thunder550

Splitting helps reduce warping when the material expands as it heats up. Is your split right in the center between the two adjacent bolts? If so, it's probably designed that way.

Crossover Downpipe Mid-pipe with cutout Manifold

Hey everyone, I've got the hot side piping from my front mount turbo kit for sale. I'd like to start by saying that I know I don't have any reputation on this board, but I am a moderator over on performancetrucks.net, and I have been very active on GMFS and ls1gto.com as well. Please take a look at my trader rating on performancetucks.net and my profiles on GMFS and ls1gto if you have any concerns with the legitimacy of this thread. If you have any questions about anything, please feel free to ask in the thread or send me a PM. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/member.php?u=36118 http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/member.php?u=5481 http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/member.php?u=18562 That being said, here's the details of what I've got for sale. I am selling the hot side piping from my front mount turbo setup. This kit includes: -Crossover pipe that bolts to stock driver's side manifold ----contains an O2 sensor bung for the driver's side O2 and a flex joint under the transmission ----will fit 2wd or 4wd...there is plenty of clearance for a front driveshaft ----bolts and gasket for crossover-to-stock manifold are NOT included ----bolts and gasket for crossover-to-log manifold ARE included -Log manifold on passenger side ----This is the Cmotorsports manifold that Parish used to run on his truck ----has a T4 flange ----has a bung welded on for EGT probe just below the turbo flange ----turbo flange bolts and gasket are NOT included -Downpipe and mid pipe to bolt up to stock style cat-back ----contains 2 O2 sensor bungs (one just below the turbo outlet for stock passenger side O2 sensor, and one further back for a wideband) ----downpipe-to-turbo connection is a v-band (v-band clamp IS included) ----old crank case venturi bung just behind turbo outlet has been brazed shut ----mid-pipe contains a 3" cutout pipe with cap, as well as a flex joint ----bolts to connect downpipe to mid-pipe ARE included. ----bolts to connect mid-pipe to cat-back are NOT included -JGS 44 Magnum wastegate included ----v-band connection to manifold and downpipe ----v-band clamps ARE included ----light (4 psi) and heavy (8 psi) spring are also included. Heavy spring is currently installed. -Three 90* plug wires included ----these are for cylinders 2-4-6 on the passenger side. Cylinder 8 fits a stock plug wire with no problems. This would be a great setup for someone who is running moderate boost levels. I am switching to a thicker manifold because I have run into problems with this one cracking, as I run 12 psi on the street and 15 psi at the track. This would be great for someone looking to run up to about 7-8 psi. My roommate is working on fabbing the new setup for me, and I will have him prep and weld any cracks on this manifold before shipping it. Whoever buys this kit can rest assured that there will be no cracks in the manifold when you receive it. I am asking $1400 shipped for this setup. I prefer NOT to use paypal for a large purchase such as this, unless the buyer agrees to pay the fees. There should be no fabrication needed on the hot side. This is all bolt-on and ready to go, and as stated above will fit both 2wd and 4wd models, any GENIII fullsize truck. The A/C line coming from the dryer will need to be rotated slightly to clear. See pics below. The first set of pics here are the installed pics that I have to give you an idea of clearances and fit. These were taken after I first installed the kit. I have since removed the header wrap. Overview of the layout Here you can see the installed manifold. This is before we made the 90* spark plug wires. You can see why they were necessary :jest: Here's a good look at how the a/c dryer needs to be rotated to clear the downpipe. This also shows the old crankcase venturi fitting that was brazed closed. Look down a little lower and you can see the location of the wastegate. This shows the clearance around the front driveshaft and the driver's side O2 sensor bung. Here's how the crossover is routed underneath the transmission bellhousing. This is the area where the crossover and downpipe pass through. Three 90* plug wires JGS 44 Magnum wastegate Manifold and downpipe with turbo removed. You can see the EGT sensor bung just below the turbo flange. Wastegate mounting points Cutout angle 1 (my crappy plate will be replaced with a nice one) Cutout angle 2 Midpipe to catback connection Passenger side O2 bung Wideband bung

Sold!

Decided to keep the cam, no longer for sale.

Used for less than 20K miles - swapping to bigger engine and bigger cam. Asking $300obo plus shipping. DUR @ .004" 272*/280* DUR @ .050" 210*/218* LIFT .551/.551 OVERLAP 48* LSA 116* "ULTRA TORQUE" POWER RANGE 1500 TO 5800 PROVIDES VERY HIGH TORQUE GAINS GREAT FUEL ECONOMY & POWER LIGHT THUMPY IDLE http://www.vincihighperformance.com/camsha...ls%20truck.html I know I don't have any history on this forum - but I have been active on Performancetrucks.net and LS1tech for awhile, if anyone is concerned about my reputation. http://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?userid=36118

I have been running 60/40 water/meth. Head unit has 85-90K miles, installed the meth kit about 10K miles ago. I am wanting to go with 100% meth though. I talked with Kevin about the efficiency of coated vs uncoated and he said there would be a difference but it was negligable - the coating is there for durability, not efficiency. Clogging of the intercooler is my primary concern.

Just talked to Kevin at Magnuson, sounds like the only adverse effect will be that the coating could flake off and start to clog the intercooler. He said that GM ran uncoated rotors on the s/c V6 motors for years with no problems, and the EGR system on the vehicles put a small coating of carbon on the s/c rotors that protected the bare aluminum. Since I have EGR as well, I think I will just try to keep an eye out for nasty high IAT's....if i run into problems again I may just have the rotors stripped so I don't have to worry about it.

I sent my Radix back to Magnuson to have it overhauled while my engine is out, and they found that the rotor coating is starting to come off. He offered to put a new rotor pack in for somewhere around $500, but my concern is that if I continue to spray meth through the rotors the coating will just come off again anyway, so I had him put the old rotors back in and just do new bearings front and rear. What are the potential problems I will run into as the coating continues to erode? Noise only? Excessive wear? Metal shavings coming off the rotors? Worse? What if I were to just spray water through instead of meth? Is that just delaying the inevitable or will it stop the erosion? Is there a way to spray meth after the rotors instead of through them?

~10K miles, bought from a member on perfomancetrucks.net, changed plans. They need to be cleaned up a little bit, but otherwise look in good shape. I will take pics as soon as I get a chance. $100 plus shipping.