perk03z06

When you try this ... you get 2 options ... do her in the Jeep, or get a BJ ... both were GREAT! (Like I was actually there ... ) ...

HOW??? Do you just follow her into the bedroom when she's changing ... ??? Closest I got was staying the night, in her bedroom got naked, she got naked ... and then told me to go sleep on the couch ... like the mutt that I was ...

She kept me up until 4AM ... I still haven't figured out how to get in the bed, or the knob-job @ the lake ...

I love that sig! ^^

Pull the fuel pump relay when you park it at night.

I got her on the couch!!! ... and got a 10! 1. Play Music: Jazz 2. Kiss on Lips while dancing 3. Stop Dancing & Go Somewhere Else 4. Click on the Jeep - Go Out for Dinner 5. She changes - Wait in Hallway 6. Go to the Bistro 7. Click on Menu 8. Click once on dinner plate 9. Compliment Her 10. Talk to Her 11. Drink Wine 12. Get the Check 13. Go to Art Exhibit 14. 1st is Renoir 15. 2nd is Durer 16. 3rd is Rembrandt 17. Head Back Home 18. Dress Casual 19. Wait in Hallway 20. Go Someplace Else - Livingroom 21. When she asks about making out ... click drink wine. 22. Kiss her 23. Drink Wine 24. Kiss Again 25. Massage Shoulders 26. Drink Wine 27. Rub Boobs 28. Put pointer over a nipple - "Take off her Shirt" 29. Put pointer over a nipple - "Kiss Her Nipples" 30. Give Back Rub 31. Take Off Pants 32. Massage her Thigh 33. Take Off Panties 34. Get it On

Can you post a schematic?

I'll sell one to ya chase ... cheap! (It's got a leak, though)

When you're wired for 4-8 ohms for the subs ... you should get 4, or 2 or 1 ohms resistance, if you wired correctly. If your subs rated 4-8 (dual voice), then wire your subs 2-4. For the most part, wiring a single dual voice coil sub is like wiring 2 subs in one. 2 voice coils = twice the resistance, so a 4 ohm circuit should really measure 1 ohm of resistance. (1 ohm is twice as much as 4. 4x2 = 1 ... weird math, I know. But, google ohms law and it'll make sense, or check it out here)

I definitely agree w/ mastergun ... but I've never seen a ported box hit harder than a sealed box. (Ported offers more "flex" than sealed does ... once a sealed sub hits, the vacuum from the sealed enclosure draws the voice coil closer to the magent quicker, and gets the sub ready for the next "hit") Could just be the experiences I've had ... possibly mastergun knows more about box building than I do ... When I built a box for my buddy's 12" Soundstream's ... they needed 1cu. ft. of air behind them, and 750 watts RMS, 1000 Peak. We built a sealed box to those specs ... and man, did they hit ... HARD. It felt like someone was punching you in the chest. (They were dual voice coil subs, though) Nonetheless, my buddy overheated them about a month later, and rolled his car not long after that ... so ... it ended up being a lost cause. But ... his system sounded wicked!

Man ... I hope it's not GREEN!

:crackup:

I agree with the guys here ... as far as a sealed or ported box for the subs ... If you put the subs inside the box, make sure you design the box to the air tolerances of the sub. IE - If the sub calls for 1 cu. ft. of air behind it ... make sure that chamber is exactly 1 cu. ft. Especially if you decide to go sealed. Sealed boxes with the proper amount of air volume behind the sub will hit very hard ... if that's what you're looking for. If you want to harness the much lower frequencies ... ported is the way to go. And, if you decide to go sealed ... make sure to caulk all the joints and corners inside the box. This will keep the air leaks away ... I had a real nice Q-Logic box in one of my old cars that was both ported and sealed. (Behind the sub was sealed, and in front of the subs was ported) ... that was a real nice box, and it sounded great.

No TBSS ??? Nice SUV, though ... how is it on gas?

I'd like to hear a soundclip of that, if you can get one ...

I agree with CHASE. Having a beater definitely makes you appreciate your nice ride when you finally drive it. ... no sh*t! I just turned loose of $75 to fill up last week ... that hurt. ... I LOVE that avatar ... I wanna find out who that is ...

With him drivin' a van, it's prolly a good thing you were in your truck ... and nothing smaller. Buddy of mine in FL just got clobbered by an Explorer going around 50 ... and he was stopped completely when he got hit. He said it pushed his rear bumper in about 4 feet under the truck. Damn good thing he was in his truck & not in the '96 Intrepid he usually drives ... someone would have gotten hurt or killed if he was in that car & got hit by an Explorer going 50 ...

That's was probably the dumbest vid I've ever seen ... definitely not getting those 2 minutes of my life back ... This one's much funnier ... Funny Vid

I was thinking you got chosen for jury duty ... Good to hear you've worked hard on getting things cleaned up. Good luck finding a work truck ...

If you want a light on the dash to come on, (IF the light is even there) you should probably look at programming the IPC module, since that's the module that manage's the IP Cluster's functions. What you are trying to do will probably be a 3-part Custom Program. First part would be to modify the IPC to recognize an input coming from the vehicle network (such as Fuel Rail Pressure) and them program the PCM to send the IPC module the Fuel Rail Pressure data. Then, modify the IPC again to switch on/off the "Wait to Start" lamp when the proper conditions are met. What you're looking to do is somewhat complex if you want it done programatically ... might be easier to hard wire a light to switch on/off once the fuel pressure has reached a target pressure ... JMO.

Movie looks good!

Those are some fine looking rides you both have there. Awesome pictures ... looks like you spent some time detailing, too. All you needed was a red one to compliment the blue and black ...

WTF ???