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PladdPezzPunk

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Posts posted by PladdPezzPunk

  1. Never was tired of mine. still liked it till the day i sold it. just needed to liquidate something that was costing me money. i eliminated the 3 biggest thing that was costing me and it was costing me the 3rd most.

     

    In order

     

    girlfriend= biggest cost (banging head on wall, should have eliminated that and kept all toys)

     

    race car= second biggest expense

     

    SS Silverado= after supercharger became huge.

     

    I would take it back in a second if i could though. maybe in a year, i'll call the guy and ask him if he wants to sell.

  2. don't buy the tool, its a complete waste of money and a scam from the parts stores taking advantage of people not being knowledgeable enough. You can reset it on your own. I've never laughed so hard when i saw the salesmans face when i told him to go rip someone else off. He had just told me that he sold 5 that day to other shops. I guess people like throwing money out the window.

     

    1st, did you have your tires rotated. or changed?

     

    1 turn on ignition

     

    2 set parking brake

     

    3 lights off to parking light 4 times and horn will beep.

     

    4 go LF tire, RF tire, RR tire, LR tire in sequence and let at least 10 psi out of each tire. (I usually make sure by almost flatening the tire. the computer is looking for at least a 10 psi change in pressure) the horn should beep when you let enough out then proceede to the next tire.

     

    5 turn off ignition

     

    6 repeat from step 1 but inflate the tires this time. (this is optional but i usually do it for reassurance)

     

    then go through the menu in the DIC and verify that all the tires are reading proper pressure. If they are you will be good to go. If on say's error, or 0psi or any other crazy reading, try the sequence again. If still no avail, then the one that reads wrong may need to be replaced. Hope this helps. Any other questions, let me know, i'm happy to help you out.

  3. I've always been a huge believer in Fluidyne. one of the things that will really seperate them from the rest is the thin fluid passages that run through the aluminum fins. it provides much better cooling from a smaller surface(instead of a line that runs across fins like used on the two mentioned above). I used 2 14000btu coolers paired with the factory cooler and eliminated the radiator altogether. also for the most part, using a quality converter in the 9-10 inch range will effictivly lower your tranny temps if your going for a higher stall. I mounted to coolers on up and down on each side of the top heat exchanger and left the factory cooler behind the heat exchanger. I set up the flow path so as the bottom heat exchanger would get the coolant from the blower first so by the time it went through the top one, it was basically ambiant temps.

     

    All in all, i could beat on the truck all day with the 2800 stall and the tranny temps never saw above 200 degrees. trust me when i say beat, i was hammer down alot and with tow sometimes. 3 trannys in 1 month...........hehehe. its all good though.

     

    check the link............. http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_hpaccessories.html see part number FPH-10026

  4. i may be a little out of line, but, ........... I won't give anyone my hard earned money unless they earned it. Respectible homless people pick up cans or do other things of the liks and try to earn their money, beggers who don't do anything other than sit arround all the time have no respect in my book. Who are they to ask for a donation from me, after all, i worked hard for the money i have now.

  5. looks very cool , they should have made them for the 6 bolt warhawk and lsx block too. selecting a cam for a motor like that is going to be a bit different though. id like to se ehow they do on a huge cube motor.

     

    not really. people wait for things. I have a 500 ci lsx block that i picked up about 2 months ago. (i did have it machined that way.) The great thing is the flow numbers. you don't need to run a huge cam either to make power for this. as it goes, the blower should allow for a minamal ammount of overlap with a semi agressive lift. Price is a little wow but all things considered, when i compare them to a dart head, by the time i'm finished with machine work, the price is about the same. point being, all in all, looks like an excellent value.

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