foxySS

What did you guys who have had your front diffs repaired pay? I took it to a shop that does our work vans and he says it's toast and it would be a minimum of $1900 to repair it and could be more. Doesn't a new diff cost around $2,000? Curious to hear what you guys think.

Ooops, sorry wrong section. Mods feel free to move it.

What is the most likely culprit? My front diff is making a lot of whining/groaning at all speeds and it is very evident with small speed changes. I started noticing it getting pretty bad last week and it has progressively gotten worse every day. I was driving home today and I could start hearing it over my stereo and it seems to be vibrating more. Last time I had the fluid changed (about 3000 miles ago) the plug was covered with metal shavings, and big ones at that. Not a good sign- time to take it in.

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I'd be down, depending on the weekend. I'll see if my brother wants to bring his ride too.

Yeah, thanks. I brought it over to a friends house and his impact gun had no problem. I think it's time to upgrade to higher torque.

Okay, I'll try that. It is an aftermarket alternator so there's a good chance it's got loctite on it.

That's what I was using but I can't fit a 1/2" gun in there so I tried a 3/8". What's the best way to stop the pulley from starting to spin while using the gun? As hard as I grip it with the pipe wrench it still starts to move.

What's the best way get this thing off? I tried removing the fan shroud on my s-10 and using an impact wrench while holding the (duct taped) pulley with a pipe wrench but it doesn't appear to be budging. Is the nut reverse thread? Anybody have any tips?

I was backing into the garage and was correcting my angle and crushed it. Anyone know where to find the part #? My Vin is: 2GCEK19N031391308

$4 for 92 yesterday

Cool Thanks!

Just curious because my job offers deals with new GM vehicles. Someone at work told me it is basically employee pricing. I'm sure someone that works at a GM dealership knows the answer to this.

Northwestern all the way!

Sounds like it could be a power supply problem. Contact your cable company to see what they think. P.S. I work for the cable company... A couple other things to try... - If your modem has a reset button try pressing that for a few seconds. If not, unplug the power from the back of the modem for a few seconds and then plug it back in. - Try release/renew in the cmd prompt (DOS). Go to Run, type in CMD, once the DOS screen pops up type ipconfig. You will see your IP. On the next line, type ipconfig /release. On the next line type ipconfig /renew. Now wait a few seconds and see if you can get online. - If that doesn't work, try going into network settings and disable you Local Area Connection. Then Re-enable it. See if it works. - Go to 192.168.100.1 and look at the diagnostics. Downstream power level should be somewhere inside -8 to +8dBmv and upstream levels should be somewhere in between +40 to +53dBmv. You can deviate a little bit from these numbers but only a couple points for it to still be within working range. These numbers will change with ambient temperature outside. Hope that helps.

My brothers truck threw a bunch of codes the other day. Anybody have any ideas what these mean or why they might be happening? Diagnostic Trouble Codes P0120 "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P0220 "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P1516 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P2108 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Performance" EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" U0107 "Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator Control Module " EPA ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P0120 "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit" H ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P0220 "Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit" H ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P1516 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance" H ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" P2108 "Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Performance" H ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" U0107 "Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator Control Module " H ($10) "Powertrain Control Module (PCM)" C0281 "Stoplamp Switch Circuit" H ($29) "Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)" C0298 "Powertrain Control Malfunction" H ($29) "Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)" U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" H ($40) "Body Control Module (BCM) or Dash Integration Module (DIM)" U1000 "Class 2 Data Link" HC ($89) "Digital Radio Receiver (DRR)"

McCain

Chase, I was thinking it could be a possibility with a ballast or something, but these are not cheapy sets. tHe McCulloch sets cost around $300 each.

Yeah, same one...

I helped my brother install HID's in his truck and they work great- except for some of the time when he starts the ignition only one of them comes on. When he turns the ignition off and then back on it comes on. This happens like 1 in 4 times that he turns the ignition. BTW, they are the same exact ones I have and I haven't ever had any problems. Anybody have any ideas?

Damn man, that really sucks... Like everyone else said though, there are still the important things- your family and a roof over your head. P.S. you might want to think about changing your avatar pic now.

You will love that deck. I have it and it kicks ass.

www.xenonpros.com That's where I got mine and have loved them ever since. Great quality... I've had them for about 6 months so far.

First name: Chris Last Name: Fox