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What is wrong? Dissapointing Day at the Track


6.0ss

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so I am doing it right...,, stabing the gas when the light hits yellow from Idle.. that is great!!!!... the temp was 15 degrees different, but the humidity level was terrible and muggy when i ran the last run.

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Zip,  I also need your shift kit put in... the trans go is a hunk of crap.. Very hard shifts during normal driving and soft shifts under power!!!! :banghead:

Better scratch the billet servos if you don't want hard shifts. My Transgo shifts almost normal when under a "normal" throttle. The only time it shifts hard is under WOT. Sounds like you went max on everything. There is some adjustablility in the kit. If you went for the most, and it sounds like you did, then you're probably getting what you installed for. Just a guess. I know I opted not to do a few things for sake of a more firm than hard shift. Got to keep the wife happy.

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when you come up here we can take care of most of them issue's first hand. on the friday we go to the track if you tag along we'll work on the tuning and you can try all ways to launch it.

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IT shifts hard under normal driving but very softens up progressivly with how much throttle I have into it.

 

I don't have Servos but do have the metal accumulator piston, (when the piston was installed was when the mild manered driving when to crap)

 

What I really want is 2 trans programs.. one soft and fluffy and tow haul mode to be as hard as it can get! :D

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If I run a car that likes to spin, I take the revs up on the convertor, and when I launch I don't "toe-in" the pedal, I bring the revs up on the convertor until I launch, and "roll on" from the higher rpm until the pedal is down. GRADUALLY, but as quick as the chassis will take it.

It makes a fairly big difference...?

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you'll find that .2 second gap between idle and flash stall the vehicle hasn't moved yet. if you're testing both the 60' times should be better going off idle. if you're running a cam their may be some gain in bringing the revs up a bit to up the velocity in the intake/blower. g-tech and efi live will always show better numbers using the load it method. the track though which starts the clock when the front tire rolls past the beams will show different times. before that front tire has even rolled far enough to break the beams your truck should have revved to the point of flash stall and spinning if it does.

 

It seems to me that "dropping the pedal" of a convertor at it's stall speed will usually result in the tires spinning or the chassis unloading, wheel hop etc...

 

It also seems to me that going "off idle" will either pull the engine down, as it isn't in it's power range, or if it comes up on convertor flash it will "shock" the chassis. The chassis isn't ready for the power hit?

 

Without really good traction with a good leaving vehicle it's tough to call without reading a slip.

 

If "trial and error" are used at the track, I would at least try the technique of pulling up on the convertor, and rolling on after the green? Try it on the street, the traction is different, but the result will be more or less the same?

 

I'm not used to a 4 wheel drive launch, but rear wheel drives sure like it....

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