crawlinss

definitely interested. more info? how old, whered you get it, etc? thankx!

very helpful for sure, thank you!! does the trailer affect gvwr of the tow vehicle? lets say my truck weighs 5000lbs, and the gvwr is 6400, in the truck are two people @200lbs each and 100lbs of gear, does that mean i can only carry 900lbs in the bed, or does that mean i can only carry/pull 900lbs of cargo? its the trailer part thats getting me, i dont mind making the silvy work hard, but i dont want to abuse it.

im just a tad confused here, and i shouldnt be, i work on trucks/trailers for a living.... well in a way. im looking for a bigger trailer to carry my bike to/from the track. im planning on an air leveling kit in the rear regardless, but i have questions about how much i can tow, how much i can haul, payload, etc. 1- the sticker inside my door says gvwr 6400 lbs. what is that number? it also says GAWR (Front) 3650 and GAWR RR 3600. what are those numbers? 2-define payload...its confusing me. what should an 03 ss weigh stock? with upgraded air supension and trailer brakes and/or weight distributing hitch (if i need that w/ air ride, or would it be redundant?) how much can i safely haul/carry. maximum im thinking about would be an 8x20 enclosed, with 3-4 crotch rockets, gear for 4 guys, chairs, small grill, small tent, small generator, stuff like that. is it too much for old girl? any help appreciated.

i posted in another thread, ive got the standard evap solenoid codes, as well as the following. p0449 p0455 p1516 p1518 p2108 p0455 (in there twice) i dont even know what a toc module is!!!!!! any help?

well, im a threadjacker. ive been driving around with the standard EVAP codes and just clearing them before emissions time, and its worked thus far. i scanned it today for craps and laughs, and ive got a BUNCH of other codes that i didnt even know about. guess my ignorance paid off. they are: p0449, p0445, p1516, p1518, p2105, p0455. can somebody point me in the right direction? maybe someone experienced can get me going the right way. im pretty set on changing the vent solenoid, that code has been on since i bought it like 40k ago., the other ones are news to me!!!

i had heard of crossover tubes or something being common, but sounds like thats the culprit most likely, ive got like 97000 on it, and it runs like a top, but its getting worse. in 2 weeks its going to get new calipers (powdercoated red) all four corners new front pads/rotors new upper/lower balljoints new rod ends if it needs them r and r front diff fluid, rear diff fluid, t-case fluid, oil/filter change full interior detail and possibly a headliner (soda exploded last winter it didnt come out all the way) full wetsand and buff repair broken 'brake cooler' duct (rock broke the mounting tab) investigate seeping p/s lines (isnt even a tiny bit low and ive never added any, pump doesnt whine, yet i see fluid) i need to repaint the tailgate as my trailer nicked it pretty good and re-repaint the rear bumper cover (same trailer incident). i love this truck.

So my ss has had a small coolant leak for quite awhile now. (No more than a quart every 2-3 mos). Its dripping down the front of the engine and down the front of the front diff. Its time to repair it. W/o tearing into the front of the engine can anyone point out common failures on this engine? Any help appreciated.

i'd like a picture of the damage to the bumper cover, send to [email protected].

ive got one with very minor pitting on the chrome inside lip (where it goes from chrome to the inside of the wheel) and minor surface corrosion to the inside of the wheel that can be wire-wheeled off. $100 plus shipping, email [email protected] if you need pix. or if you send me your peeling one we could do it for $50 shipped.

man you guys are helpful!!! as soon as this snow and shit is out of here, ill be ordering it up!

whats up guys.. so i originally wanted to go to a 2500 silvo this year, but i love the truck, and i'd rather keep it. i am upgrading to a 7.5x 18 or so enclosed trailer this spring to haul 2-3 bikes/gear for track weekends, and my ss sags in the back with 500lbs in the bed. i want to use airlift springs to keep it level only while towing, has anyone done this? can anyone recommend any good vendors?

ok, well i really wish i had taken pix for this, but i was so f'ing frustrated doing this while my shoulder is all messed up and having problems with it i forgot!! decided to do some maint. on the truck today, front/rear diff fluids, x-fer case, trans filter/fluid. all went as well as could be expected, until i got to the transmission. drained the pan, took out the pan bolts and oh me oh my, the pain in the ass (and shoulder...and back...) began. my manual said nothing about clearance issues, and the manual i got on here wont run on my computer so heres what i did. 1- drain fluid. 2- while the fluid is draining, disconnect the shift cable from the arm on the trans. it pops off easily. then pry the 2 plastic tangs on the shifter cable together to allow the cable to seperate from the bracket. 3- (with stock exhaust, or shorties with stock catted pipe. ive got the magnaflow system that dumps in front of the RR tire fwiw) unbolt your collectors from your exhaust header/manifold. 4- unbolt exhaust hangar (should be 1 15mm headed bolt) 5-remove all bolts, but leave two (across the pan from each other) loose to let the pan hang. 6- at this point while its not a mess under there, figure out HOW youre going to move the pan to get it out. if i remember it was a slight turn of the pan and then out the front. a friend to keep pressure on the shift bracket towards the front d/s would be helpful. pull the stock x pipe slightly down and away, and that should give you clearance to move the pan. 7- r + r filter. make sure to be careful removing the factory seal, and install the new one carefully. i found it helpful to set it in lightly, and use the female side of a 1/2 drive extension to install it as my bearing/race driver was locked up at work. install filter, clean pan, reinstall pan with new gasket. 8-reassembly is the opposite of removal. IN RETROSPECT...... this was some shadetree sh*t right here. i wish i had left the transfer case empty so i could have pulled the front d/s without losing fluid (no auto trac II available on sundays, and i had already put it in). that would have allowed easier access to the stubborn torx bolts holding the shift bracket on, most likely making exhaust dropping unnecessary. was quite a pain for a simple filter r + r. on top of things my shoulder is way worse than it was this morning, and i have to get it back on stands to do the fuel filter i forgot to change, and put back the 15mm bolt for the exhaust hanger that my friend forgot to tell me he never put back in.....until i had already taken the truck out. and fix the minor exhaust leak. what a way to spend a rainy sunday.

as stated. will pay for shipping, im in chicago 60655.. i only NEED one but ill buy a pair, or if your price is super reasonable (read: cheap!!!!) ill buy the set.

i want one!!!!!!!!!!! email [email protected] and lets get the ball rolling!!!!

email me at [email protected]..... shipping just wheels is not as big a pain as you might think. if youre willing to ship, email me with your best price plus ups shipping and we can go from there.

bump...............

movin on up......

so my neighbor put up this POS fence that crowds my driveway, and as if i wasnt having a bad enough night, i cracked my glass on the drivers side. does anyone have glass or a whole mirror assy, or know where i could get one reasonably priced??? thanx guyssssss

ok, so ive got the bose system, and need to replace the speakers. originally i was going to swap the bose amp and speakers so i could use 4 ohm speakers, but after seeing the huge wiring bundle in/out of the amp, i got a little scared with the class II data and shit.... so i go onto crutchfields website, enter all my info, and it says theres a bunch of speakers i can use, but i believe the bose speakers to be 2 ohm's. i guess in short im asking if anyone has used aftermarket speakers with the stock bose amps??

well i do feel kind of bad even when i had stock bulbs, seem to catch everybody no matter what. i wonder if they make the 4157 in amber? i changed my drl's to amber i think it looks badass.

like the title says, i need a passenger door cladding (if its black and in good shape so much the better) and i am definitely in the market for a big brake kit from any of the reputable vendors. let me know!!!!!

ive never had a vehicle give me so many problems with lights...maybe its the china garbage HID lookalike bulbs ive bought, but i used the same brand on 4 other vehicles with no problems. i used to run through drl bulbs like no other, but i switched those to amber and theyve been good for awhile. now i got 2 days out of my drivers side 9006 bulb.... ebay hid kit here i come!!!

ill take the rear bumper for the right price....location?

meet me within $350 dollars worth of gas of chicago (or 350 mi. lol) and well swap it in some hooters parking lot, mines black, great shape except one very minor dent by the gas filler that paintless dent removal could get out no problem.

can tell you 3700 wont do it