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Flashing Check Engine Light


RacerJJ

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i swapped pcm's but kept the same tune and that solver my prolblem with the ses light. i dont know how you can stand having that thing on all the time.I have mine on for 10 minutes and i feel like i have to park it and drive at as least possible until i get it fixed. I guess its just one my pet peeves, but what if something actully did go wrong that would normally set this code.You wouldnt know it until you felt it running funny or you broke something.That is just my opinion, i could be wrong.

 

This is solid logic, especially on modded trucks. Im totally the same way so :withstupid:

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i swapped pcm's but kept the same tune and that solver my prolblem with the ses light. i dont know how you can stand having that thing on all the time.I have mine on for 10 minutes and i feel like i have to park it and drive at as least possible until i get it fixed. I guess its just one my pet peeves, but what if something actully did go wrong that would normally set this code.You wouldnt know it until you felt it running funny or you broke something.That is just my opinion, i could be wrong.

 

This is solid logic, especially on modded trucks. Im totally the same way so :withstupid:

I guess us SSers all think alike! I put the other pcm in and no lights as of yet (knock on wood). The truck still runs great. You guys are both right...I hate that damn engine light being on, however, the truck ran very well whether it was on or not. I am also very superstitious and I have been doing very well in my racing with that pcm so I really didn't want to change it just for a false code. I guess I just dealt with it for so long because I am usually pretty good at knowing when something is wrong based on feel and sound so I didn't really worry about it. In any case, the light is off for now and I hope it stays off. Thanks for all the help and I hope this pcm works out. :thumbs:

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A different cam can cause the misfire code to pop, and yes it is mostly false. That is why the threshold for the hit counts of the fault are usually upped by tuners if they know you have a cam. Even without upping the threshold for the fault, it should still go away from time to time and not stay steady on. This is at least how mine acted until I got the threshold at the right level.

 

This would not cause a blinking SES. The best thing to do in the future is to pull over and check things vs just keep driving hoping it will go away.

 

Since I know all you modified guys have logging software, you can narrow it down to a bad plug/wire/coil, if you set up to monitor mifires by the cylinder. If you don't have it, then I would remove all my plugs and make sure none of them are cracked, wires not on good, or the coil end of the wire. Remember, you should feel one click for the plug and two for the coil.

 

FWIW, I have never had to do a crank re-learn.

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Have any of you guys with the check engine light on go into a reduced power mode? This has happened to me twice. My engine temp was good and everything was in check. Just curious because I just pull to the side of the road and shut the truck off, wait a couple seconds then I'm off again.

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Have any of you guys with the check engine light on go into a reduced power mode?  This has happened to me twice.  My engine temp was good and everything was in check.  Just curious because I just pull to the side of the road and shut the truck off, wait a couple seconds then I'm off again.

\

 

Boosted?

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A different cam can cause the misfire code to pop, and yes it is mostly false.  That is why the threshold for the hit counts of the fault are usually upped by tuners if they know you have a cam.  Even without upping the threshold for the fault, it should still go away from time to time and not stay steady on.  This is at least how mine acted until I got the threshold at the right level.

 

This would not cause a blinking SES.  The best thing to do in the future is to pull over and check things vs just keep driving hoping it will go away. 

 

Since I know all you modified guys have logging software, you can narrow it down to a bad plug/wire/coil, if you set up to monitor mifires by the cylinder.  If you don't have it, then I would remove all my plugs and make sure none of them are cracked, wires not on good, or the coil end of the wire.  Remember, you should feel one click for the plug and two for the coil.

 

FWIW, I have never had to do a crank re-learn.

 

 

if you re-use your stock pcm you shouldn't have to do the re-learn. if you replace the pcm you should do a re-learn every time.

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Have any of you guys with the check engine light on go into a reduced power mode?  This has happened to me twice.  My engine temp was good and everything was in check.  Just curious because I just pull to the side of the road and shut the truck off, wait a couple seconds then I'm off again.

\

 

Boosted?

 

 

Yea, it just started happening when i put a cam in. There were no problem's before with just the s/c set up which i ran for 3,000 miles. it has been retuned for everything with the stock PCM unit.

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what code are you getting?

 

 

last night the check engine light wasn't on when i started it up and didn't turn on the rest fo the night, but i did run a check and the their were 2 errors:

 

P0120 = acc pedal circuit error

P2135 = i don't know what this one is, my book doesn't go up that high # wise.

 

Next time the engine light is on i'll run another check and get the the other code.

 

Any suggestions for these 2? Thanks!

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  • 10 months later...
what code are you getting?

 

 

last night the check engine light wasn't on when i started it up and didn't turn on the rest fo the night, but i did run a check and the their were 2 errors:

 

P0120 = acc pedal circuit error

P2135 = i don't know what this one is, my book doesn't go up that high # wise.

 

Next time the engine light is on i'll run another check and get the the other code.

 

Any suggestions for these 2? Thanks!

 

 

I know this is a old thread , but what was the fix. My buddies escalade is setting the same codes.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys I went to auto zone to find out what was setting off my check engine light and it turns out it's the 0/2 sensor. They say theres two of them at 95.00 a whack. He did reset the code but it soon came back on. Could a bad sensor cause any harm to my motor? I'm wondering if I can wait a little while or should I fix it right away? Thanks for any advice.

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