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:withstupid:

 

All the cams I have had and installed needed time to "learn" my current cam took 200 miles to settle down to "driveable" standards. Congratulations you are now driving a modified vehicle and you now get to learn all its wierd quarks that come along with modding. But the smile it will put on your face as you put that sports car to shame will make it all worth while I promise :devil::driving:

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One injector was not pluged in.The cam works awsome now.I took it down the road at 130mph,when I slowed down I heard a clunk clunk.I got out to see what it was.My crank pulley bolt was on the ground :eek: I think I will use some lock tight. :devil: Next on my list is a torque converter I think I lost some take off but it pulls hard

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use that bolt torque down the crank pulley to 250lbfts. then remove it and toss it away. then get new one and torque it to 37lbft and then go i think 40*

 

 

new GM bolts already have loctite on them

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Not 40 degrees, but 140 degrees.

 

Go back to that LS1howto article and follow the procedures to a tee. If you do not, it will happen again. Loctite will not hold it in if you do not stretch the bolt properly.

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Not 40 degrees, but 140 degrees.

 

Go back to that LS1howto article and follow the procedures to a tee.  If you do not, it will happen again.  Loctite will not hold it in if you do not stretch the bolt properly.

thanks, i knew i was close, was missing one number lol

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Not 40 degrees, but 140 degrees.

 

Go back to that LS1howto article and follow the procedures to a tee.  If you do not, it will happen again.  Loctite will not hold it in if you do not stretch the bolt properly.

On my buddies truck we re-used his crank pulley three times with red loc tite put 6000 miles on it with no problems it works. Is it the best way probably not but it gets the job done :smash:

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I know they are one time use and they are torque to yield. The crank bolt Im running in my truck has loc tite on it and was used on my 5.3 and now on my 418 for a total of about 5000 miles so far. If you arent FI I really dont see any reason to buy a new one but thats just me. Ill probably use a new one when I rebuild my motor but until then my loc tite bolt will work.

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I know they are one time use and they are torque to yield.  The crank bolt Im running in my truck has loc tite on it and was used on my 5.3 and now on my 418 for a total of about 5000 miles so far.  If you arent FI I really dont see any reason to buy a new one but thats just me.  Ill probably use a new one when I rebuild my motor but until then my loc tite bolt will work.

for 3 bucks or whatever it costs. its cheap insurance. and dont you have issues with your 418?

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I know they are one time use and they are torque to yield.  The crank bolt Im running in my truck has loc tite on it and was used on my 5.3 and now on my 418 for a total of about 5000 miles so far.  If you arent FI I really dont see any reason to buy a new one but thats just me.  Ill probably use a new one when I rebuild my motor but until then my loc tite bolt will work.

for 3 bucks or whatever it costs. its cheap insurance. and dont you have issues with your 418?

NOothing even closely related to a crank pulley bolt. Got a set of factory flawed rings from JE broke one jsut filing the damn thing and the comp replacement lifters that I have are notorious for being a POS lifter which I didnt know at the time. None of which are my fault just shitty manufacturing.

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I'm with you. I think I paid $4.50, each bolt. Obviously, the bolt is strong and can last. You could probably say the same for the head bolts, also TTY, but why would you try to save the money when it is a crucial element in doing it the "right" way?

 

All I was saying is that if it is not tightened to the spec it should be, all the loctite you can put in isn't going to keep it on. It will walk. Even re-using the bolt is not all that bad as long as you get it tightened to spec. I know of others that have done it and have no issues at all.

 

On the other hand, if you're using loctite in lieu of buying a new bolt that is just sad. If the bolt is going to hold, it's going to hold, new or old.

 

Forget the loctite, get the new bolt, stretch it like the procedure says to. If you want to, get the ARP crank bolt and re-use it as often as you like.

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Loc tite is just on there for a little added security. Was just stating a new crank pulley bolt is not necessary although recommended. My buddies truck had a blower on pushing 13#s of boost if there was any app it should fail on it would be that one but the bolt didnt walk out on his with some loc tite on it thus I say its not necessary and havent changed mine. For the 3.80 it costs why not Im just lazy and didnt feel like driving to the dealer then pulling the clutch fan and all that to put a new bolt in.

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