at the Crawfordsville Rd exit it always a good time burnouts, the occasional flashing, lot's of drinking(not at the same time as driving...disclaimer lol), the pool. It's a big party already and I already have that time off of work. Dave

Funny...I have had those same bad experiences. Lowe's is also where I spend my/my customers' money. Dave

What does the other door and tailgate look like? That would be the easiest way for a "bodyman" to tell.

Well... I figured out what caused my P0748 code. Some dumbass(me) forgot to hook the pressure solenoid back up. I dropped the pan and there it was. Works great now. Dave

I would not expect any part of it to be cheap...I just keep a jar of vasoline in the console for when I have to go to the dealer, takes the sting out a little. Dave

Worked this morning on high #5 and 2 hours later it dosen't work. Is there a blower resistor or a control box/module? I'm guessing it's probably not the switch couldn't be that easy. I'm hoping someone can save me a little troubleshooting. Damn I'm getting sick of fixing electronics...they make such easy things so complicated. Hell think about it by 1970 the big 3 hada their strongest most durable automatic transmissions:THM400 C-6 727 and they have done nothing but make weaker ones ever since. Why would they use a control cable those only last 30 or 40 years. Damn Dave

I was assuming that the sensors are built inside the TB...not servicable? I paid $169 for a new one today and put it on. I did the coolant bypass while I was at it. Dave

Been there done that...I was overseas in the Military when my ex left. You're better off. I say that because you definately want someone who's gonna love you back, it can't be all one-sided. Good luck, chin up! Dave

Nothing says "You're #1" like a middle finger...gotta love the shirt!

I'm pretty sure it has to do with moisture. It was ok when I drove it tonight. It finallly got warm here in the past couple of days. I think my ram air hood also works well as a ram water hood. I really need to make a shield to cover the filter for when it rains. I'm gonna buy a new throttle body tomorrow because I'm pretty sure my old one got wet inside...then I can take the old one apart and see what makes it tick! Later Dave

I forgot to mention that I was quoted $115+tax for 3 pulls with datalogging. I would love to pull this off...otherwise I have to pray I can get to the Indy meet and bribe somebody into tweaking my tune a little. Dave

I found a AWD Dyno in Columbus, Ohio at Slowmotion Motorsports. The problem is they don't have the hub adapters for 6 lug. I guess that means it's a dynapack? I e-mailed the guy a link to the SilveradoSS site and told him there may be major interest if he were to buy the adapters. There e-mail is [email protected] and here is a link to their website. If anyone around here is interested please e-mail them and let them know. I would love a hour drive to a AWD dyno. Thanks!! Dave

How could I have forgotten about the SS454 trucks! Too bad they didn't put much of a engine in them...what were they 250HP? You can pump them up easy enough, they had a THM400, and a 3:73 Dana rear...All you need is a good set of heads, a cam and a bigger Throttle body...perhaps a Edelbrock Multi-port conversion. Dave

PM sent Dave

How about doing it at IRP at the Super Chevy show? I'm gonna be there anyway stayin at the Motel 6 on Crawfordsville rd. The show is July 14,15,16 it would be nice to do it then. I really want to meet up with some of the other SilveradoSS family. I was considering racing, but not if I don't get my truck all ironed out. For those of you that have never been to the Motel 6 there, it is usually a pretty wild time. Sometimes more fun than the show. June 8-10 is Chevellabration so that's out but the following weekend or 2 would be ok I guess. Later Dave

Haha...were you behind the wheel of his S-10? How in the hell is he gonna sue you for the fact that he is a dumbass? Good luck Dave