Sum 1
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Posts posted by Sum 1
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I had a Whipple and wished I'd bought an intercooled Radix.
IMO, for the money, I'd do a NA stroker over a blower. There's no replacement for displacement.
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She's gorgeous
IMO those wheels are a little too deep-dish for a muscle car but it's not about me and I'd still drool at it.
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What is "KR"? "KR"= Knock Retard; which will retard your timing and reduce power if sensors detect it.
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I have a friend who owns a Chevy dealership and an uncle who's a Chevy truck manager and each has told me independently that there will be a new, production Tahoe SS for 2008...
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I was lookin under the back of my truck and there is a 2" block back there...Couldn't I just take it out? See it in the U-bolts:
Yes, then get the Ubolts for a 2wd rcsb.
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No prob using both but many just run the crank pulley.
I'll use both.
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I just bought mine as well and I'm hoping to run high 14's with some stock 16 inch wheels. My brothers 2wd SS ran a 14.89 stock and we pretty much got the same trucks. So hopefully I will get to a track soon and find out.
You probly already can run high 14's with your 2wd. The drivetrain of a 4x4 eats up more power. With an airfilter, exhaust and tune you'll definately be in there. It'll all depend on the weather when you run.
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Ur V-Maxx is not the performance package truck right? Meaning u have a 5.3L right? Just curious...
No man, a VMax comes with the LQ9 (HO 6.0). Plus he's got 4.10's in it cuz it's a 4x4. That truck hauls ass right off the showroom floor
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sum 1 what kind of cam are you putting in? i am looking at getting the lingenfelter gt2-3...of course i know nothingt about cams so who knows. i am going to go the n/a route so i will stick with cai, exhaust, custom tune, and a decent cam for stock idle. any recommendations?
I can't suggest what you should get for a cam. There's so much involved in that descision that I threw my hands up and let my local race shop figure it out. Plus everybody's got an opinion, just ask them.
My .02 is figure out exactly what kind of power you want in the end, consider drivabilities/towing and then make informed choices as to how to get there. I'm looking to make as much torque as possible and still be completely daily driver/towing/hauling friendly. The goal is 400rwtq NA. But I'm also setting myself up to spray it next summer if I feel like it.
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15.2sumthing at 92ish
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Can't tell by the pix, is it PINK or PURPLE?
Seriously though, congrats and welcome aboard!
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Show:
305/55/17 Nitto TG's for winter on the stock rims
295/50/20 Hankook Ventus' on Chevy 20x8.5 for summer
GM accessory black grille shell (reversed chrome)
black bowtie
USSpeedo stainless gauge cluster w/tranny temp
Sylvania Silveratar fogs, lows and highs
4 way headlight mod
GM accessory front plate bracket dropped below the bumper (no pix, just did it)
GM accessory window vent cover thingys
Reflex spray in bed liner
GM accessory rubber bed matt
GM accessory upgrade (molded/fixed) rug matts
de-badged everything except the Vortec-Max on the doors
Go:
AFR 205 Stage2 heads
Comp cam
Comp pushrods
8.1 injectors
160 t-stat
ASP underdrive pulleys
Pacesetter coated long tube headers
True duals 3" stainless w/stock cats and 6x30 round Magnaflows to chrome turn downs hidden behind bumper
custom tuned (road and dyno)
spare tire delete
modded stock air box + KN drop in filter
and I still need a sway bar kit
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Autotrac= enables front drive as the rear wheels lose traction
4 HI= enables full lock of front and rear (produces crow-hopping and not recommended for dry pavement use) and can be used at highway speeds
4 Lo+ enables full lock of front and rear designed for extra low end torque (getting unstuck, launching a boat, etc) NEVER DRIVE AROUND IN 4 LO
As for the drags, when I've tried using 4HI from the line I consistanly run .3-.5 seconds slower. That's the main reason I bought the V-Max is the transfer case. I only use 4WD when I really need it. otherwise it's rear-only.
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Buddy of mine is running an STS at 22# and has had trouble launching it. Needed to go up to a 4000 stall in order to build boost. With a 2800 it was only spooling to 7-11# before taking off.
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IMHO it's always best to start with a baseline dyno pull and track run while it's stock and continue to do that throughout your mods. It's the only way to actually prove gains. The whole "SOTP meter" is
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It's not about Brian's tuning. Personally, I wouldn't buy anyone's mailorder tuning but I don't have to either (got the fastest [Mustang] bracket racing speedshop in the country down the street). But the problem as I'm seeing based on the posted dyno sheet is the dyno-operator and nothing else and you weren't even present when it was run.
They didn't correct the test that you were handed (posted) as far as I can see. The graph's distort terribly @5k and in my experience it's attributed to tire vibration. The knock sensors are extremely sensitive and will pick up on all this high speed, high RPM vibration and do their job to adjust timing. Simple as that.
PCM4Less obviously raised your speed limiter and you put down a respectable RWHP# in 3rd gear. Be happy about it.
ps. I have 120mph rated tires and if they aren't inflated exactly, they shake too.
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to run or not to run is the ?
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ok been wanting to run the truck one day but at same time idont untill i get a real tune in there. i have an idea on what i should run the way it sits but i would rather run knowing everything is up to par and im running the best i can but at same time if i run now and then get a real tune i can see how much of a difference a real tune helps out
so what would you do?
Dude, you drunk or something? Never seen you post like this.
Sober up and get out there and run it, dumbazz
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Sounds right on to me.
Your graphs are really rough, like your tires were prolly bouncing on the dyno at high speed and that can cause the KR.
Been in that same situation many times. It could be especially bad if you're running the stock rubber over 100mph; which you were.
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Anyone planning on going to the new england summer nationals in worcester mass jun 29 - jul 2nd ???? giant car show and burnouts it takes over the whole city woul like to get something together hope to see ya there
4 sure. It's the best carshow in the NorthEast.
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Zippy- SlowHawk (Don from Dez Racing) who's doing all my work recommended a 214/220-560/560-112 for it. He also mentioned something about an "XER" or "XCR" for a quicker lift. Cams make me crazy so I just let him do what he thinks is right based on my goals... there's so many options I'd never be able to choose anyway.
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Yep, basically a stage II.
Just got my injectors on Ebay, too
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Were you running this on a 6.0? If so, with what other mods?
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Do you have dyno results from before and after the swap?
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Thanks for the props
These are the 205s, 66cc.
Bumping up compression to @ 10.7. Aiming for big torque, N/A results; 400rwtq and maybe 370rwhp in my year-round DD. Didn't want to go up to the 225's cuz I'm not going too crazy with this motor and don't need that much flow. Plus, these will still allow for a safe 100 wet shot later if necessary.
AFR 205 LINK.
AFR 225 LINK
Anyone have Magnaflow??
in General SS
Posted
I run LT's -> cats -> 3" X -> 3" I/O 6x30 rounds -> turn downs behind the bumper.
No resonance and completely quiet cruising but it sounds very deep at idle and when getting on it. The round Magnaflows have direct chamber through them so the flow's unrestricted at high RPM. This is the best exhaust system I've ever had out of a dozen V8's/muscle cars.