crawlinss

lets make something happen, seriously very few offers will offend me. i could do alright recycling these damn things lol

heres the deal, ive got 2 alloy 20"s in good shape, probably a 6-7 out of 10. ive got a 3rd alloy 20" in good cosmetic shape, but with a very slight bend in the inner lip. did not shake, or lose any air, didnt even notice it was bent until i switched to the chrome wheels. ive got a 4th alloy wheel with a very serious crack on the inner lip. no material missing, maybe its fixeable, maybe its not. all come with center caps, email [email protected] with WHEEL PIX and ill send you the best pix ive got. the first offer that isnt a total lowball offer takes these things, i need them gone. pickup preferred but will ship for $200 for the set in the lower 48... wheels located southside of chicago. john 773-206-1968

i just got the subthump shallow dual 10" box, installed it, its very very nice, with the exception of the way the carpet is stapled at the bottom.... however, no one will ever see it unless youre showing off your speakers, but for what you pay for the box its a definite good buy

i think that might be part of my problem ive got something wired wrong. im pretty familiar with ohms law, however i really never deal with the wattage part of the equation, at least in an audio sense. i dont understand how you say 1 ohm of resistance is twice as much as 4?? if it takes one amp to push one ohm of resistance per ohms law, how could one ohm be twice as much as four? im not being a dick, im just seriously confused with this system, ive never had this much trouble. the way you say to have the subs wired is how?? really quick heres what ive got and how its wired, ive got a 4 channel amp. ive got it set up so its 2 channels bridged, positive on channel one negative on channel two, positive on three, negative on four....thats set up correctly for bridged out put, right? either that or it could be +1 -3 +2 -4, im not sure but as far as the amp is concerned i have it set up per their instructions. now on the subs, ive got a set of +/- on either side of the sub, with a jumper across from one positive to the other negative, then out of the amp ive got a positive to the remaining positive, and a negative to the remaining negative. is this correct? this is confusing the shit out of me, i could put up pix if that might help. ALSO..........what is the benefit of dvc??? ALSO......... should i stuff my box?? LOL that sounds diirrrrty

well i dont know what you mean by everything "in phase", but i do know i have the polarity correct. i did not use harness, they are soldered/shrink wrapped the way ive always done installs, which IMO is better than plugs. anyway, i ohmed them out and yes, the bose are 2 ohm the infinitys are 4 ohms, which explains a lot. im probably going to put the stock speaker back in there as the earthquake speakers i have are 4 ohm as well. heres another situation im having... so i got my new subthump box (which for the price is very nice), i got the shallow one with the amp rack, which is essentially 2 truck boxes with a board attaching them, but contoured to the floor etc etc. ive got a volfenhag 7170 amp with 2 sets of rca's in, so i ran 2 sets of rca's from the pac24 unit (stock head unit BTW), one into the "front" one into the "rear" and started tuning. ive got 2 big ass jl audio 10"s with dual voice coils, theyre older but in very good conditon. anyway, so that being said, i started tuning and i cant get them to sound good. i think part of the problem is that the amp gives me between 4-8 ohms tolerance for subs, and when i have it wired for dual voice coils that puts me at like 12 ohms. so i disconnected the one side and just wired it pos/neg, which should put the sub at 6 ohms, and noticed no change in sound. i cant get any real bottom end out of this system, it sounds SORT of good, but not how it should, this amp is 400x2 bridged....that should be more than plenty to shake my truck apart but its got NO low end. help?

im on the southside....chrome ss wheels with good tires mounted/dynamic balanced with tape weights. do you have pix of the rims on the truck?

if that dude flakes out, call me ill paypal you 100 plus shipping. 773-206-1968 john

ive got two that are like 8/10 condition (typical for 50k truck) no curb rash to speak of, and a third that cosmetically is very very nice but has a VERY slight bend on the inner lip. no air leak, no crack. i want em gone....make an offer that wont make me throw my computer moniter out the window and were in business.

im 90 percent certain this is something you dont want to attempt yourself....but maybe youll get lucky. ive got a head unit from a monte carlo that is very very similar, it was no good when we pulled it, ill see if i can get it open easily and let you know the results if it helps

i just put one infinity reference speaker in the door in place of the bose speaker, then i got rained out. so im messing around going left to right front to back, and i notice that thru the infinity speaker the sound quality is horrible....like when you get a crappy download of a song, cymbals sound like breaking glass and so forth....what ohm output comes through the bose amp, does anyone know??? why would this happen? ive been out of the custom audio loop for about 3 years which in this game is a lifetime....any help?

i literally just got done putting in the pac24 adaptor, and trying to find a remote out wire is sort of tricky with this class II data shit. if youre testing with a meter, the radio will have to be plugged in to get a real reading fyi. also, unless youre going to use speaker level inputs (no rca cables) there is no other way that i know of to hook subs to the stock bose. im a little unhappy with the sub output, but even with the kenwood i had in for a few days, i didnt like it, i think my subs and amp are different ohms, im going to have to check it out in a few minutes.

just noted youre from rochelle, i come out there for work every now and again.....youve got some good roads out there by the global III railyard

that is bad as hell.....all said and done, what did that cost??? did you make/buy the adapter for the 6 disc or were you able to buy one?

whats up. so i changed my mind, im putting the bose 6 disc back in as soon as the pac24 gets here. my question is this. who on here has the best sounding system utilizing the stock head unit, and what subs/amp combo are you using?

97 lt1 ws6 t/a, my friend ryan has one....i own him through 1st and most of 2nd...after that he pulls away hard. my only run at a lightning was when i was spraying 100 through the ss... i didnt spray off the line because i like my driveline parts where they are thank you., however, i got maybe 100 feet out and hit it, and pulled out hard. he started reeling me in at right around 80 as well.

whats up.... as always ive changed my mind as far as my plans at my own expense. im ordering the pac24 deal, i want my 6 disc and factory appearance back.....so ive got for sale the following a kenwood cd player used for about 4-5 hours. faceplate adaptor from 1.5 din to single din. the adaptor to keep your steering wheel controls working (110 bucks)......the thing works but is a bastard to program. pretty cool once its hooked up though. the adaptor to keep your chime module and all that stuff working. so, basically, you can have a $300 head unit, a $110 dollar swc adaptor, and a $100 onstar/chime module adaptor for the low low price of..... $450 shipped to your door. keep in mind this stuff is brand new, installed, tested, and removed. ill leave all the wires hooked up and so forth. pm/email me if interested. if youre interested and want to get the deal done this week i might even knock a few more bucks off the price for saving me the headache of trying to return this stuff from 3 different vendors (crutchfield, music in motion, bestbuy) all instructions, most packaging included (i threw out the little bags) pm or email [email protected]

whats up.... as always ive changed my mind as far as my plans at my own expense. im ordering the pac24 deal, i want my 6 disc and factory appearance back.....so ive got for sale the following a kenwood cd player used for about 4-5 hours. faceplate adaptor from 1.5 din to single din. the adaptor to keep your steering wheel controls working (110 bucks)......the thing works but is a bastard to program. pretty cool once its hooked up though. the adaptor to keep your chime module and all that stuff working. so, basically, you can have a $300 head unit, a $110 dollar swc adaptor, and a $100 onstar/chime module adaptor for the low low price of..... $450 shipped to your door. keep in mind this stuff is brand new, installed, tested, and removed. ill leave all the wires hooked up and so forth. pm/email me if interested. if youre interested and want to get the deal done this week i might even knock a few more bucks off the price for saving me the headache of trying to return this stuff from 3 different vendors OR POSSIBLE/PARTIAL TRADES FOR: USED/NEW HEADERS NX MAF NITROUS KIT NEW/NEWER MSD COIL PACKS UNDERSEAT SUBWOOFER BOX (SUCH AS SUBTHUMP.COM UNIT) SUPERCHARGER? (crutchfield, music in motion, bestbuy) all instructions, most packaging included (i threw out the little bags) pm or email [email protected]

so after shipping the wheel for repair, they wont do it. i'd sell the 3 good ones cheap if you want to contact keystone or another aftermarket manufacturer for the 4th one....ill give you all 4 if you want. would make a cool table or something.

how cheap is cheap??? ive got one, about 8/10 on condition, with center cap, shipping would probably run about $45. email me [email protected].

whats up chitowner.... me = ssinister on chitown. i'd be willing to take the headers off your hands, but not without some ctr.com famous lowballing!!! whats your bottom dollar on the headers?

if youve got pix send them to [email protected] title them something header or ss related please!

i'd be willing to $500, meet in indiana or just over michigan border on 94. i hate to lowball you, but my trans is still in good shape....for how long, who knows. pm me if youre interested.

i have the same stupid intermittent code.... i think im going to replace the gas cap and go from there. since a cap is cheap i dont really mind starting by throwing parts at it.

im so scared to say it, but i thought about one of the police type ram bars on the front, (matching in black) for about 2 seconds, until i realized i'd have to cut the bumper... my boss has 4x4 04 silverado with a grill guard and it looks perfectly at home on that truck, but after seeing a picture of something similar on an ss, i dont think it would look so hot.