2003SilvSS Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 AC has worked flawless since they replaced that switch. I wish it hadn't costed me 153$. The guys at the shop put almost 30 miles on it while trying to get it to quit as well. That burned up about 1/4 tank, and they didn't put any back in. Oh well, at least my AC works now. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haynss Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 hmmm i might have to check that switch as well...mine is cold when moving but a little humid when i come to a stop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 I pm'ed Zippy and he said it's the switch right on the condenser. That should be the one I took a picture of here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 As easy as the switch itself looks to be to replace, don't forget you'll still have to discharge/charge the system to get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 ....., don't forget you'll still have to discharge/charge the system to get it done. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just do it really fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersub Posted June 21, 2006 Report Share Posted June 21, 2006 my friends truck did same thing,worked when it wanted to found that the ambient air temp sensor was bad.the one located behind grille,he did notice bad temp readings in the rear view mirror when it did it,check w zippy on that one too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southsidemex23 Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Correct me if im wrong, but isn't the picture you took the dryer? the condenser is up front by the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Correct me if im wrong, but isn't the picture you took the dryer? the condenser is up front by the radiator. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oops! You're right! I'll go look to see if there's a pressure switch on the condenser too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 I don't see any switch on the condenser itself, so it's gotta be the one on the drier. 2003SilvSS, can you confirm that this part "looks new" on your truck? LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2003SilvSS Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'll take a look today either at lunch or when I get home from work. I was thinking about having to remove the 134A to replace the switch. If you have the gauges or know of someone who has a set of gauges, it would still be cheaper to let discharge the system and refill it. I haven't bought any 134A for a while, but it's like 5 bucks a can I think. It surely wouldn't take more than 4 cans and if you put a can of oil in it, you're still looking at only 30 bucks. Is it illegal to just let the refrigerant out into the air? If that was the case, ur system could magically spring a bad leak and oops... Just thinking. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SS_bnoon_SS Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 I'll take a look today either at lunch or when I get home from work. I was thinking about having to remove the 134A to replace the switch. If you have the gauges or know of someone who has a set of gauges, it would still be cheaper to let discharge the system and refill it. I haven't bought any 134A for a while, but it's like 5 bucks a can I think. It surely wouldn't take more than 4 cans and if you put a can of oil in it, you're still looking at only 30 bucks. Is it illegal to just let the refrigerant out into the air? If that was the case, ur system could magically spring a bad leak and oops... Just thinking. Brian <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Why... no, you couldn't let it do that... The newer stuff is a lot better for mother nature than the old Ozone depleting stuff was. Some of the cans even come with pressure gauges right on them, though they aren't as accurate as the *real* gauges are... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PladdPezzPunk Posted June 23, 2006 Report Share Posted June 23, 2006 if you don't want any real problems have it professionally evacuated and recharged. when you take the switch out, the oil in the system will suck in all the humidity and create water in the ac system. this will make problems with cooling as well as corosion. you should evacuate the system for about 1 hour after opening it up to properly remove the moisture. Just be careful about what shops you go to. what i do at my shop, is i have two ac machines. one i use only for sucking down systems, the second i use for charging. reason is you never know what your actually taking out of other peoples car (sealant, r12, autozone additives for "colder ac" ect.) you don't want any of these in your system, the do more harm than good. R-134a has come down in price, there is no reason that the system shoulden't be charged with brand new (not recycled) refridgerant. Also don't check ac systems with gauges, its not accurate. air in the system will make pressure. Use temperatures of the high and low side using an infared thermometer. this will let you see what is reall in the system and how it's working. second, i have found that 90 percent of chevy and gmc trucks come factory filled about 3/4 of their total capicity right out of the factory. another problem is the design of the condensor dosen't allow enough air to be sucked through when at idle. the fan does a nice job pulling air through the radiator but not enough to pull air through the condensor. E fans help big time with this. hope this info helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccgoodwrench Posted June 26, 2006 Report Share Posted June 26, 2006 I beleive theirs a sharader valve behind the switch to prevent any freon escaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Posted June 28, 2006 Report Share Posted June 28, 2006 This sounds eerily familiar to the problem I had with the blower control module. Same symptoms as discussed until the night it wouldn't shut off. Sam eline as someone else discussed here, ther was a burnt out resistor on the BCM. My dealer replaced the BCM and it worked fine...until 2 weeks later the problem discussed in the other AC thread happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSAlaska Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Mine is blowing hot as hell all the time. Is that low R-134? Should I just add some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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