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Need some vehicle finish help


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My truck has been down since just after Hurricane Ivan and I have not washed it the entire time. I know, I should be ashamed. :happysad: I really am. It's easy to leave it alone when it's not running, trust me. Anyway, after seeing how good the wife's new '05 mustang looked after we detailed it this weekend, it gave me the necesary fuel to finally get my truck back up to par.

 

So, since it was cloudy and predicted to be 75 degrees this morning, I decided to get out and wash it to start with. I washed with Zaino wash. After I finished I decided to do the whole Zaino process from start to finish. I re-washed with Dawn, clay bar'd it, then washed again with Zaino wash and dried it. I'm pretty much all set to polish with Z-2/5.

 

After walking around and looking at the truck closely I noticed I had collected a lot of water spots on the body panels all the way around. Doesn't appear to be on the body, just the plastic panels. This after a heavy scrubbing from clay bar even. They are difficult to see with as bright as the blue is with the metallic, but if you get the light just right, they are there. I also have numerous bug guts spots that looked as if they have marred the paint. Comes from letting it bake for X number of months after driving 400 miles to get away from a storm. Anyone ever been to FL knows we are well known for our bugs down here. The bug stuff is off the truck, this is what it has done to the paint.

 

My question is this, what is the best for removing water spots and the bug blemishes? I know the bug things may end up staying. To this point I have used Meguire's scratch-x and it appears to be doing a decent job on both. But, if there is something better out there and easily attainable, I'll cover up the truck and go get some.

 

Aside from all that, the truck looks great after what it looked like. The pollen started up about 2 weeks ago. That comes when it starts getting warm, Zippy. :P Just in case you forgot.

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Ben:

 

One thing owning my detailing business taught me was there are waterspots and then there are WATERSPOTS :banghead:

 

I had a customer that left his 87 camaro parked in front of his house for over 4 months. Everyday the sprinklers would hit it and then the sun would bake the paint all day... everyday... the paint was a complete mess.

 

I tried attacking it w/ claybar and all that did was lessen the visibility of the spots, but it couldn't get rid of them entirely. When water spots get to that point the only way to get rid of them is to have them professionally buffed out because they have acutally "etched" the clearcoat. A high speed buffer, polishing compound, and an experienced detailer should get them out.

 

I would recommend stripping the wax again w/ dishsoap and taking the truck to a professional detailer who is experienced w/ highspeed buffers. :thumbs:

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Dylan, that's kind of what I was thinking. I know what you mean about WATERSPOTS. Wellwater is a son-of-a-b..... :devil:

 

On the passenger side of my truck is where my sprinkler system has hit my truck to the point I'm not surprised that things aren't growing out it. The main reason it doesn't come on until I am at work. You should see what that hard-ass water does to polished wheels. :banghead: Now do that for 2-3 months, 5 days a week. Takes about an hour a wheel to get off.

 

I was thinking of buying a high-speed buffer. Any recommendations? I have some experience with one that my buddy had.

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Ben,

 

If those were love bugs on your truck, there is probably not a way to remove the blemishes other than wet sanding and respraying another coat of clear. If left on there, it only takes a few hours for the acid in love bugs' bodies to eat through clearcoat. (This was told to me by the body shop manager and the detail dept. manager, back when I worked for a Chevy dealer. I remember their policy was, if a car salesman test drove a car and got love bugs on it, they were supposed to take it straight to the detail dept. for a wash immediately afterwards.)

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Use chemistry and as little scrubbing as possible if you can help it. I know what you mean about mineral spots. Here in N. TX we have a lot of limestone, so when you drive in the wet you always have your vehicle coated in calcium... What worked teriffic for me was cheap distilled white vinegar - I dipped a terry washcloth in vinegar and ragged over a panel, let sit for 60-90 secs, then rag again, and finally wash the acid off with Dawn (alkaline, neutralizes any acid left behind). The vinegar *should* re-dissolve the mineral deposits and lift them off. Don't let the vinegar dry at all, and I do not know how long the clearcoat will tolerate the weak acid so I would try 60-90 secs per application and see how it goes.

 

Bugs factoid: shellac (old-fashioned floor finish) is made from bugs. When you have fresh bug splatter all over your paint, it is the same as applying old-fashioned shellac out of the can onto your paint; and it will react with the clearcoat and bond. You have to get that stuff off right away.

 

Browse through Autopia How-To Car Care Library for good tips on using the Porter Cable variable speed unit.

 

Mr. P. :)

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Ben,

 

I would try somthing like what I have, which is a Makita 9227C variable speed buffer, combined with a cutting compound like a 3M 05936, then follow that with a 05933 to remove the cutting marks, then chase that with the 05996 glaze. It should come out like new. I keep the buffer in between 1500 to 2000 rpm just to insure the paint doesn't burn. After you glaze it though put a couple coats of wax for the protection. I hope this helps :thumbs:

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Thanks guys, for the responses. :thumbs: I ended up going over the spotted areas mutiple times with scratch-X. That did a pretty good job. For now, I'm happy with it, but need to get a buffer 6-8 months from now. Most can't be seen.

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Ben,

 

I would try somthing like what I have, which is a Makita 9227C variable speed buffer, combined with a cutting compound like a 3M 05936, then follow that with a 05933 to remove the cutting marks, then chase that with the 05996 glaze. It should come out like new. I keep the buffer in between 1500 to 2000 rpm just to insure the paint doesn't burn. After you glaze it though put a couple coats of wax for the protection. I hope this helps  :thumbs:

 

:withstupid:

 

Same buffer I use... :thumbs:

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damn what kind of crazy ass bugs do you guys have in fl?  :dunno:

I heard that someone imported them a long time ago because they thought they would eat the mosquitoes, but that never happened (anyone from FL, correct me if I'm wrong...) They are kind of like gnats, but a little bigger... a couple of times a year, the air is thick with 'em. They don't do anything other than get splattered all over cars, and in the teeth of motorcycle riders. :P

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I think it actually reached 80, but who's counting. :dunno::jester:

 

It is a chilly 64 outside right now, however. burrrrrr!

 

64!!!! I was happy working outside today because it was 39 in DeKalb, IL. I haven't seen an 80* day in FOREVER. Because were on the topic of car care, I was wondering... what do you guys use to clean chrome rims? I've tried Never-Dull and it's ok, but it takes a LONG time. I've also used Maguires hot rims and that does a pretty good job in about half the time Never Dull takes. I just wondered if there was something out there that I didn't know about that you guys loved.

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