dawgbone

MAP sensor and MAF will cause it too... But in IronmanKen's case, I do believe it's just a relearn thing....It's a GM thing....and it's very slow to learn...I've had to loan up my battery to get a generator started, it took a couple hundred miles, or a weeks worth of commute to and from work, before it finally got right....Alot of stop and goes will speed up the process

This is true....after my first one died, my second died within a week...my 3rd is pushing 6 months now. But when mine was reading low, it never tripped the charge DTC...It wasn't till the alt finally died, that it tripped the DTC... Grab up a MAP sensor after your clean the upper motor....and if you still have those old plugs, use those for cleaning....and re-install the newer ones after... I believe the MAP sensor was the sole cause to my issues....but after a suggestion from myold man, I decided to go ahead and do the clean up...

Gotcha....I guess I was just expecting more of a roar sound from a hub bearing...It makes sense now, that for one it's AWD, and two, the ABS issues...which leads me to believe that there is more, than just the bearing that's dicked up. When I pulled the ABS sensor, it was pretty clean and visibly undamaged...What exactly does the ABS sensor look at? a magnet on the CVA?

Are you seeing lower RPM's? below 600-800? Have the upper engine cleaned(intake) Clean your MAF sensor(gently) and buy a new MAP sensor....a new PCV(if applicable) is a good idea. then buy new plugs(after upper cleaning) I had this, more-so with the A/C running....it eventually got so bad that at times the engine would stall after a quick throttle stab, and quick brake....(GM ECU's are slow to react) I noticed it mostly on a cold motor....with AC on....

that's how I removed mine...I just reach under the bumper with one hand to push it back and tugged with my other hand. try popping the front out first..

ahhh....hhaa.... I was thinking this as well, but was confused as nearly everything on this forum was pointing to the diff... would definetly explain myABS issues... http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36982 Thanks bro....I don't guess I can get by pulling/pressing that bearing without popping off the spindle? [EDIT] nevermind, just read Mr.P's How-to....looks like the hub can be taken out of the spindle...

I have that outside noise on the driver's side too.. I'm suspecting the carrier bearing or CVA...I can only hear it at slow speeds, and when I give slight pressure to the wheel. Driving completely straight will silence it. But slightest bit of pressure(more left than right) the noise comes back. And it does sound similar to the dust shield scraping the rotor. But I'm almost 100% positive that it's not the case. I'm having a hard time deciding to let the dealership do mine, or do it myself. KelleyPerformance....Is it routine to re-shim the carrier/pinion after you replace the carrier bearings? Although I'm going to replace both, which one is the problem child?

Does anyone know the size of that nut or GM P/N?

That was going to be my first response, as it's probably about the best....but a dog will have to take a dump eventually.. As for switches...just break the 12v going to you starter...I like the light trick mentioned above, but you would need some kind of solenoid to do it. If you have the highbeam wire harness(lows on during high beam), you could even use the solenoid that came with the harness...in which, you would only be able to start the truck with high beams... very seldom would a thief turn on headlights, before they got the vehicle running....nor would they think to turn them on if it were mid-day.

Wow....crazy story.... I lived in SD for 3-4 years where I owned a Honda Accord(temp car while in the Navy)..... 3 HU's gone(including one of those sweet 3disc indash Alpines)....car busted into 6 times....steering column replaced twice....car eventually stolen, stripped, and burned on the side of the road... I even managed to scare them off once. I had a pager alarm with remote start. I woke to it buzzing, and remotely started the car. Within a minute or two, they had already had the HU out of the dash, but wires still connected... That would have been HU #4... tough love out in Cali.....at least for me... LoJack stickers didn't help, and I even considered embedding a shotgun shell in my steering wheel, attached to a firing pin with a 2 minute delay after a speakerless/hornless alarm went off.....but I'm pretty sure that's illegal in your state... I did learn something out there, and it sounded like good advice, was not to let a shop install your alarm, and do it yourself. The installers out there are more often than not, thieves.... It's crazy to think that all they wanted was your Nav unit....yet they had to steal your entire truck to get it....What sucks, is that a fuel cut-off won't stop them from trying...replacing steering colums get's pricey....Maybe just remotely install a fuse, like in your center console, or under the dash.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04-05-20...sspagenameZWDVW Fill out form and fax....pay $440.... two days later...unpack new cluster pull old cluster(about 3-5 minutes) install new cluster(about 3-5minutes) send old one back receive $200 back cheaper than at the stealership, and supposedly are reman'ed with upgraded servos

wow was I throwed off, guess it helps to look at the right gen codes.... funny thing is, 2101 looked familiar ......Throttle position something or other on the predator...and I'm fairly stock... It happened during installing a new MAF and MAP....I just erased it and so far it hasn't come back...

Dunno about on this truck(yet) but it's usually a nasty job.... I would pop the thermostat out and boil it to see if it works...or better yet, just replace it anyways....it's worth checking into...at least but it does sound like the heater core...

I did a quick search...and like you, found some junk about vertical and horizontal switches.... But it seems to me that it has something to do with the seat controls...If you look down this list, just past the code you are seeing, they are talking about lumbar and whatnot.... http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/...y-obd-codes.php What are you using to get these codes? All I have right now is a VIN locked Predator to get and reset codes, I would love to get the code for my broke-ass seat heaters, if there is one...Just wondering if my Predator is capable of getting those type codes....

You can check with these guys I resorted to them as per suggestion in a post on this forum. Great guys if you ask me. And supposedly the clusters are rebuilt with upgraded servos. But I doubt that he would have the Intimidator cluster, but I'm sure thy can program it for you. He would probably take your old one off of you as well...

I think I'm over the burnout phase.....I truly love the AWD....I'd rather hook up and get on with it....especailly when needing to jump out there without spraying the poor fookers behind me with rocks... ashame I cannot get AWD new, unless I do the Denali thing.....but I can't stand the fag chrome....I mean the chrome in general. That's for the 1950's genre...chrome is for old-schoolers...where it belong'ed on 50'ish make bumpers. Funny enough, the 03 AWD truck I own is the latest truck I've seen that's offered with absolutely zero chrome. Too bad I can't get a new one.

I really wish I had enough engine to pull through the gears like that.... the only downfall to it, is that I use my truck differently and more/less daily driven, towing, and with occasional long interstate trips.... 04Chase, what kind of compression and boost are you running?

I replaced mine with the updated part just yesterday. I just cannot see where the clunk was coming from. Maybe the shaft was bouncing around from the rubber mount that it's pressed into. As the new one is solid steal with no rubber mount. To be honest, I was exspecting the shaft to not be able to slide very well and where the clunk was coming from, but that wasn't the case. I usually have a good understanding of how things work, but this truly puzzled me, and I had my doubts. But go figure, replacing the shaft did in fact get rid of the clunk. Can everyone confirm that their new shaft is pressed into solid steel, and does not have the rubber mount? USMC....it's probably your pump, and not your box. Why they would even think to replace the box is beyond me. Did they at least replace the fluid? Is the fluid low? Is it overfilled? Is the fluid dirty? If it is low or high, check the rack for leaks. It should jump out at you. The intermediate shaft would have nothing to do with the pump, or the noise you're hearing. Nor would it cause any damage to your power steering. The mechanics that replaced your shaft would have something to do with it though.

that's funny..... I hate to be the ball buster...but to be able to spin up all 4's...you are going to have to caugh up some dinero... and to fix everything that you broke...you are going to have to caugh up some dinero...so you can do it again.... my best advice is to go out into a grass field...tow-mode in 1st....and have fun http://flemdawg.com/Movies/SS.wmv

Whirring doesn't sound diff'ish to me....They usually whine or grind...I'm almost positive that my carrier bearing is on it's way, but I hear it low speeds and while turning(not a whirring). I guess mine could be a CVA, but it feels and looks fine while off the ground. Does it make a difference if you crank over the steering wheel or at least put pressure on it from one side to the other? Is it only at high speeds? Is it speed dependant? Is it RPM dependant? It could be a ton of different things. An although the carrier bearing seems to be a common issue, it just doesn't sound like it from what I've read. tire rotation tire pressure(especially now that it's starting to get colder) idler/tensioner pulley's(RPM dependant) water pump(RPM dependant) U-joints(speed dependant) tires/balance/inflation(speed dependant) Brakes(ugggh) CVA's(speed dependant) Hub bearings(speed dependant) how many miles are on the truck? BTW...my 03AWD has about 120k on her...I can kinda hear the diffs on throttle at high speeds(no sound on coast)...they are worn, but nothing major, it's normal.....I also have a 80mph funk vibration(always has) and I suspect an unbalanced drive shaft...I feel it most inthe throttle pedal/floorboard for some reason, passengers don't seem to feel it....just putting that out there.....

well that's funny to me, cause I'm about 98% positive that's how it worked for me. And what's even more screwy, is that I have never had a problem with it, until I let my sister borrow my truck for the day, she came back asking why it was cutting off. After talking a little more about what it was doing, she mentioned that she used the back button(vertical button). I guess, her hitting the back button broke my heaters.....

+1...I've used them for years from boat and trailers, to both my car and truck. Great guys and fast shipping. They even have a vehicle crossover link for most vehicles. Cept I use their other site http://superlumination.com/1156_1157.htm there is a few places that need resistors though....the glove box....bed illumination....and blinkers... I have no idea of what resistors to use though. I would like to know as I'd love to get rid of my SilverStar chromed bulbs. the glove box is some how integrated withyour map lights. If your map lights are sucking, then look to the glove box. the only non-led bulbs on my SS are the headlights, tail/brake lights, and front blinkers. random pics:pay no attention to the grey "scoops" they've been repainted http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j119/dawgbone4/SS/

I wish I could add some help to the topic, but mine stopped working right at the end of last winter, so I haven't been able to troubleshoot it. The crappy part about it, is that it actually works for about a minute or so, then shuts off. If I continually keep pressing the button after it shuts off, I can eventually get my seat semi-warm. I don't know how intelligent it actually is, as they damn near give a burning sensation when they work, but most cars won't let them go for too long or get too hot. So I'm thinking that there is some kind of thermostat? Crappy thing about that, is that both seats are doing the same thing, with about the same interval. just to continue rambling, it sucks if you accidentally hit those buttons during the summer....after 10 minutes of driving, you realize they are on...then you realize that your seats aren't going to cool down any time soon to ramble on further...my truck is going through it's share of crap.. -intermediate steering shaft(on order) -Speedo broke(out of warranty and on order) -tranny shifting like a fag sometimes -think I'm hearing the diff carrier bearing going to the shits(or CVA) -ABS is still acting up(temporarily pulled ABS fuse) I'll get her kicking at full steam again....but man...what a headache...

couldn't have said it better.... I've heard of output housings letting go on the road, resulting in a dropped shaft and more/less catapulting the car onto it's lid(probably more of a freak accident).....fire....brand new and totaled....possibly death. I guess it's like they say, could've been worse.... so what is GM's take on the LTZ?

my speedo is broke...stuck at 120+(might get me out of a speeding ticket....might)....and numerous light bulbs do not work...(tranny temp and fuel) the only reason why I haven't fixed it yet is... -waiting list on parts availability(was told 2 weeks out) -was told that they have to remove the old cluster....send it to GM...have them collect mileage off of it...apply it to the new one...send it back..install new one....in other words...be without my truck for a long time -and that I installed a Pioneer Avic Z2 that has an extremely fast and accurate speedo built in...as well as an accelerometer I hope this does indeed happen....as I'm way out of warranty and I'm about ready for some drivetrain maintenace....as well as the steering shaft...oh...and my ABS problem.... dang...after typing that...my truck is beginning to sound like a POS.....I need to get this stuff taken care of ASAP.... still running like a clock...hauling ass...and looking good @ 120+k